Questions about XR15 Pros & SPS - par, night light, spectrum, etc

[wdavid]

So I have 2 XR15 pros hanging over my red sea reefer 350 (47l * 20w * 21h) using their RMS arms. I have been trying to keep SPS but having a very hard time. Alkalinity is stable around 7.8~7.9 and calcium around 435. Nitrates are 1~2 and phosphates are 0.05.

1. Par - I measured PAR at about 206 under the light where the highest SPS is being kept at the moment with as low as 50 between the two lights about half way down the tank, and about 70~100 par on the sand bed. What PAR are fellow SPS keepers keeping their tank at and do you consider what I have decent? Should I go higher/lower/add new fixtures?

2. Night Light - I saw ecotech has a feature where if you leave the lights on at low % overnight they increase/reduce the light output based on the moon phases. Does anyone use this and what light %s do you run at? Is this even a good idea to run a light overnight?

3. Spectrum - I currently use the AB+ profile with more whites turned on to make it easier on the eyes. I was wondering what other profiles people use to light their tank as a reference. Or what people recommended as well.

I would also appreciate any sort of advice for lighting with LEDs in general, thanks in advanced.

 

[Daniel Waters]

So I have 2 XR15 pros hanging over my red sea reefer 350 (47l * 20w * 21h) using their RMS arms. I have been trying to keep SPS but having a very hard time. Alkalinity is stable around 7.8~7.9 and calcium around 435. Nitrates are 1~2 and phosphates are 0.05.

1. Par - I measured PAR at about 206 under the light where the highest SPS is being kept at the moment with as low as 50 between the two lights about half way down the tank, and about 70~100 par on the sand bed. What PAR are fellow SPS keepers keeping their tank at and do you consider what I have decent? Should I go higher/lower/add new fixtures?

2. Night Light - I saw ecotech has a feature where if you leave the lights on at low % overnight they increase/reduce the light output based on the moon phases. Does anyone use this and what light %s do you run at? Is this even a good idea to run a light overnight?

3. Spectrum - I currently use the AB+ profile with more whites turned on to make it easier on the eyes. I was wondering what other profiles people use to light their tank as a reference. Or what people recommended as well.

I would also appreciate any sort of advice for lighting with LEDs in general, thanks in advanced.

1. With a 47" tank length, you most likely need 3 XR15 pros. SPS have wide ranges of par values that might be appropriate. A montipora might not need near the light that some acropora will need for example. In general, I think a target par value of 200+ for wherever you are placing SPS is a decent guideline.

2. Forget the night light.

3. AB+ is a very popular program and probably the most used by Radion users if I were guessing. When you say you turn your whites up higher, be careful that you do not turn your whites up too much, as a lot of people report this creating issues with their corals. I'd say keep the white channels at 35% or lower (AB+ program has them at 24%). Or just be sure you acclimate your corals accordingly if you do a big change in the white color channel (i.e. if you change the whites from 24% to 50% for example, you may want to decrease the overall intensity and bring it up over several days).

General advice on LED's

• don't be tempted to screw around with the colors (spectrum) all the time. Use a preset program like you are using (a few tweaks are fine) and leave it alone
• photo period: 8 to 12 hour total photo period with a ramp up and down period, with maybe a 4 to 6 hour peak intensity period is pretty typical and should serve you fine
• you can't gauge LED intensity by using your eyes, so don't be tempted to crank the intensity up because you don't think the lights are bright enough- you don't have to run your lights at 100% intensity either- more is not necessarily better
• I think the diffusers are a a great option to look into with the radions.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[wdavid]

1. With a 47" tank length, you most likely need 3 XR15 pros. SPS have wide ranges of par values that might be appropriate. A montipora might not need near the light that some acropora will need for example. In general, I think a target par value of 200+ for wherever you are placing SPS is a decent guideline.

2. Forget the night light.

3. AB+ is a very popular program and probably the most used by Radion users if I were guessing. When you say you turn your whites up higher, be careful that you do not turn your whites up too much, as a lot of people report this creating issues with their corals. I'd say keep the white channels at 35% or lower (AB+ program has them at 24%). Or just be sure you acclimate your corals accordingly if you do a big change in the white color channel (i.e. if you change the whites from 24% to 50% for example, you may want to decrease the overall intensity and bring it up over several days).

