Slime/algae ID and how to deal with it?

[efish]

The main issue I had was using tap water, just got an rodi but I would like to make the process go smoother, best products/ procedures to get rid of these carpets of annoying pieces of garbage.

 

[benmed]

How old is tank and what are your parameters? Salinity, phos, nitrate? If young tank, which I assume not, ammonia?

 

[Lavey29]

That's cyano, increases flow on the sand. Siphon it out and fix your parameters. Reduce lights to 6 hours. Blue and uv only no whites.

 

[vetteguy53081]

The main issue I had was using tap water, just got an rodi but I would like to make the process go smoother, best products/ procedures to get rid of these carpets of annoying pieces of garbage.

Cyano blooms typically start nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. Often, when there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a platform for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what the perception of not doing one which reduces the organic content that feeds cyano.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skimmate. When the protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for red slime .
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[efish]

How old is tank and what are your parameters? Salinity, phos, nitrate? If young tank, which I assume not, ammonia?

Salinity 1.025
Nitrates below .01
Phosphates anywhere from .25 to 0ppm
Ammonia around 0ppm
Tank is 9ish months old sad to say

 

[efish]

cyano it is. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I do not have a protein skimmer
I feed fish every 3-4 days
Live rock is over 9months old
3 1gal water changes every week(tank is 13.5gal)
Just switched to rodi
I will try reducing light starting tommorow
I have a wave maker and the return pump nozzle pumping water
One thing I think I need to work on is syphoning the substrate, but the cyano does not come off the sand? What should I do?

 

[benmed]

That’s a pretty big range for your phos… hopefully switching to rodi will help with that. I like the idea of taking the lights off for a bit or putting all blue if you are able. Getting fish or CUC that will stir up your substrate may help as well. Sometimes you just have to let your tank figure it out too. With that said, slow gentle changes. To keep keep the lights off for a week and control phos.