So tired of fighting all this.

Cflip

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Would removing the live rock and adding fake rock get rid of the problems? My tank is not new.

3E1E660E-6B9D-4D6E-883B-15A6A391C1DE.jpeg


E1519EDF-7DF8-4EC8-AA4E-B617EB51E7B2.jpeg
 

James M

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Doesn’t look bad at all for the bubble algea I would get a couple of emerald crabs and manually remove the other algea
 

Kitarro

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Even with the bubble algae emerald crabs can help. The other option is to manually remove them during a water change.
The other algae as well can be easily contained with removal and water changes, possibly keeping an eye on the water quality as well.
 
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Cflip

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Doesn’t look bad at all for the bubble algea I would get a couple of emerald crabs and manually remove the other algea


I have a hawkish limts my CUC. I’m always manually removing the bubble algae that just comes back again.
 

reef-rc

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I have a hawkish limts my CUC. I’m always manually removing the bubble algae that just comes back again.

I was trying to figure out your setup before responding based on your various threads but it does not look like you have a build thread of your tank specs. Having said that I understand the frustration very well as I am just now going over the algae hump with some help and will assumed you have the basic covered (i.e. good water parameters, good RODI water, flow, lighting, CUC). I am also making the assumption your tank is less than 1.5 yrs old given the pics you shared.

Outside of frequent water changes, pulling out algae manually with every water change and adding the right clean up crew (not just snails...algae eating tang if your tank is big enough to support them...unfortunately my nano are not) you may want to consider using Vibrant and/or Reef Flux to remedy the problem then get back to your husbandry routine.

You can search on both and suggestions on how to go about using them so I won't unless you have questions I can help with. What I can tell you is that I fought with hair algae/bryopsis and bubble algae for over 6 months period before trying both products and they do work to an extent. These links below are my brief experiences in my both my Fusion 20 and Fluval Evo tanks.

  • Summary of my experiences - link
  • My Fusion 20 experiences - link
  • My Fluval Evo experiences - link
Good luck. Let me know how it goes or if you have questions. I have a few suggestions if you do decide to go down this path.
 
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Cflip

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I was trying to figure out your setup before responding based on your various threads but it does not look like you have a build thread of your tank specs. Having said that I understand the frustration very well as I am just now going over the algae hump with some help and will assumed you have the basic covered (i.e. good water parameters, good RODI water, flow, lighting, CUC). I am also making the assumption your tank is less than 1.5 yrs old given the pics you shared.

Outside of frequent water changes, pulling out algae manually with every water change and adding the right clean up crew (not just snails...algae eating tang if your tank is big enough to support them...unfortunately my nano are not) you may want to consider using Vibrant and/or Reef Flux to remedy the problem then get back to your husbandry routine.

You can search on both and suggestions on how to go about using them so I won't unless you have questions I can help with. What I can tell you is that I fought with hair algae/bryopsis and bubble algae for over 6 months period before trying both products and they do work to an extent. These links below are my brief experiences in my both my Fusion 20 and Fluval Evo tanks.

  • Summary of my experiences - link
  • My Fusion 20 experiences - link
  • My Fluval Evo experiences - link
Good luck. Let me know how it goes or if you have questions. I have a few suggestions if you do decide to go down this path.


I’ve been using Red Sea algae management no3 po4-x but not consistently. I’m not sure how often I should add it. My tank is small 55 gallons and it’s been up for years. CUC is snails. A sump and a skimmer.
 
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Maybe I should leave the lights off for awhile?
 

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Honestly remove the rock and spot treat with 3% hydrogren peroxide. Do that a couple of times and you'll be amazed at how well it works (it will take a week after each application for the effects to show). If you want the bubble algae gone for good use Vibrant as well.
 

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Nopox is supposed to be added consistently on a daily basis. When you're using it, you need to closely monitor your nitrates and phosphates. Those reaching zero is bad news. I'm presently weaning my system off from it, as I believe my cyano outbreak to be linked to it.
 