General advice on LED's

• don't be tempted to screw around with the colors (spectrum) all the time. Use a preset program like you are using (a few tweaks are fine) and leave it alone
• photo period: 8 to 12 hour total photo period with a ramp up and down period, with maybe a 4 to 6 hour peak intensity period is pretty typical and should serve you fine
• you can't gauge LED intensity by using your eyes, so don't be tempted to crank the intensity up because you don't think the lights are bright enough- you don't have to run your lights at 100% intensity either- more is not necessarily better
• I think the diffusers are a a great option to look into with the radions.

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the input. The 3rd LED fixture would be for a more even light spread, not for higher par right? I'm basically debating between that or a T5 hybrid fixture.

 

[jda]

While I am no fan of any LED for acropora, you have not even giving these a chance. A pair of XR30s over each 24" section is not out of the range for some folks and a single xr15 is not even close to enough. You should at least have double what you have, if not more. The people that have the best tanks with Radions have as many watts in Radions as they did in MH or T5s, raised up and put near full power - Dr. Joshi is one of these, but he has more Radion watts than he did Metal Halide watts to cover the same tank.

Most people still end up using their Radions to supplement some T5s - they see it the other way around at first, but then it dawns on them about what is happening.

About PAR... with an LED, you want your low areas to be in the 150-200 range and the highs about 350-400. You might need diffusers for this since point-source LEDs are really bad with hot spots. With T5 or MH, you can take 50 off of each of these readings since they have spectrum that a PAR meter cannot read.

All of that being said, if you have a newer tank, then you just might need more time. You should at least have SPS living in the higher light areas even if they cannot in the lower light.

 

[wdavid]

. A pair of XR30s over each 24" section is not out of the range for some folks and a single xr15 is not even close to enough.

Ha, it may be in range of some folks but it's definitely out of range for my wallet. I do think I will go with the hybrid T5-LED fixture instead since it's far more cost effective up front, thanks for the suggestions

 

[jda]

I always recommend T5s over more LEDs for the better spectrum and also the better coverage. Also, I feel that a hybrid is a gateway drug to figuring out how much better T5s actually can be since some folks need time to see it.

I am not a LED fan for SPS and especially acropora (fine for a mixed reef). Take this all of what I am saying for what it is worth knowing where I am coming from, which might not be much. Other people's opinions might mean more to you.

 

[Daniel Waters]

Thanks for the input. The 3rd LED fixture would be for a more even light spread, not for higher par right? I'm basically debating between that or a T5 hybrid fixture.

The third fixture recommendation was based on several things.

• You mentioned wanting to keep SPS. I do not believe you have adequate par in most of your tank based on just two XR15 pros (and based on the par ranges you gave).
• With single puck style LEDs like an XR15, I think you really need one for every 12" - 18" of tank width. You have approximately a 48" tank, so I would recommend a minimum of 3 fixtures for SPS (4 would be better).
• T5s will be a fine addition. T5s with 3 XR15 would probably be perfect. I think T5s do great with the radions. They help to reduce the color separation (disco ball effect) and help to mute the shimmer a bit. However, I know and have seen plenty of successful sps tanks running just radions (but typically two or more xr30 pros on a tank your size).

 

[Wilsonfeliz]

i'm currently running a hybrid T5 + chinese LED fixture so far so good. SPS growing like weed. I think your xr15 will do better than my chinese, and more if you add the T5.

 

[wdavid]

i'm currently running a hybrid T5 + chinese LED fixture so far so good. SPS growing like weed. I think your xr15 will do better than my chinese, and more if you add the T5.

What t5 fixture are you using? I'm considering using the aquatic life fixture

 

[Norcalreef]

I have a 44” tank with the aquatic life hybrid 1xr30 g4 pro and 2 xr15 g4 pro. Light spread is fantastic. I recently added the 2 xr15s and it made a huge difference.

