Any difference in shimmer effect from LED vs metal halides?
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I'd supplement with kessils. Halide with your current 8bulb T5 would be a crazy amount of light.Any difference in shimmer effect from LED vs metal halides?
Ok. But I just want to let you know I’m only using 6 of the 8 bulbs because the par was wayyyyy too strong even when raised to max height. I was getting 500-600 on top with 8 bulbs.I'd supplement with kessils. Halide with your current 8bulb T5 would be a crazy amount of light.
I don't have T5 but they are a lot more forgiving in the par numbers than LED. Single point of light vs broad range. With halide those number may even double. I do have kessils though and the shimmer can't be beat.Ok. But I just want to let you know I’m only using 6 of the 8 bulbs because the par was wayyyyy too strong even when raised to max height. I was getting 500-600 on top with 8 bulbs.
Why are T5’s more forgiving? Are you saying 150 par of T5 would be better for an sps vs 150 par of LED?I don't have T5 but they are a lot more forgiving in the par numbers than LED. Single point of light vs broad range. With halide those number may even double. I do have kessils though and the shimmer can't be beat.
You are a awesome! I had acro frags on the top of my tank that all died and I'm sure it was from my LED’s. Im so happy I have T5’s now!I could go on for hours about this... but in short you never heard of T5s, MH, MV, HPS, etc burning coral with 1000+ PAR. Sunlight outside for me in Missouri was over 2000 with no issues. Most LED over 350-400 PAR will burn most coral - not all, but most. It is about quality.... probably harsh spikes in some spectrum that are just too much combined with lack of IR (not measured with a PAR meter) for Emerson Effect (ability of corals to process energy from Photosystem II to Photosystem I). There are some other theories like lenses and just users messing with them too much (although those that set them and leave them have issues with high PAR too). In the end, it is true in nearly all tanks, so while we figure out the why it is a good idea just to not try and beat the odds, although a very few have.
Lastly, PAR is just from about 420 to 680 nm, or so. Some sensors are better, but even then, 400 to 700 is the range. Corals use more light than this. Most LEDs are made to pop a PAR meter in the visible range (400-700) and do not offer much beyond this - some do like Orphek. A T5 and especially MH make spectrum from 350 to 850 that can be beneficial... so 150 PAR from a T5 is more than a LED and a MH is even more than the T5 even though the meter cannot read this.
Facts of Light by Tullio at a MACNA a few years back goes into all of this in depth. It can be dry and slow to some, but he explains it all. ...just facts and not a one-type over another type of deal. The video is on YouTube.
I currently have 2 kessil 360we over my 90 gallon. I'm in the process of actually turning them down. I think I was blasting my corals and negatively affecting them. I'm also getting the T5 hybrid fixture and making the T5 the primary light with my kessil turned down just for the visual effects and a small bump to the par.You are a awesome! I had acro frags on the top of my tank that all died and I'm sure it was from my LED’s. Im so happy I have T5’s now!
In looking at your hood setup the other day on another thread, the heat is needing dissipation now with new T5 and LED....you're gonna have to rethink your entire hood setup if this is the way you gonna go imo..Any difference in shimmer effect from LED vs metal halides?
I'm adding vents to the hood tomorrow. I'm not adding LED’s nor Metal halides. I was just wonderingIn looking at your hood setup the other day on another thread, the heat is needing dissipation now with new T5 and LED....you're gonna have to rethink your entire hood setup if this is the way you gonna go imo..