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Hi all,
Well, I just joined R2R and introduced myself in the new member area - but I guess this is the better place to start a build thread . So let's get started...
I ordered a 150g (60 x 24 x 24) tank from SC Aquariums a few months ago. The stand and aquarium have been waiting as I built up the infrastructure. I think/hope I am about 2-3 weeks from filling so I will start posting some pics to document my progress.
The aquarium will be placed in what should be a dining room (but we have a nook and counter in the kitchen and we really can't justify a dining room that will be used 2x/year ...so yay, I get my "fish" room). First step was to prep the room.
Here you can see the wall all ready to go with the following:
1) Two 20A dedicated GFCI lines. The GFCI outlets are actually in the garage and these lines route up through the attic and down to the garage. The only thing on the lines is the fish tank and then in the garage some fish-related gear. There are outlets above a workbench but they are intended for fish stuff only (need to watch that).
2) The higher outlet is the wiring for (4) T5 bulbs as well as a string to pull through the (2) LED power lines. These run to the pantry on the opposite side of the wall. The architectural committee (spouse) did approve (after much debate) giving me the top shelf of the pantry to hold the ballasts, some equipment and the chiller.
3) The other thing in this picture is my bundle of poly lines that go up through the attic to the garage. This bundle carries various connections to my "backroom" setup in the garage. The garage gets pretty warm here in the desert but given my space constraints, I had to choose this option as a trade-off. The connections I have here are:
a) BLUE 1/4" line - fresh RO/DI water (pumped in from ATO reservoir in garage).
b) RED 1/4" line - out-going SW line from return pump that feeds the Calc Reactor.
c) BLACK 1/4" line - incoming SW line from Calc Reactor.
d) WHITE 1/4" line - incoming Kalkwasser.
e) BLACK 3/8" line - outgoing SW from water changes.
f) WHITE 3/8" line - incoming SW for water changes.
g) USB cable - "Aquabus" connection from Neptune controller under tank to the gear in the garage.
On the opposite of the wall is the lighting equipment. 4 dimmable T5 ballasts along with 2 LED ballasts. I am running (4) T5 bulbs along with 2 Kessil AP700's for lighting. Also on the electronics mounting board is an Apex VDM module to control the dimming and an EB8 to power the lights as well as the chiller.
Here is the stand from SC Aquariums (Espresso finish) installed. The bundle hanging from the hole in the wall is 2 molex harnesses I made to support 2 T5 ballasts each. The cord hanging down is to pull the LED power lines back through the wall. Unfortunately, the LED's have the connectors at the END of the line by the ballast instead of by the lights. I wish Kessil did it the other way around so the excess cordage would be by the ballast and make the connection easier but I am sure there are applications that have it the other way around. The sump is a 36g Trigger system sump that I drilled on the left side to take the output from a Theiling Rollermat.
I also built in a 3" dam across the front of the cabinet and then coated the other side, the bottom and about 20" up the back on all sides with Redguard. All told, this should hold about 10 gallons of water in the case of a leak/flood (and there is a leak sensor installed).
And here is a close up view with the rollermat installed. Key notes of interest (hard to see), but the vertical pipe on the left is from the primary overflow from the BeanAnimal setup. This has a gate valve so I can control the flow through the rollermat and again, hard to see, but the horizontal pipe going into the rollermat is a 1" flow monitor from Neptune. The second vertical gate valve is the relief from the overflow to control the flow through the rollermat. Together, these 2 lines are intended to handle 99% of the tank overflow. The 3rd gate valve you can see going into the Sump with no connection will be connected to the open channel silent drain.
Here you can also see 6 little ball valves mounted vertically - (4) 1/4" and (2) 3/8". These are for the various poly lines listed above (fresh water, calc reactor, etc) so that I can shut them off from under the tank. There is a similar manifold in the garage so I can gate them on that end also. All of this is illuminated with an LED strip around the inside of the stand (you can see reflected a little in the rollermat). These lights are purely for maintenance work - not intended for normal use.
Well, I think that is all for now. More pics to come soon.
