Should I bother changing RODI filters?

[Mark Waltermire]

So I have a 150GPD 7 stage BRS filter, and I've had it running for 2 years on the same filters, and RO membrane, with DI resin being changed as needed. I run with a booster pump and the incoming water pressure ends up being ~84psi and then after the sediment filter and carbon block I'm still feeding 82 psi into the RO membrane. The incoming water TDS is 48-50 and then after two RO membranes the water is 1-2 TDS. After the 3 DI resin chambers it's 0. Is there a reason for me to change the pre-filters? I have been on well water up until this past week when I moved and am now on city water being treated with Chlorine. The sediment filter still looks white and just has a couple blades of grass or something along those lines as I'd been using a hose attachment to connect my water to the RODI system.

 

[piranhaman00]

Change the carbon for sure, their 7 stage is two 1micron carbon blocks right? That should take out the chloramine but I would change them out so they are fresh for the new challenge.

 

[Silver14SS]

If worried about the chlorine you can pick up a chlorine test for cheap. If still getting 0 TDS and no chlorine, no reason to replace unless you just want the piece of mind.

 

[Mark Waltermire]

Change the carbon for sure, their 7 stage is two 1micron carbon blocks right? That should take out the chloramine but I would change them out so they are fresh for the new challenge.

I believe the carbon is 1 micron filters, but previously the only thing that has been removed from our water supply was the salt put into the water by our water softener. The city also does not treat using Chloramines so that will not be an issue.

 

[Mark Waltermire]

If worried about the chlorine you can pick up a chlorine test for cheap. If still getting 0 TDS and no chlorine, no reason to replace unless you just want the piece of mind.

That is a good idea. I'll look at the pool section of a hardware store today.

 

[JoshH]

I'll agree with above, test for chlorine before the membrane and this will tell you if your carbon is exhausted or not. This is the primary reason for the carbon stage as chlorine will destroy your membranes. If your testing 0 chlorine you should be fine.

 

[Silver14SS]

That is a good idea. I'll look at the pool section of a hardware store today.

Maybe a drinking water test if the pool stuff isn't the range you need. The Lowe's website shows my local store has this one in stock:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mosser-Lee-H2O-OK-Drinking-Water-Test-Kit/50352996

 

[Mark Waltermire]

I'll agree with above, test for chlorine before the membrane and this will tell you if your carbon is exhausted or not. This is the primary reason for the carbon stage as chlorine will destroy your membranes. If your testing 0 chlorine you should be fine.

Maybe a drinking water test if the pool stuff isn't the range you need. The Lowe's website shows my local store has this one in stock:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mosser-Lee-H2O-OK-Drinking-Water-Test-Kit/50352996

That's exactly the information that I was looking for and that will definitely allow me to know whether or not the carbon is exhausted. I was looking to find out how to tell if they were still good or not and I didn't even think of testing the chlorine afterwards. Thank you very much and Silver14ss thank you for the idea, I'm sure that would probably work better than a pool test kit.

 

[lapin]

At $12.99 to $16.99 for the carbon block I would just get a new one. The cost of the test kit is $9.98