QT Process Advice

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Hey everyone,

About to start qting 4 fish in my 10 gallon setup, pink streaked wrasse, talbot damsel, yellow and green clown goby.

I've noticed a couple points of concern, the talbot damsel has a hard time eating, seems to have an appetite, but spits out the majority of food he tries to eat. Ive tried brine, mysis, pellets, with entice & garlic. In addition he's started rubbing himself against some of the pvc pipes today.

The green clown goby has been thin and lethargic since I got him last week. Over time he's gotten better, but regardless of how much he eats he doesnt gain much weight.

Based on the above would it be better that start with 30 days of copper, or with prazipro for the recommended 3 doses.

TIA
 

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It depends. If the fish don't have visible symptoms of white specs or film on them, maybe start with the prazi in this case.
 
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It depends. If the fish don't have visible symptoms of white specs or film on them, maybe start with the prazi in this case.
No "visible" symptoms beyond what was described. Thats what I was considering, does that change anything in the qt process doing prazi first? Any downsides?
 

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No "visible" symptoms beyond what was described. Thats what I was considering, does that change anything in the qt process doing prazi first? Any downsides?

I think the downside is that the things copper treats are more concerning in terms of potential mortalities (i.e. velvet)
 

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Just added the prazipro, the damsel is now rubbing his gills repeatedly. Is this confirmation of flukes?

It can be a symptom. The if the gill rubbing doesn't stop tomorrow then it might be something else. Prazi causes the flukes the dislodge and they fall off and die from a lack of host. 3 doses is the safest way to go forward but many people do 2.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Hey everyone,

About to start qting 4 fish in my 10 gallon setup, pink streaked wrasse, talbot damsel, yellow and green clown goby.

I've noticed a couple points of concern, the talbot damsel has a hard time eating, seems to have an appetite, but spits out the majority of food he tries to eat. Ive tried brine, mysis, pellets, with entice & garlic. In addition he's started rubbing himself against some of the pvc pipes today.

The green clown goby has been thin and lethargic since I got him last week. Over time he's gotten better, but regardless of how much he eats he doesnt gain much weight.

Based on the above would it be better that start with 30 days of copper, or with prazipro for the recommended 3 doses.

TIA

A damsel that spits food out is pretty odd. Could it be that it is just eaten enough and then is spitting food out?
A ten gallon is pretty small to run these fish in, unless they are very small also. Just monitor the ammonia level closely and ensure that there is good aeration.

The clown goby is a separate issue - can you get access to live baby brine shrimp? This species can be an issue, even given how common they are in the pet trade. Here is the scenario - they are very low cost fish. The divers that catch them earn maybe 3 cents per fish. This species is "cryptic" it hides in the branches of coral. There is no way that a diver could catch these in a net at 3 cents each and make any sort of a living. So - the exporters give the divers cyanide that is then mixed in water and sprayed into the coral, driving all the gobies out to be caught. Trouble is, the cyanide creates fatal damage in a good portion of the fish (40 to 60%). Those fish get sold, but they don't eat and then die. It is illegal, but has been going on since the 1960's.

Since you've already added the Prazi, I would run the copper concurrently, assuming you are using coppersafe or copper power.

Jay
 
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A damsel that spits food out is pretty odd. Could it be that it is just eaten enough and then is spitting food out?
A ten gallon is pretty small to run these fish in, unless they are very small also. Just monitor the ammonia level closely and ensure that there is good aeration.

The clown goby is a separate issue - can you get access to live baby brine shrimp? This species can be an issue, even given how common they are in the pet trade. Here is the scenario - they are very low cost fish. The divers that catch them earn maybe 3 cents per fish. This species is "cryptic" it hides in the branches of coral. There is no way that a diver could catch these in a net at 3 cents each and make any sort of a living. So - the exporters give the divers cyanide that is then mixed in water and sprayed into the coral, driving all the gobies out to be caught. Trouble is, the cyanide creates fatal damage in a good portion of the fish (40 to 60%). Those fish get sold, but they don't eat and then die. It is illegal, but has been going on since the 1960's.

Since you've already added the Prazi, I would run the copper concurrently, assuming you are using coppersafe or copper power.

Jay
Good Afternoon Jay,

The pink streaked wrasse is very small, and both clown gobys are in breader boxes which helps keep the activity down. I figured this combined with an oversized HOB and supplemental airstone should make it safe.

The damsel would spit out any food it tried to eat from the start, so it wasn't a question of not being hungry or having eatin too much. After dosing prazipro last night it seems to have better success actually swallowing some of the food. I cant imagine size is the issue as both clown gobys and the much smaller wrasse have no issues eating the same things.

I'm not aware of anywhere where I could get some sort of live food. The clown goby thats having issues is eating, its just a matter of his stomach always looking a little sunken. When I had originally gotten him I assumed he wouldn't make it past the first day, he hardly moved and was incredibly thin. The other clown goby is happy as can be and swims about all day in his box.

I was hesitant to dose copper and prazi, as prazi states not to be used with other medications. Is copper not considered a medication?

TIA
 

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Good Afternoon Jay,

The pink streaked wrasse is very small, and both clown gobys are in breader boxes which helps keep the activity down. I figured this combined with an oversized HOB and supplemental airstone should make it safe.

