Given the details on $ torches and their proclivity to bjd which nobody has truly pinpointed yet/ causes and prevention/ that further restricts in my opinion what should be done.
UV is still valid, indicated even in my opinion, but meds that jack with the biome like chemi clean no way I'd risk those I know you know that too based on the maturity level in that tank above
Whatever steady state changed in my opinion has a strong chance of abating if you never let it mass #1 be busy if the tank says to, we cannot risk an outbreak in that tank at all. Hand siphoning over and over five gallons directed export at a time cannot harm that tank and it directly removes mass.
Based on thousands of threads scanned start to finish #2 protection is even if you find something that kills the target, never dose it into the tank to kill and lyse all those million target cells within the tank.
In my patterning that's what starts dinos for people in the big dinos thread. They do something that doesn't export, but kills matted massed cells in the tank and they rot there and that death chemistry kicks off a new succession. You're at the starting point 900b pages of work only wishes they could be back at
Lower lighting sustained eight weeks is a firm recommend. It might can play against the removed target, to prevent its growback, and corals don't mind.
Every move we make is from the totally clean condition after detailed hand siphoning. We evaluate the growback, that's key.
Everyone who turns their tank into a 3 year dinos battle chooses opposite: they evaluate things that kill the mass in the tank so they didn't have to work to keep them out.
We must be opposite of those masses
you're at the crucial fork in the road.
The corals are eating directly even if lighting is reduced a bit. It can't cause dinos. Too high lighting dang sure can bring them out for sure, we're reversing that %. Keep the spectrum it's perfect tune for that reef but -15% sustained eight weeks i think is prime start.
if not a little more thereafter. Evaluate lighting power as your first safe hedge.
Reinstate it after your win if needed, slowly
Then total cleaning by siphon again, that's the insurance due till cause is found or until they exhaust as a community. It cannot cause dinos
Don't buy a microscope but if you can send a sample to anyone that does have one I'm interested in species for the only time in my life: this is a preventative job vs a cleanup. I'm interested if this is cyano or dinos
Any cell phone cam can be placed very close to the objective at just the right angle and it'll take a perfect cell pic no $ scope required
UV is two options. Rn on
Amazon for 190 bucks there's nine options that run a fifteen thousand gallon pond lol no joke
Go oversized if you're going to play is my recommend. Those will junk out in a year or two in salt but I don't think this would take 3 mos to fix and wean off them.
But that tank isn't skimped on $
Amazon UVs are skimping but they dang sure work and for projected three month jobs/ not a bad bet. Big bulky temporary installs for max two hundred can get effects
A true pro uv still oversized, we're not playing here, is 1200.00 but I personally wouldn't own a vette like that without one as cheat plumbing. It would run off / not engaged nearly always, but get flipped on should something pop up (turned on after i fully removed the target) and that's simply powerful strong hedges against dinos, invasive spirulina and cyano, and several types of GHA which also reproduce by fragmentation and pelagic distribution which is how UV catches the cells.
For a tank that quality, that's the top preventative series if it was mine, if all chips were on the table.
the tank params are set to grow corals and by that standard it cannot be a parameter problem here. Something just rode in one day on a frag and barely started to mass up. We will catch it.
It needs to be all physical battles to prevent a dinos shift.
This is not a job for costly aquabiomics testing at all. Your biome is not in danger and nothing we did above harms a biome.
