just for clarity
drain is 1 inch
return is 1/2 inch
pump is 1 inch
On mine is pump 1 1/2 return 1 1/2to 1 inch and drain is 1 inch also
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just for clarity
drain is 1 inch
return is 1/2 inch
pump is 1 inch
It is a fact , I work in heavy industry (petroleum chemical) and it's a standard, all pumps are fitted with a discharge check-valve. If u think about it, when you reduce the power on the pump it will not be able to push the main discharge column of water forward such as during feed mode , it will still be running but at a slower speed to continue feeding the manifold , chiller etc. without a check valve the water column has no where to go but backwards whilst the pump is still pushing water forward, these two opposing forces can severely damage the PLASTIC rotating components of the pump.
Yeah, I worked in oil refinery's and other mills for 40+ years, and maybe you are right about the industrial sized pumps and pipes ( 2" up to 20" or even bigger) , but I highly doubt the same principles apply in aquarium pumps.
If this did apply, the pump makers would be all over it with warnings where warranty claims were made.
The same principles do apply, I've seen pumps with broken impellers which did not suck in anything and I've also seen impellers come loose for no reason at all. The warranty issue is a complicated one as there are way too many configurations possible when installing a pump, I decided to protect my $1100 investment by installing a $30 check valve, we are all free to do as we
It is a fact , I work in heavy industry (petroleum chemical) and it's a standard, all pumps are fitted with a discharge check-valve. If u think about it, when you reduce the power on the pump it will not be able to push the main discharge column of water forward such as during feed mode , it will still be running but at a slower speed to continue feeding the manifold , chiller etc. without a check valve the water column has no where to go but backwards whilst the pump is still pushing water forward, these two opposing forces can severely damage the PLASTIC rotating components of the pump.
It is a fact , I work in heavy industry (petroleum chemical) and it's a standard, all pumps are fitted with a discharge check-valve. If u think about it, when you reduce the power on the pump it will not be able to push the main discharge column of water forward such as during feed mode , it will still be running but at a slower speed to continue feeding the manifold , chiller etc. without a check valve the water column has no where to go but backwards whilst the pump is still pushing water forward, these two opposing forces can severely damage the PLASTIC rotating components of the pump.
The ONLY plastic rotating components in a quality pump is the impeller. The shafts on quality pumps are either stainless, titanium or other quality material. If the impellers are getting damaged because of backflow when you switch to feed mode, I would suggest you find a different pump. Head pressure will NOT damage a quality pump regardless of the speed you run it at. Even if you use feed mode which in my opinion is silly since the flow from the return helps distribute food throughout the tank to fish and corals. It also impacts the skimmer since that typically needs to be shut off so it doesn't overflow. Return pumps should be set it and forget it. Shutting off or turning down power heads for feeding is a different story in some systems.
The plumbing in my system is 1.25" so I went with an oversized 1.5" check valve to ensure the valve does not actually restrict the flow, the flapper is " spring less" and is very light which makes it easily opened by the pumps pressure. When in feed mode the back flowing water pressure slams the valve closed making a noticeable sound, I do not want this pressure getting back to my pump. As for slowing or stopping the pump when feeding, I think this is a no brainer when your tank has an overflow as the food will go down the overflow before the fish can get to it, distribution throughout the tank is handled by the circulators (4 Gyres in my case) which are also slowed , but as I said before, to each their own !
It may be fact in the petroleum industry but check valves are not needed and should be avoided in the aquarium industry. They are a liability and create unneeded head and friction loss and do nothing to reduce head pressure. As somebody who has been in the hobby for 30 years and works for a very well regarded pump and skimmer manufacturer, the idea that a check valve should be used because head pressure will create unwanted or unneeded back flow is a flawed logic for this hobby. Aquarium pumps are designed to overcome head pressure without worry about backflow. Any back flow if the power goes out will not harm the pumps.
Check valves rob pumps of flow and and with a DC or variable speed pump, they force you to run the pump at higher speeds to overcome pressure. The higher speeds can create additional stress on the pump as well as it's power supply because it's working harder, consuming more wattage and generating more heat. All of which can cause longevity issues with some pumps. While an AC pump may not generate more heat and may even consume less power with additional head, the head pressure or back flow (which is non existent when the pump is powered on) is not an issue at all. I suppose if you have an exceedingly high head, there may be some merit to this logic but most of us aren't running 20' of head pressure and those that are would be using suitable pumps such as pressure rated AC pumps or pressure rated DC pumps that are designed to deal with those kinds of head pressure.
There is NO reason to run a check valve on a return pump if the system and plumbing are properly designed and they should be avoid at all costs in our hobby.
Ok imo id loose the ball check. I don't have any experiences with them in tanks but i do in the industrial field as a water plant mechanic and we have had issues with them locking in the open position or getting anything inside them and clogging (zip ties and small pieces of electrical were most of its culprits for not closing) so I'm thinking a small piece of algea will clog out open. The good part is they are easy to take apart but you won't know its clogged until you need it to work. If you want a checkid go with a clear y style or just adjust your water level to compensate for a power outage.Dry fitting the plumbing. I decided to use the 3/4 inch pipe and reduce to 1/2 right under the tank just before the bulk head.
I was trying to fit a check valve in. I am running out of vertical space though. I was contemplating branching from the vertical bar to a horizontal manifold (last picture), but I think it might defeat the purpose of trying to use the check valve in the first place (if I have a branch before the check valve, I am thinking that it will just siphon out through the manifold.).
Please let me know if the current setup looks good or if there are any foreseeable problems with this plumbing.
Thanks!!