Sea horse question

tkiry1

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Setting up a 47 gallon cubed aquarium that will be plumbed off my main displays sump. I have a 220 dt, and a 100 gallon Rubbermaid stock sump... Led lighting for this 47 gallon cube, any recommendations? I would like to mount something and not spend a ton.. 20x18x30 are the dimensions...thanks...
 

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Erects are commonly found sea horses and are generally not to difficult to keep in a mature tank... tank mates are best kept to a few, slow feeding fish such as mandarins, pipe fish, orange spot files (some files may go after the sea horses) keep the flow minimal and try not to blast the tank with too much light. Make sure you have material/rock in the tank that the horses are able to wrap their tails around.. Have fun with it!
 
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Erects are commonly found sea horses and are generally not to difficult to keep in a mature tank... tank mates are best kept to a few, slow feeding fish such as mandarins, pipe fish, orange spot files (some files may go after the sea horses) keep the flow minimal and try not to blast the tank with too much light. Make sure you have material/rock in the tank that the horses are able to wrap their tails around.. Have fun with it!

Any recommendation on led for that 47 cubed I am going to use? I know they don't need a ton of light... Thanks
 

Best Fish-Jake

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Any half watt LED fixture will do, none in particular come to mind as being the "must have" for sea horses... it all depends on what you're willing to spend, and what you all want out of the light
 
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Zack K

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AI Prime may do. Might be a little pricey for a Pony tank but you can always add some cool corals later[emoji1360]
 
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Zack K

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I was thinking about them.. R they apex controllable?

I know they are controllable through the AI interface but through the apex I do not know. I personally am very unfamiliar with the Apex but maybe @brew21 or @evolve would know. @melypr1985
 

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This light would be alright as long as you program it dimmer than you would in a normal reef, use your best judgment. I lightly skimmed through the features and it appears to be fairly customizable

Awesome.. Definitely dimmed... Thanks...
 

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Setting up a 47 gallon cubed aquarium that will be plumbed off my main displays sump. I have a 220 dt, and a 100 gallon Rubbermaid stock sump... Led lighting for this 47 gallon cube, any recommendations? I would like to mount something and not spend a ton.. 20x18x30 are the dimensions...thanks...
Somehow I missed this thread. I have a few cautions about the set up that you are planning. The biggest is temperature...seahorses do best in water temperatures under 75°F. Some folks have kept seahorses in temperatures that are higher but very few have done it successfully long term. With your smaller seahorse tank being plumbed into the larger reef tank, the seahorse tank will undoubtedly be 78° or higher. The only way to keep seahorses in those temperatures long term is to only feed live food, gut loaded mysis, or ghost shrimp and gut loaded live brine shrimp.

My other caution is in regards to your seahorses sharing water with the fish in your reef. Seahorses do not have the same immune protection as fish. Some of your fish are probably wild caught and most of your fish will be from different sources than the seahorses. The ponies will be exposed to many pathogens that they have never been exposed to and because of their deficiency in that area they will be at risk of succumbing to them.

My final caution is in regards to flow. Seahorses actually do best in tanks with high, moderate and low flow areas. They don't have the stamina of fish but they actually are better swimmers than most folks know.

If I were you, I would set the seahorse tank up as a stand alone system. I did what you are planning and eventually I separated the systems and ran the seahorse tank alone.
 
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Somehow I missed this thread. I have a few cautions about the set up that you are planning. The biggest is temperature...seahorses do best in water temperatures under 75°F. Some folks have kept seahorses in temperatures that are higher but very few have done it successfully long term. With your smaller seahorse tank being plumbed into the larger reef tank, the seahorse tank will undoubtedly be 78° or higher. The only way to keep seahorses in those temperatures long term is to only feed live food, gut loaded mysis, or ghost shrimp and gut loaded live brine shrimp.

My other caution is in regards to your seahorses sharing water with the fish in your reef. Seahorses do not have the same immune protection as fish. Some of your fish are probably wild caught and most of your fish will be from different sources than the seahorses. The ponies will be exposed to many pathogens that they have never been exposed to and because of their deficiency in that area they will be at risk of succumbing to them.