Cheers,
Rick
Well, I just joined R2R and introduced myself in the new member area - but I guess this is the better place to start a build thread . So let's get started...
I ordered a 150g (60 x 24 x 24) tank from SC Aquariums a few months ago. The stand and aquarium have been waiting as I built up the infrastructure. I think/hope I am about 2-3 weeks from filling so I will start posting some pics to document my progress.
The aquarium will be placed in what should be a dining room (but we have a nook and counter in the kitchen and we really can't justify a dining room that will be used 2x/year ...so yay, I get my "fish" room). First step was to prep the room.
Here you can see the wall all ready to go with the following:
1) Two 20A dedicated GFCI lines. The GFCI outlets are actually in the garage and these lines route up through the attic and down to the garage. The only thing on the lines is the fish tank and then in the garage some fish-related gear. There are outlets above a workbench but they are intended for fish stuff only (need to watch that).
2) The higher outlet is the wiring for (4) T5 bulbs as well as a string to pull through the (2) LED power lines. These run to the pantry on the opposite side of the wall. The architectural committee (spouse) did approve (after much debate) giving me the top shelf of the pantry to hold the ballasts, some equipment and the chiller.
3) The other thing in this picture is my bundle of poly lines that go up through the attic to the garage. This bundle carries various connections to my "backroom" setup in the garage. The garage gets pretty warm here in the desert but given my space constraints, I had to choose this option as a trade-off. The connections I have here are:
a) BLUE 1/4" line - fresh RO/DI water (pumped in from ATO reservoir in garage).
b) RED 1/4" line - out-going SW line from return pump that feeds the Calc Reactor.
c) BLACK 1/4" line - incoming SW line from Calc Reactor.
d) WHITE 1/4" line - incoming Kalkwasser.
e) BLACK 3/8" line - outgoing SW from water changes.
f) WHITE 3/8" line - incoming SW for water changes.
g) USB cable - "Aquabus" connection from Neptune controller under tank to the gear in the garage.
On the opposite of the wall is the lighting equipment. 4 dimmable T5 ballasts along with 2 LED ballasts. I am running (4) T5 bulbs along with 2 Kessil AP700's for lighting. Also on the electronics mounting board is an Apex VDM module to control the dimming and an EB8 to power the lights as well as the chiller.
Here is the stand from SC Aquariums (Espresso finish) installed. The bundle hanging from the hole in the wall is 2 molex harnesses I made to support 2 T5 ballasts each. The cord hanging down is to pull the LED power lines back through the wall. Unfortunately, the LED's have the connectors at the END of the line by the ballast instead of by the lights. I wish Kessil did it the other way around so the excess cordage would be by the ballast and make the connection easier but I am sure there are applications that have it the other way around. The sump is a 36g Trigger system sump that I drilled on the left side to take the output from a Theiling Rollermat.
I also built in a 3" dam across the front of the cabinet and then coated the other side, the bottom and about 20" up the back on all sides with Redguard. All told, this should hold about 10 gallons of water in the case of a leak/flood (and there is a leak sensor installed).
And here is a close up view with the rollermat installed. Key notes of interest (hard to see), but the vertical pipe on the left is from the primary overflow from the BeanAnimal setup. This has a gate valve so I can control the flow through the rollermat and again, hard to see, but the horizontal pipe going into the rollermat is a 1" flow monitor from Neptune. The second vertical gate valve is the relief from the overflow to control the flow through the rollermat. Together, these 2 lines are intended to handle 99% of the tank overflow. The 3rd gate valve you can see going into the Sump with no connection will be connected to the open channel silent drain.
Here you can also see 6 little ball valves mounted vertically - (4) 1/4" and (2) 3/8". These are for the various poly lines listed above (fresh water, calc reactor, etc) so that I can shut them off from under the tank. There is a similar manifold in the garage so I can gate them on that end also. All of this is illuminated with an LED strip around the inside of the stand (you can see reflected a little in the rollermat). These lights are purely for maintenance work - not intended for normal use.
Well, I think that is all for now. More pics to come soon.
Cheers,
Rick