Reef Tank PH - Additives

Centurio

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Randy -- Been at this for about a decade now, and I have an issue I can't solve easily. I have always (for the most part) ignored PH in my tanks because they always stayed in acceptable range, and growth had always been good in multiple tanks.

About eighteen months because of health issues with a family member I had to move us to a single story much smaller house nearby some care facilities. I dropped down to one largish tank (250g), and prepared for my usual SPS dominant tank. Well after 18 months running I'm stymied. Because the house is about 1400 sq ft. and there's a plethora of dogs, and adult humans I have been unable to keep the PH at a decent level. I range from 7.4-7.7. All other parameters are stable using the Triton Method (which I used successfully for years.)

The PH doesn't budge much over 7.75 at peak even with windows and doors open. The tank is on an inside wall so I cannot run a line outside to the skimmer. I have tried for months to increase the PH using three different C02 scrubber sizes, including the double jumbo from BRS -- all unsuccessful as a long-term solution. I see some movement for a few days, but that's it.

I have a Kalkwasser reactor, but frankly no more room under the tank to really fit one. So -- can I dose a PH booster if I adjust the Triton dosing down to whatever is necessary? Is there a long-term downside to a chemical solution in this case?
 

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can I dose a PH booster if I adjust the Triton dosing down to whatever is necessary? Is there a long-term downside to a chemical solution in this case?

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Those pH's sound pretty extreme. Like maybe really hard to acheive in an aragonite buffered system?

The table in this thread would imply if your alk is 8dKH, then you'd have something in the 3000+ ppm of CO2 in equilibrium with the tank water to get a pH under 7.5
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/co2sys-marine-tank-table-for-ph-dkh-co2.786401/

I'd check pH calibration to decide what to do next.
I've checked and rechecked calibration, and bought a new probe just in case and calibrated it.
 

taricha

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I've checked and rechecked calibration, and bought a new probe just in case and calibrated it.
One more sanity check to make sure there really is super high CO2, take a cup of tank water and bubble it with an air stone outside for an hour or so. If the pH rises to what would be normal for your alkalinity, (mid or low 8's I'd guess), then you really do have a concerningly high CO2 level in that space.
 
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One more sanity check to make sure there really is super high CO2, take a cup of tank water and bubble it with an air stone outside for an hour or so. If the pH rises to what would be normal for your alkalinity, (mid or low 8's I'd guess), then you really do have a concerningly high CO2 level in that space.
Good thinking on that. I should have done it a long time ago. Took some tank water, and an airstone and let it run outside for an hour. Then checking the PH with the same Apex probe there was an immediate jump, but not nearly what would be expected. 7.78 to 7.93 (which is higher than it's ever been in the tank itself, but still suppressed.)
 
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Good thinking on that. I should have done it a long time ago. Took some tank water, and an airstone and let it run outside for an hour. Then checking the PH with the same Apex probe there was an immediate jump, but not nearly what would be expected. 7.78 to 7.93 (which is higher than it's ever been in the tank itself, but still suppressed.)
And now 20 minutes later with the probe still in the cup (inside the house) and the PH is heading right back down.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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If you want a chemical additive to boost pH (and always alkalinity too), there's no better choice than sodium hydroxide. It is part of my very high pH two part DIY methods:


 
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If you want a chemical additive to boost pH (and always alkalinity too), there's no better choice than sodium hydroxide. It is part of my very high pH two part DIY methods:


@Randy Holmes-Farley So do you suggest I use this two part, and quit using the Triton Method? Thanks in advance.
 

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@Randy Holmes-Farley So do you suggest I use this two part, and quit using the Triton Method? Thanks in advance.

If pH is the concern, you can just use this for the alk part and everything else unchanged from the Triton additives.
 
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If pH is the concern, you can just use this for the alk part and everything else unchanged from the Triton additives.
@Randy Holmes-Farley So just to be entirely clear (in my mind) ....
Use the Two part alk, and completely substitute it for just the two alk portions of the Triton method?
And should I just use sodium hydroxide alone in this case?
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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@Randy Holmes-Farley So just to be entirely clear (in my mind) ....
Use the Two part alk, and completely substitute it for just the two alk portions of the Triton method?

If you are using the Core 7 products, yes, replace both 3a and 3B.

Triton does not say exactly what is in those besides the alk, but you will likely be getting less of some "trace" elements.

You'll have to figure out the dose somehow. it won't be a 1:1 swap.
 
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Centurio

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If you are using the Core 7 products, yes, replace both 3a and 3B.

Triton does not say exactly what is in those besides the alk, but you will likely be getting less of some "trace" elements.

You'll have to figure out the dose somehow. it won't be a 1:1 swap.
Thank you so much.
 

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