My final caution is in regards to flow. Seahorses actually do best in tanks with high, moderate and low flow areas. They don't have the stamina of fish but they actually are better swimmers than most folks know.

If I were you, I would set the seahorse tank up as a stand alone system. I did what you are planning and eventually I separated the systems and ran the seahorse tank alone.

Some good points.. Temp wise I actually keep the water about 76 to 77 at highest.. I have a pair of crosshatches and I know they like the cooler water.. I was worried about the pathogen/disease concern.. As far as flow I have adjustability there. I was going to add this tank and do either seahorses or those angler fish.. Lol. With the seashores I could easily separate the two systems.. Thanks for input...
 

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Some good points.. Temp wise I actually keep the water about 76 to 77 at highest.. I have a pair of crosshatches and I know they like the cooler water.. I was worried about the pathogen/disease concern.. As far as flow I have adjustability there. I was going to add this tank and do either seahorses or those angler fish.. Lol. With the seashores I could easily separate the two systems.. Thanks for input...
Glad to share some of the pitfalls that I experienced.
 

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Somehow I missed this thread. I have a few cautions about the set up that you are planning. The biggest is temperature...seahorses do best in water temperatures under 75°F. Some folks have kept seahorses in temperatures that are higher but very few have done it successfully long term. With your smaller seahorse tank being plumbed into the larger reef tank, the seahorse tank will undoubtedly be 78° or higher. The only way to keep seahorses in those temperatures long term is to only feed live food, gut loaded mysis, or ghost shrimp and gut loaded live brine shrimp.

My other caution is in regards to your seahorses sharing water with the fish in your reef. Seahorses do not have the same immune protection as fish. Some of your fish are probably wild caught and most of your fish will be from different sources than the seahorses. The ponies will be exposed to many pathogens that they have never been exposed to and because of their deficiency in that area they will be at risk of succumbing to them.

My final caution is in regards to flow. Seahorses actually do best in tanks with high, moderate and low flow areas. They don't have the stamina of fish but they actually are better swimmers than most folks know.

If I were you, I would set the seahorse tank up as a stand alone system. I did what you are planning and eventually I separated the systems and ran the seahorse tank alone.
Don't agree on the temperature information, here is an article that states 76-78. This has loads of great info, http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/12/fish2.
 

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Don't agree on the temperature information, here is an article that states 76-78. This has loads of great info, http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/12/fish2.
I respect your choice to disagree and that is fine. I will say that that article was written in 2004 and that captive bred seahorses were fairly new then. Before CB seahorses, folks kept wild caught seahorses and fed them live food in aquariums that were at reef temperatures. Those ponies did not get bacterial infections of the gut because their food was living. Now that CB seahorses eat frozen mysis that has changed. Seahorses are messy eaters and tend to let their food drift away and at times get caught in the coral, rocks or macro algae. In temperatures over 74° pathogenic bacteria like vibrio are fueled by the decaying food. For every degree above 74° they reproduce exponentially. Since seahorses lack immune response in their digestive tracts they can get sick and succumb quickly if they eat some of that decaying mysis. You can check my info with Ocean Rider's tech, Pete Giwonja who is an expert on seahorses.
 

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I respect your choice to disagree and that is fine. I will say that that article was written in 2004 and that captive bred seahorses were fairly new then. Before CB seahorses, folks kept wild caught seahorses and fed them live food in aquariums that were at reef temperatures. Those ponies did not get bacterial infections of the gut because their food was living. Now that CB seahorses eat frozen mysis that has changed. Seahorses are messy eaters and tend to let their food drift away and at times get caught in the coral, rocks or macro algae. In temperatures over 74° pathogenic bacteria like vibrio are fueled by the decaying food. For every degree above 74° they reproduce exponentially. Since seahorses lack immune response in their digestive tracts they can get sick and succumb quickly if they eat some of that decaying mysis. You can check my info with Ocean Rider's tech, Pete Giwonja who is an expert on seahorses.

Let's see if this paste works. From seahorse.org on CB seahorses, 71-78 for tropical seahorses.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...b14fsFGNbY9IXGLog&sig2=aMbPpDyJBlyCzCQP7FvEmg
 

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