Smite's Stout CDA - 205g Acropora dominant system 50x38x25"

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Lamps are in
C88D1AE4-0E88-4108-ABE5-46BDBE88614D.jpeg

b+
aquablue
actinic
tropic
b+
b+
6500
actinic
aquablue
b+
 

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I decide to add finger grooves in the top since the magnets are pretty strong and the wood is flush to the glass. I didn’t want any knobs or handles.

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That's looks fantastic. I'm thinking you'll miss the shimmer from the halides. I bet you'll add those led strips asap
 
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That's looks fantastic. I'm thinking you'll miss the shimmer from the halides. I bet you'll add those led strips asap
Oh there's no question about that. MH is my preferred lighting overall all else. I've ran radions, AI, ATI t5s in the past. But for this tank and it's locations aesthetics factored in more they they normally would for me.

I'm not sure what LED would actually be able to shimmer vs 10 54w t5s but I'm still considering kessil to see if that works, but again I'd have to keep overall aesthetics in mind so I may land on some XHOs down the road.
 

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Oh there's no question about that. MH is my preferred lighting overall all else. I've ran radions, AI, ATI t5s in the past. But for this tank and it's locations aesthetics factored in more they they normally would for me.

I'm not sure what LED would actually be able to shimmer vs 10 54w t5s but I'm still considering kessil to see if that works, but again I'd have to keep overall aesthetics in mind so I may land on some XHOs down the road.
I ran kessil for the longest time. I upgraded to orphek and still use two kessils for just the shimmer affect.
 

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There's nothing like kessil for shimmer or blue really as its not too blue if that makes sense.
But I also loved kessil from the beginning. If you like the halide shimmer you'll like kessil. I'd look into the other strips first for shimmer as they would be cheaper and easier to integrate with the fixture. Kessil I've noticed like any led now is an "acquired taste" like really anything. Some love them and others want to see them burn
 
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Thanks @VanDalsenReef

I was curious what you thought about the blue, I get exactly what you're saying. I think maybe it's just 1 straight RB? I'm running an A360we in my sump currently for frags. I love the day color and shimmer is nice, boarder line to busy but I do like it. While I love my day spectrum on the whiter side by todays standards I really like a deep saturated blue, that was one of my favorite parts of radions. It seems like its hard to replicate.

I have 3 a360we that I planned on using to supplement the halides. Basically extend the viewing period and for blues. I had 4 but one popped on me (bought them all used). I tried cleaning it and then even jumping it with 12v like i saw on a video but its dead. I am worried it will look funny and give me crazy overspill into the room mounted off the powermodule but I do already have the apex controller and jumpers to control them. I'm gonna play around and see if I can make it look alright.

for looks, xho probably would look sleeker and be more plug and play.
 

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Sweet looking set up cant wait to see that thing running! Love the dims thats for sure, think that tank fits in that corner like a glove. following along
 

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Thanks @VanDalsenReef

I was curious what you thought about the blue, I get exactly what you're saying. I think maybe it's just 1 straight RB? I'm running an A360we in my sump currently for frags. I love the day color and shimmer is nice, boarder line to busy but I do like it. While I love my day spectrum on the whiter side by todays standards I really like a deep saturated blue, that was one of my favorite parts of radions. It seems like its hard to replicate.

I have 3 a360we that I planned on using to supplement the halides. Basically extend the viewing period and for blues. I had 4 but one popped on me (bought them all used). I tried cleaning it and then even jumping it with 12v like i saw on a video but its dead. I am worried it will look funny and give me crazy overspill into the room mounted off the powermodule but I do already have the apex controller and jumpers to control them. I'm gonna play around and see if I can make it look alright.

for looks, xho probably would look sleeker and be more plug and play.
There are custom mounts I bought that make it super easy and there's a couple Australian reefers that made different mounts for their kessils
 

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I'm working on laying out the hanging kit for this ATI powermodule. I got lucky and 1 stud lines up perfectly. Unfortunately that's it, the other stud that would line up is behind my crown molding by a couple inches. I'm considering hanging that side from the supplied toggle bolt but keep finding mixed info from as low as 15lbs and up to a 1/3 of the toggle rating, which would be around 30 lbs.

I've weighed the module by subracting my body weight from me on the scale holding the unit. It came out the 36.5lbs. That puts me @ roughly 18 pounds that would be on that toggle. That's just about some of the lower ratings I've found for a straight drywall ceiling.

What's everyones input? I was thinking worst case scenario I mount a 1x3 piece of wood across the ceiling. That would allow me to screw into 2 joists. My only concern is that leaves me at the one that lines up as anchor point 1, then 2 ft is the next joist for point 2 and thats it. The last one is behind the moulding at the ceiling. Im worried 18lbs might be enough to cause the wood to sag.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Matt
 

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I'm working on laying out the hanging kit for this ATI powermodule. I got lucky and 1 stud lines up perfectly. Unfortunately that's it, the other stud that would line up is behind my crown molding by a couple inches. I'm considering hanging that side from the supplied toggle bolt but keep finding mixed info from as low as 15lbs and up to a 1/3 of the toggle rating, which would be around 30 lbs.

I've weighed the module by subracting my body weight from me on the scale holding the unit. It came out the 36.5lbs. That puts me @ roughly 18 pounds that would be on that toggle. That's just about some of the lower ratings I've found for a straight drywall ceiling.

What's everyones input? I was thinking worst case scenario I mount a 1x3 piece of wood across the ceiling. That would allow me to screw into 2 joists. My only concern is that leaves me at the one that lines up as anchor point 1, then 2 ft is the next joist for point 2 and thats it. The last one is behind the moulding at the ceiling. Im worried 18lbs might be enough to cause the wood to sag.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Matt
I would put the 1x3 on the ceiling. Just make sure it spans 2 or 3 studs. Shouldn’t sag
 
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I would put the 1x3 on the ceiling. Just make sure it spans 2 or 3 studs. Shouldn’t sag
Yeah that’s the plan. I went ahead with the toggle but once lifting it up by the wire I decided I’ll be putting the wood up. I’ll run the toggle for the kit straight threw the 1x3 amd hit the stud in the middle with a screw.
 
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I’ll say the spectrum is still a little blue for me but I’ll see how it does and looks once coral are in it. It’s about a radium 18-20k I’d say. I’d like to get closer to 12-14k daylight. Coverage is great though.

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Well this par meter app doesn’t appear to work well with t5.

approximate water height
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Sand bed
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What is cool is that sand bed measurement is pretty even front to back and that’s all I was really looking for from it.
I did buy the MH add on when I had the pendants up but those readings were all very low. I assume from the spectrum but again it was super even.

randomly the fans wouldn’t work. I’m going to bypass this jack they supply on these old PM. Twisted it and they all came back.
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 22 28.9%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 28 36.8%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 20 26.3%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 5 6.6%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 1.3%

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