Should I use kalkwasser to grow my corals faster?

moretor1

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Corals and calcification consume alk and Ca in a fixed ratio: 18-19ppm calcium and 2.8dKH.

You can’t consume alk without also consuming calcium unless you dose a mineral acid like hydrochloride acid which will tank the pH in the display.

It’s much easier to simply dose calcium chloride.
I was under the impression that alkalinity fell much faster than alk calcium in a fully stocked system like this. Lots of stuff consumes alk but not much is soaking out calcium
Alk depletion is usually from 0.3 to 4 dKH per day. 1 dKH is certainly not unusual, even in a soft coral tank.

The expect calcium drop in your tank will be quite low, and as a percentage of the levels, the calcium drop per day is far lower than alk, ALWAYS. About 18-20 ppm calcium for each 2.8 dKH. Your kit cannot reliable detect a few ppm drop in calcium.

It's not odd to have low pH either, and the tigheter (newer) your home the lower the pH is likely to be due to excessive CO2 in your home air. There are many options if the pH is accurate (what device are you using?) A scrubber, growing macroalgae, using limewater or other very high pH alk additive, outside air to a skimmer inlet, etc.
As long as he raises his nutrients the higher alk shouldnt be a problem
 
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divewsharks

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I'm using Radion XR15 G6. I recently installed this new light (5 months ago). Before that was Current USA Led



5 frags of those zoanthids have 2 years ans they are the same. The other ones have 8 and 6 months.
None of your zoa's have added any polyps in the time they have been in the tank? Definitely need nutrients (food for them). Some of them may not appreciate the amount of light your SPS are getting.
Have the SPS frags began encrusting at all? How long have the SPS frags been in, might have missed that.
 

Project

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OP use kalkwasser. It's best thing for in the hobby... Like creatine is in the fitness industry. Just use it with caution.
 
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joanropi17

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None of your zoa's have added any polyps in the time they have been in the tank? Definitely need nutrients (food for them). Some of them may not appreciate the amount of light your SPS are getting.
Have the SPS frags began encrusting at all? How long have the SPS frags been in, might have missed that.
I'm feeding reef roids 3 times a week. My SPS are new (3 months already). After i started this discussion, i stopped using NO3PO4. This is the template that I'm using for lighting. See the picture.
 

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Dom

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Hey, guys! I'm looking for an advise about kalkwasser?

I have a Biocube 32 gallon tank and I would like to grow my corals faster. My parameters are:

Salinity: 1,025
Nitrates: 1
Phosphate: 0
Calcium: 350
Magnesium: 1400
PH: 8.09
Temperature: 78°
Alkalinity: 8

I do water changes every week. I dose phytoplankton once a week. I also have a algae reactor.

I don't know what to do or what am I doing wrong.

I attached some pictures of tank

I wouldn't say you are doing anything wrong. But I would say you should be more patient.

Calcium and Alkalinity are two important parameters where coral growth is concerned.

My Calcium sits between 430-445 and my Alkalinity between 8-8.5

Also, what kind of lighting do you use? It isn't enough to light the tank. Lighting needs to be powerful enough to penetrate to the bottom of the tank.

Flow should be chaotic. Many people place their power heads facing the same direction. Power heads should face each other creating random current. When everything faces the same way, your flow is like stirring a pot.

Water changes should be faithful, weekly and 20% of total water volume. This will provide your tank with replenishment of elements consumed by your tank. And while this is effective in young tanks, as your corals grow, water changes alone won't be enough. This is when you begin dosing.

Please resist the urge to run out and buy magic potions in a bottle. And certainly vet the information you receive from the local fish store here at R2R.
 

Miami Reef

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I was under the impression that alkalinity fell much faster than alk calcium in a fully stocked system like this. Lots of stuff consumes alk but not much is soaking out calcium
Nope. They consume both in a fixed ratio. There is just a lot more calcium than alkalinity in the water.

If the tank drops 2dKH (from 8dKH to 6dKH, for example) the tank will be borderline.

The tank will only drop 12ppm calcium which is insignificant.
 