 

[wdavid]

How high are the lights mounted and what intensity/progran do you run the LEDs at?

 

[Norcalreef]

How high are the lights mounted and what intensity/progran do you run the LEDs at?

They’re 14” right. I’m planning to lower back down to 12 then lower intensity of radions, just haven’t had the chance. I had raided them up when I only had the xr30 to get spread. I am running the same ab+ on all lights. Right now the xr30 is at 45% max and the xr15 are at 25%.
I have not had a chance to check par since adding the xr15 since the seneye is silly and won’t work with my Mac and I hate turning on my desktop. Before I added the xr15 I had the xr30 at 51% and was getting about 350 at the top corals. I just had to move a Pink Floyd from the top as it was losing color I believe from to much light. Sc orange passion and vivids hot lava are loving the higher light. I am going to shoot for about 450 up top and 300-350 to the sides.

 

[waxhawreefer]

I have a 425xl with 3 xr15’s and aquatic T5 fixture, 9” from the water, 70% max intensity, running the ab+ that makes it only 44% of real intensity, I started at 30% and went up 5% weekly, no par readings, just watching ur corals to find the sweet spot, only one small encrusted frag has some minor bleaching all others doing better, only the strong can survive! I did have two a360we on it first, ran them at 85% mostly blue, honestly not much of a difference in results only my wallet, I do like the true dusk and dawn effect, if u go radion u will definitely need a reef link, added expense, my first one was a piece of junk, had to get it replaced also an mp40 was also junk first time around, funny how ecotech is the most expensive equipment and still has problems, I had four Jebao powerheads for years no troubles!

 

[wdavid]

Can I get some opinions or recommendations on mounting the fixture? I'd prefer to use a stand if possible but not sure if it's okay due to the weight. How did you mount the light?

Also do I need to buy the ceiling hook or whatever myself or does the aquatic life fixture have one?

Thanks in advanced.

 

[waxhawreefer]

Can I get some opinions or recommendations on mounting the fixture? I'd prefer to use a stand if possible but not sure if it's okay due to the weight. How did you mount the light?

Also do I need to buy the ceiling hook or whatever myself or does the aquatic life fixture have one?

Thanks in advanced.

I mounted mine using my Kessil mounts that I used for my 360’s, yes they are on the glass, 1/2” glass is strong as crap, I would have mounted them with the same mounts but attached to the stand , but couldn’t do it after the fact, not a fan of any ceiling mounts unless u hit studs, don’t trust sheet rock!! Yes it’s got some weight, but I’m fine with it, but that’s just me!!

 

[wdavid]

I mounted mine using my Kessil mounts that I used for my 360’s, yes they are on the glass, 1/2” glass is strong as crap, I would have mounted them with the same mounts but attached to the stand , but couldn’t do it after the fact, not a fan of any ceiling mounts unless u hit studs, don’t trust sheet rock!! Yes it’s got some weight, but I’m fine with it, but that’s just me!!

How long have you had it like that? I'm scared of putting it directly on the glass tbh.

 

[rob safron]

I have 4 XR30 Pro over a 72”. Par ranges 200 to 500. I don’t think you have near enough light for good SPS growth. FYI, I run lights with whites at 100% for half the day. Great growth and color.

 

[wdavid]

I have 4 XR30 Pro over a 72”. Par ranges 200 to 500. I don’t think you have near enough light for good SPS growth. FYI, I run lights with whites at 100% for half the day. Great growth and color.

I have it around 200 with 65% intensity because a euphyllia I have on the sandbed closed if I increase it above that. I might try to sell it and up the light over time with the acclimation mode

 

[waxhawreefer]

How long have you had it like that? I'm scared of putting it directly on the glass tbh.

I had this mounted for almost a year, but if I could I would mount those brackets to my stand, they have a kit for that installation, not sure if some one was talking about my lighting not being able to grow sps, I think it’s just fine, not an expert, but I go to Florida every year and attend local frag swaps, and seriously talk to vendors, every one is always hung up on lighting and par when flow is the most important thing, if u ever stuck ur hand in some of those tanks in their shop , you’ll know what I mean!