The damsel would spit out any food it tried to eat from the start, so it wasn't a question of not being hungry or having eatin too much. After dosing prazipro last night it seems to have better success actually swallowing some of the food. I cant imagine size is the issue as both clown gobys and the much smaller wrasse have no issues eating the same things.

I'm not aware of anywhere where I could get some sort of live food. The clown goby thats having issues is eating, its just a matter of his stomach always looking a little sunken. When I had originally gotten him I assumed he wouldn't make it past the first day, he hardly moved and was incredibly thin. The other clown goby is happy as can be and swims about all day in his box.

I was hesitant to dose copper and prazi, as prazi states not to be used with other medications. Is copper not considered a medication?

TIA

Prazi can be dosed with coppersafe. I prefer to dose them sequentially, copper first, but in some cases you need to run them at the same time.

Jay
 
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Hey everyone,

Following up on this thread, it looks like either the combination of copper + prazi, or adding entice + garlic guard to the food has drastically helped the damsel eat.

However, the other issue of rubbing his gill areas on surfaces still remains. In addition, I have noticed that hes constantly opening and closing his mouth, and has dark patches on both gills, along with 1 on his lower abdomen. Not sure if thats the damsels typical color pattern, or something else.

20231125_112736.jpg 20231125_113143.jpg 20231125_113201.jpg
 

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Hey everyone,

Following up on this thread, it looks like either the combination of copper + prazi, or adding entice + garlic guard to the food has drastically helped the damsel eat.

However, the other issue of rubbing his gill areas on surfaces still remains. In addition, I have noticed that hes constantly opening and closing his mouth, and has dark patches on both gills, along with 1 on his lower abdomen. Not sure if thats the damsels typical color pattern, or something else.

20231125_112736.jpg 20231125_113143.jpg 20231125_113201.jpg
What is your prazi dosing schedule going to be? You should at least do a second dose 8 days after the first.
Jay
 
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What is your prazi dosing schedule going to be? You should at least do a second dose 8 days after the first.
Jay
Hey Jay,

I was going to do a total of 3 doses, the next being Thursday, and Friday the following week after that one. Since im dosing copper and prazi at the same time, will the qt be complete after 30 days?
 

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Hey Jay,

I was going to do a total of 3 doses, the next being Thursday, and Friday the following week after that one. Since im dosing copper and prazi at the same time, will the qt be complete after 30 days?

I would still give the fish 14 days of no meds at the end of the 30 days, just to ensure something doesn't crop up.

Jay
 
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Hey all,

Just administered the second dose of prazipro last night. Woke up this morning and the tank was very cloudy. HOB filter and airstone are working properly so its not a flow issue. Confirmed 0 Ammonia as well. Is this normal, any action needed on my part?
 

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Hey all,

Just administered the second dose of prazipro last night. Woke up this morning and the tank was very cloudy. HOB filter and airstone are working properly so its not a flow issue. Confirmed 0 Ammonia as well. Is this normal, any action needed on my part?

The solvent used in Prazipro grows heterotrophic bacteria which can cause cloudy water. As long as the aeration is good, it should not be an issue. You can change water 36 hours after the second dose.

Jay
 
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The solvent used in Prazipro grows heterotrophic bacteria which can cause cloudy water. As long as the aeration is good, it should not be an issue. You can change water 36 hours after the second dose.

Jay
Ill keep an eye on it, but seems good so far. Is a water change required?
 

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I like to do them if the tank has corals in it, helps with nutrient unloading.

Jay
Following up on this thread, I've just completed the 30 day medication schedule, and performed a 50% water change 2 days in a row to rid the tank of the majority of copper and prazi. Since I haven't seen any symptoms of concern in over 25 days, would it be fairly safe to transfer to my DT over the next couple of days, vs 14 days of observation? I'm off of work for the rest of the week, and would like to be able to observe the fish in their new habitat and make sure theirs no compatability issues, not to mention keeping them in QT is driving them and myself insane.
TIA
 

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Following up on this thread, I've just completed the 30 day medication schedule, and performed a 50% water change 2 days in a row to rid the tank of the majority of copper and prazi. Since I haven't seen any symptoms of concern in over 25 days, would it be fairly safe to transfer to my DT over the next couple of days, vs 14 days of observation? I'm off of work for the rest of the week, and would like to be able to observe the fish in their new habitat and make sure theirs no compatability issues, not to mention keeping them in QT is driving them and myself insane.
TIA

That makes sense since you will be home, but the 14 days quarantine observation is used to try and catch anything that might be missed by the process.

Jay
 

Welcoming coral to your home!!! How do you add coral to your tank?

  • Move the coral from the bag and place it directly into the display tank.

    Votes: 14 10.5%
  • Dip process before placing the coral into the display tank.

    Votes: 86 64.7%
  • Acclimate before placing the coral into the display tank.

    Votes: 18 13.5%
  • Move the coral from the bag and place it directly into the quarantine tank.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Dip process before placing the coral into the quarantine tank.

    Votes: 8 6.0%
  • Acclimate before placing the coral into the quarantine tank.

    Votes: 3 2.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 3.0%
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