re-plumbing tank

mikem.dvm

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I bought a 210 bowfront tank 3 years ago. The LFS set it up and in hindsight I wish I had done the plumbing myself. ITs running an no major issues right now.

I am considering re-plumbing the sump to include a manifold for GFO/ Carbon, UV sterilizer, and CA reactor instead of multiple pumps. Is this possible to do in an established running tank? How long do I have with the tank not running though sump/ protein skimmer and will the PVC solvents and primers affect the tank since it will be hooked back up within hours of gluing the PVC. I plan to remove all the pluming that was done and start with new bulkheads and all new pipe. They did a very basic plumbing job and has limited what I can add on to the tank.

Thanks!
 

piranhaman00

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I always like to give 24 hrs for pvc glue, you don’t need primer. However there are many reports of people firing up pumps immediately with no issue.

Can you do it in sections somehow?
 

ZoWhat

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I always like to give 24 hrs for pvc glue, you don’t need primer.
You absolutely need to use both parts of the pvc glue kit. The primer/dye part sets off a chemical reaction where the two pvc parts melt into each other. If you dont use the primer, the glue-only joint will eventually
B U S T

Direct off Google

20210328_002243.jpg


.
 

Zakery Murray

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Any chance you have a second tank, or big storage bucket you can put all your livestock in while your replumb it with a wavemaker and your lights for coral? I just don't like the chance of water and chemicals that aren't supposed to be in the tank touching.
 

mdb_talon

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I am not saying i recommend it really, but i have done plumbing with primer/glue and restarted tanks within 12 hours and never seen an ill effect. No scientific reason for 12 hours. I always make sure i put a heater in the DT and keep wavemakers going. I would wait longer but without my skimmer(hooked up to outside air) my ph drops about .3(both low and high values) and i dont like that.
 

piranhaman00

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You absolutely need to use both parts of the pvc glue kit. The primer/dye part sets off a chemical reaction where the two pvc parts melt into each other. If you dont use the primer, the glue-only joint will eventually
B U S T

Direct off Google
LOL! Direct from google so it must be right. For us reefers primer is not necessary, no pressure and very benign conditions
I’ve never used primer no issues :)

Discussion

 
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ZoWhat

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Agreed there is not any psi worth talking about inside a reef pvc pipe.. Problem is glue-only deteriorates.

Friend of mine didn't use primer and 3 years later developed small leaks bc the bound was simply glued and the glue deteriorated

The person above who didn't use a primer is just trying to validate their decision.

Why would you do a project halfxxxed?
 

DaneGer21

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Agreed there is not any psi worth talking about inside a reef pvc pipe.. Problem is glue-only deteriorates.

Like mentioned above, I just know there’s a chemical reaction that occurs and more or less melts the two pieces together, not just a basic glue bonded joint. And yes the reason is for pressure rated lines, but that’s how pvc is PROPERLY bonded.
 

Saltyreef

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I always use primer.
mainly to clean the ink and oil/dirt off my glue joint.
But......its only necissary where code requires.

In my professional experience, pvc glue softens up pvc just fine by itself to form a "chemical bond" for our reefing applications.
 

ZoWhat

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Basically boils down to this....

If you're ok with a pvc joint that is glued-only that can be fairly easily broken apart by rocking the two pieces back n forth....go for it.

I personally want an unbreakable bond that I don't have to worry about in the back of my mind

....bc Murphys Law is that a tank leak always happens while you're on vacation 1000 miles away from the situation


.
 
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Auquanut

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Back to the original question. With sufficient water movement, oxygenation, and stable temp, you can maintain the DT for days if not longer with the sump offline. I would put a heater in the tank, run your power heads and add an air stone (just to be on the safe side). I also wouldn't feed while the sump is shut down to reduce the amount of NO3/PO4 build up. That way, you can allow enough time for the glue (with or without primer) to set for the recommended period of time.

P.S. I would use the primer. I'm just cautious like that. ;)
 

piranhaman00

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Pvc glue melts the pvc and bonds it together without primer, it’s not just glued together. Primer helps the reaction and bonds it much better.

Primer makes a better stronger bond absolutely, but it’s not necessary for non pressure pvc.
 

piranhaman00

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Basically boils down to this....

If you're ok with a pvc joint that is glued-only that can be fairly easily broken apart by rocking the two pieces back n forth....go for it.

I personally want an unbreakable bond that I don't have to worry about in the back of my mind

....bc Murphys Law is that a tank leak always happens while you're on vacation 1000 miles away from the situation


.

If you can break a pvc bond by shaking it you are doing something wrong haha
 

sharpimage

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Now is a good time to drain the sump, pull it all ojt and give it a good cleaning. Tank will be fine e for days with just powerheads. Make sure you are getting surface agitation for o2 exchange. Take your time. There is no need to rush.
And for what it is worth, on new pvc I dont bother priming and use clear glue. Never had a leak
 

Justdrew

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Red hot blue pvc glue. No primer needed for the pressures we are running. States right on the can. Cures in 30 minutes. I just used it last week and fired my tank up after 30 minutes. No issues.
 

theMeat

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Could use clear primer, clear pvc cleaner, or even a scotch pad to prep surface for glue but a good step to take
 

mike550

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I bought a 210 bowfront tank 3 years ago. The LFS set it up and in hindsight I wish I had done the plumbing myself. ITs running an no major issues right now.

I am considering re-plumbing the sump to include a manifold for GFO/ Carbon, UV sterilizer, and CA reactor instead of multiple pumps. Is this possible to do in an established running tank? How long do I have with the tank not running though sump/ protein skimmer and will the PVC solvents and primers affect the tank since it will be hooked back up within hours of gluing the PVC. I plan to remove all the pluming that was done and start with new bulkheads and all new pipe. They did a very basic plumbing job and has limited what I can add on to the tank.

Thanks!
Wow. You’re about 18 months ahead of me on this so please keep us posted. Here are my limited thoughts.

First, I agree with @Auquanut if you can keep flow, lighting, and oxygen levels going I think you should be good. Think about how livestock can get shipped across country in bags. So short of a stagnant tank without temp control you’re already ahead. Interesting point about not feeding. Hadn’t thought about that.

Second, I think that the more you can prefab sections the better off you will be. I’m assuming you’ll be putting bulkheads somewhere between the sump and the DT for your connections. Consider short lengths of flexible PVC as well. It cuts down in vibration and you have more leeway for your plumbing.

Finally, you’ll need fresh new saltwater to replace / fill your new sump. So have that plus more on hand. I‘m not a plumbing expert by any means but I think this could be done in 5-7 hours (?). Easy for me to say since I have very little idea of what you want to do.

I would definitely use primer and solvent.

Good luck!
 
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