GARRIGA

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Acid could be used to lower excess alkalinity if done slowly since co2 levels will rise but eventually equalize with room levels thereby raising pH. One way I experimented with kalk because my house has high co2 levels.

Another option would be Carbo Calcium which elevates both alkalinity and calcium yet being more soluble allows for greater contribution to moving everything up to desired levels. No experience with latter but something I’ve considered. Would still need to balance other ions and why I’m leaning AFR. Still trying to understand the actual alkalinity rise vs calcium. You’d think it would act the same as kalk and my present assumption.

In the end. Everything dosed has a side effect requiring it’s own adjustment.

Key here to me would be first finding a way to raise calcium then worry about how to solve alkalinity outside of just performing 100% WC and acclimating everything to new water. Assuming all life within can be taken out temporarily. Start with a clean base having good salt then work on maintaining the required levels.

Starting from scratch often easier then fixing persistent issues.
 
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joanropi17

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I wouldn't say you are doing anything wrong. But I would say you should be more patient.

Calcium and Alkalinity are two important parameters where coral growth is concerned.

My Calcium sits between 430-445 and my Alkalinity between 8-8.5

Also, what kind of lighting do you use? It isn't enough to light the tank. Lighting needs to be powerful enough to penetrate to the bottom of the tank.

Flow should be chaotic. Many people place their power heads facing the same direction. Power heads should face each other creating random current. When everything faces the same way, your flow is like stirring a pot.

Water changes should be faithful, weekly and 20% of total water volume. This will provide your tank with replenishment of elements consumed by your tank. And while this is effective in young tanks, as your corals grow, water changes alone won't be enough. This is when you begin dosing.

Please resist the urge to run out and buy magic potions in a bottle. And certainly vet the information you receive from the local fish store here at R2R.
Thank you, I really appreciate your honesty.
 

exnisstech

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Nope. They consume both in a fixed ratio. There is just a lot more calcium than alkalinity in the water.
While in theory this is correct (from what I've read) in real life it isn't always the case. I have always had to dose more alk than calcium when using two part. I also never saw a pH bump when using kalk when most everyone states they do.
 

exnisstech

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Which 2 part system?
Just wanted to step back in to say you are absolutely correct in them being consumed in equal parts. My memory is a little slow. Randy explained that other factors can add extra calcium or alk so even tho they are used equally it may require dosing different amount. Not his words exactly. Sorry
 

Miami Reef

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Just wanted to step back in to say you are absolutely correct in them being consumed in equal parts. My memory is a little slow. Randy explained that other factors can add extra calcium or alk so even tho they are used equally it may require dosing different amount. Not his words exactly. Sorry
No worries. Thank you for clarifying. There are some 2 parts that aren’t meant for equal dosing, so I was trying to rule that out (ESV was made for equal dosing, but you can always adjust dosages based on your exact system.

Fortunately, calcium has a very wide acceptable range. 400ppm to 550ppm is acceptable.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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While in theory this is correct (from what I've read) in real life it isn't always the case. I have always had to dose more alk than calcium when using two part. I also never saw a pH bump when using kalk when most everyone states they do.

It is an accurate theory, and there are some mostly minor processes (more parts to the full theory of everything) that skew it.

The lower the consumption by corals and coralline algae (which largely has a fixed alk to calcium ratio), the more likely these minor processes become detectable. They include water changes, sulfur denitrators, and rising, falling, or dosing nitrate.
 

Nate Chalk

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No worries. Thank you for clarifying. There are some 2 parts that aren’t meant for equal dosing, so I was trying to rule that out (ESV was made for equal dosing, but you can always adjust dosages based on your exact system.

Fortunately, calcium has a very wide acceptable range. 400ppm to 550ppm is acceptable.
I have been down to 320-350 calcium for a long time, slow growth.

not too many ill affects.
 

GARRIGA

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It is an accurate theory, and there are some mostly minor processes (more parts to the full theory of everything) that skew it.

The lower the consumption by corals and coralline algae (which largely has a fixed alk to calcium ratio), the more likely these minor processes become detectable. They include water changes, sulfur denitrators, and rising, falling, or dosing nitrate.
Does AFR and Carbo Calcium behave the same? I expect they would.
 

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