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Honestly remove the rock and spot treat with 3% hydrogren peroxide. Do that a couple of times and you'll be amazed at how well it works (it will take a week after each application for the effects to show). If you want the bubble algae gone for good use Vibrant as well.


Is Vibrant any better than nopox? Or should I just try it more consistently?
 
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Nopox is supposed to be added consistently on a daily basis. When you're using it, you need to closely monitor your nitrates and phosphates. Those reaching zero is bad news. I'm presently weaning my system off from it, as I believe my cyano outbreak to be linked to it.

How will you correct that? I thought it was to be added once a week?
 

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Is Vibrant any better than nopox? Or should I just try it more consistently?
Well I would say they are very much different. Vibrant will work wonderfully against bubble algae specifically. I've had a tough time with it doing anything against hair algae and others have had mixed results. The peroxide should help you beat down the hair algae IMO.

Nopox is great but you have to be extremely aggressive against established hair algae. With smaller rocks that you can remove it's tough to beat peroxide applications. FWIW I've done it all.
 

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How will you correct that? I thought it was to be added once a week?
It's been a while since I've dosed vodka, nopox, etc. but it will likely work best dosed every 12 hrs. You can't really sustain the bacterial colonies by dosing 1x/week.
 

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If it was me I would skip the chemical treatments, remove the hawk fish, manually remove what you can then add a appropriate CUC including emerald crabs and lots of assorted hermits.. problem solved.
 

NS Mike D

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I’ve been using Red Sea algae management no3 po4-x but not consistently. I’m not sure how often I should add it. My tank is small 55 gallons and it’s been up for years. CUC is snails. A sump and a skimmer.


right there. let's get back to the basics of good reef tank husbandry. NoPOx is a form of carbon dosing. The carbon (not activated carbon which is totally different), feeds certain bacteria that uses up NH3 before the other bacteria can turn it into NO3. This bacteria then gets pulled out of the tank by your skimmer. If you are carbon dosing you should see a dark tea skimmate

You should only dose things to address a problem that shows up on tests. Thus dosing NoPox should be dosed to bring down NO3 (look up carbon dosing for more information and how it also affects PO4).

I am mature tank, your creation of NO3 and PO4 and it's consumption should be stable - ie regular feedings and steady consumption, thus dosing NoPox should be dosed regularly and in amounts to maintain stable NO3 and PO4. Thus you start by taking NO3 and PO4 readings and note how far off from your target range they are. The dose as per Red Sea's directions and adjust based on your subsequent test results.

on another note, tuxedo urchins are pretty good grazers
 
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Cflip

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Honestly remove the rock and spot treat with 3% hydrogren peroxide. Do that a couple of times and you'll be amazed at how well it works (it will take a week after each application for the effects to show). If you want the bubble algae gone for good use Vibrant as well.


After I spot treat with peroxide can I put the rock right back in the tank or do I need to set it in salt water for awhile?
 

NS Mike D

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pull the frags off the rocks and scrub and peroxide them to deal with what you have now. Know you target NO3 and PO4 target ranges and focus on stability in the range.

Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel and Tail Spot Blenny are grazers that can go in a 55gal

add corals to take up space (and compete with algae) on those rocks.
 
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right there. let's get back to the basics of good reef tank husbandry. NoPOx is a form of carbon dosing. The carbon (not activated carbon which is totally different), feeds certain bacteria that uses up NH3 before the other bacteria can turn it into NO3. This bacteria then gets pulled out of the tank by your skimmer. If you are carbon dosing you should see a dark tea skimmate

You should only dose things to address a problem that shows up on tests. Thus dosing NoPox should be dosed to bring down NO3 (look up carbon dosing for more information and how it also affects PO4).

I am mature tank, your creation of NO3 and PO4 and it's consumption should be stable - ie regular feedings and steady consumption, thus dosing NoPox should be dosed regularly and in amounts to maintain stable NO3 and PO4. Thus you start by taking NO3 and PO4 readings and note how far off from your target range they are. The dose as per Red Sea's directions and adjust based on your subsequent test results.

on another note, tuxedo urchins are pretty good grazers


Would I need to quarantine the urchin first? Would he be OK with my hawkfish?
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

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