Question about Triton test results

[Larry L]

Hi -

I just got back my first set of water test results, and had some questions about how to interpret them. Everything was green with the exception of the following:

Analysis Setpoint
------------- -------------
Al 123.10 µg/l 2.00 µg/l
Li 392.90 µg/l 200.00 µg/l
V 7.62 µg/l 1.20 µg/l
I 0.00 µg/l 60.00 µg/l
Si 329.30 µg/l 100.00 µg/l

1) I'm really surprised by the high aluminum, I have never used any of the phosphate removers that I see people typically blaming for leaching aluminum. Any ideas for where that might be coming from, or how to fix it? It seems *really* high.

2) Should I do anything about the other numbers that are high?

3) It looks like I should be dosing some iodine, right?

4) I took this sample at the same time that I did all of my usual tests using test kits. All of the things that I normally test for at home came back with higher values from the Triton test than the results I got using test kits. E.g. Ca 460 vs 420 with a Salifert kit, Mg 1520 vs 1370 with a Salifert kit, K 389 vs <320 with a Salifert kit, PO4 0.022 vs 0 with a Salifert kit. Is that unusual? Are the differences within margin of error for the test kits?


Thanks!
Larry

 

[ksfulk]

High Aluminum has been attributed to leeching from certain ceramic media (MarinePure blocks, I believe)
High Lithium usually comes from another additive, most commonly from Magnesium suppliment Kent Tech-M
Vandium, I dont believe there is any issue with.
Some people dosing Iodine, but others (including Randy Homles-Farley) dont believe its necessary
Silicon can be elevated from sand or other additives, but unless you are seeing a lot of diatoms or any other attributable issues, again, I dont think its worth worrying about.

1.) I believe Aluminum can be removed by using GFO, which in turn will elevate Fe levels, which is why its suggested that you alternate phosphate removers.
2.) Other than suspectedly killing byropsis, I dont believe theres anything that high Li will do to the tank
3.) As I said above, some people dose, others dont. Upto you really.
4.) Some of it will be accuracy on the testing kits part, some is attributable to the accuracy of the Triton testing, those combined could lead to your number discrepency. My numbers are usually close, but not exact from my own kits to the Triton test.

Thats my two cents

 

[twilliard]

Hi Larry
Are you using triton pure to help with the elevated numbers?

 

[Larry L]

Hi Larry
Are you using triton pure to help with the elevated numbers?

Hi Todd - I'm not using anything yet, have just been having trouble keeping LPS and SPS alive and hoped the water tests would show something I was not yet aware of.

 

[Larry L]

High Aluminum has been attributed to leeching from certain ceramic media (MarinePure blocks, I believe)

Interesting, I *do* have a MarinePure block in my sump... Thanks for all the other advice too.

 

[twilliard]

Hi Todd - I'm not using anything yet, have just been having trouble keeping LPS and SPS alive and hoped the water tests would show something I was not yet aware of.

What is your no3 at?
I wish triton would test for that!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I don't see anything in those values that would clearly keep corals from thriving, except possibly the aluminum. In my tests, 500 ppb closed up soft corals, but 50 ppb did not. Those were short term tests.

Many people have that level of lithium, including me. It is not a concern, IMO.

I do not consider iodine important, but I've never seen anyone with 0.00, even in my tank where I haven't dosed it for 10 years (my Triton test said 22 ug/L). It might be easy enough to add a little supplementary iodide and see if that helps.

The silicon should only promote diatoms and sponges and not cause any other issues. I dose to nearly your level, then let it decline.

Vanadium might be an issue. Any metal parts anywhere in the system (hose clamps, for example), or any corroded fixtures above the tank?

 

[GainesvilleReef]

Interesting, I *do* have a MarinePure block in my sump... Thanks for all the other advice too.

I had two in my sump and my Al was over 90. The only thing that seemed to have a problem was a green toadstool leather that stayed closed all the time. Took out the blocks and the Al went away after many water changes and the leather stays open almost all the time as you would expect.