Tank cycling help…

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Tom735

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After some help please! Been cycling now for about 4/5 weeks
Dosed dr tims ammonia along with stability, ammonia spiked and is now 0 but nitrites have been between 3/5ppm for around 2 weeks now
Added some turbo start 900 couple days ago to see if it would help
There’s tons of white bits floating around and the surface too


IMG_0262.jpeg
 
It’s probably just a testing error, What test kit are you using?

Also, high nitrite isn’t such a big deal even if it’s not a test kit error.
 
It’s probably just a testing error, What test kit are you using?

Also, high nitrite isn’t such a big deal even if it’s not a test kit error.
Sorry forgot to mention using API saltwater test kit
 
Sorry forgot to mention using API saltwater test kit
It’s probably just a test kit error. I’d do a water change just for good measure, and you should be good to add fish.
 
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You should point your powerheads at the surface, the surface is too flat and collecting debris. All that debris cuts the oxygen exchange and cuts the light penetration. Good surface agitation is very important.

What is the nitrate level? This is the most important info.... if the nitrates are up to 20-30, to me that is a cycled tank. I would do a water change and add the first fish. Just one or two fish, then wait a month for the next addition, then another month for the next addition, etc...
 
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Yeah have both output nozzles on surface, think I need more?
Tom,
I looked at your AIO tank thread and would Ike to see how you used the fluval 107 canister filter with respect to filter compartments in your AIO.
@Tom735
Would you take a picture of your tank from the top and side with white light? How did you adjust flow into back filter compartments?

Is suction of canister filter able to increase flow into the back filter compartments. If so, this would assist with removing surface scum.
You should point your powerheads at the surface, the surface is too flat and collecting debris. All that debris cuts teh oxygen exchange and cuts the light penetration. Good surface agitation is very important.

What is the nitrate level? This is the most important info.... if the nitrates are up to 20-30, to me that is a cycled tank. I would do a water change and add the first fish. Just one or two fish, then wait a month for the next addition, then another month for the next addition, etc...
kudoes.
 
Tom,
I looked at your AIO tank thread and would Ike to see how you used the fluval 107 canister filter with respect to filter compartments in your AIO.
@Tom735
Would you take a picture of your tank from the top and side with white light? How did you adjust flow into back filter compartments?

Is suction of canister filter able to increase flow into the back filter compartments. If so, this would assist with removing surface scum.

kudoes.
Hi! I have attached pictures of the tank, the AIO section was getting basically zero flow so added the 107 not sure if I have it placed good or not, it is on max flow, the outlet is at the back pushing water down the pump
The AIO part is just basically an open back which I find annoying
IMG_0270.jpeg IMG_0271.jpeg IMG_0272.jpeg IMG_0273.jpeg IMG_0274.jpeg
 
You should point your powerheads at the surface, the surface is too flat and collecting debris. All that debris cuts the oxygen exchange and cuts the light penetration. Good surface agitation is very important.

What is the nitrate level? This is the most important info.... if the nitrates are up to 20-30, to me that is a cycled tank. I would do a water change and add the first fish. Just one or two fish, then wait a month for the next addition, then another month for the next addition, etc...
Thanks for your reply, I tested nitrates and was sky high but have heard that nitrate test will always be high if the tank has nitrites? So was waiting for nitrites to bottom out first but haven’t moved
 
Thanks for your reply, I tested nitrates and was sky high but have heard that nitrate test will always be high if the tank has nitrites? So was waiting for nitrites to bottom out first but haven’t moved
4-5 weeks is longer than most cycles last.... and you also say the nitrite is 3-5 only, to me, thats close enough to zero.
 
4-5 weeks is longer than most cycles last.... and you also say the nitrite is 3-5 only, to me, thats close enough to zero.
IMG_0250.jpeg



Have uploaded test results from couple days ago, using API test kit
Tank has been set up since first week of November
 
But thats a couple of days ago, it could be different now. If you can test again and also test the nitrate.

I don't even test ammonia/nitrite, when I see nitrate hit 20+, to me thats a cycled tank.
 
But thats a couple of days ago, it could be different now. If you can test again and also test the nitrate.

I don't even test ammonia/nitrite, when I see nitrate hit 20+, to me thats a cycled tank.
IMG_0276.jpeg
IMG_0277.jpeg



Tested just now, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
Took 2 pictures in different lightning
 
The big take away here is that nitrites have no bearing on fish in saltwater, so as long as ammonia is 0 or very low you are good.

With that said. I waited to get 0 nitrite when I cycled my tank. During this time I messed around and tested phosphate which was 0 on a hannah test. After researching and knowing that nitrate cant be metabolized without some phosphate and that bacteria also use organic carbon to grow and reduce ammonia, nitrite and nitrate I decided to add something during the long wait of the nitrite phase 2 weeks at this point. I put in some reef roids just about a 1/4 teaspoon. I had read reef roids usually raised phosphates in peoples tanks and I had some. After about 5-6 hrs of adding the rr I could read phosphate on the hannah not much .03 but it was more than the test before which was 0.0. The next day nitrites went from 5 to 3. I didnt add anymore rr that day and tested both nitrite 3 and phosphate 0.0 the next day. The following day same readings added another 1/4 teaspoon of rr and again I saw phosphate rise and next day nitrite decrease to around .25. I was not in a hurry to cycle the tank and I didnt care that nitrite didnt have a negative effect on sw fish I wanted my tank to have gone through a complete cycle and to be able to handle whatever I threw at it. I started with all dry rock and sand so I wanted to make sure. I understand this is not a controlled experiment and it could have been a number of things that had actually happened. For reference my tank is 120g of actual water volume. So if you decide to do this dont use as much rr as I did. Also I dont think rr is the only thing you could add some flake food might just be all you need I had just read multiple threads that talked about rr raising phosphates. I have no idea if it was the phosphates that helped or if just some other component spurred the ability of the bacteria to process the nitrite. At the end of this my nitrates were only 10. I also added more ammonia to see how fast it would be broken down and that was about 24hrs to readable nitrates.
 
IMG_0276.jpeg
IMG_0277.jpeg



Tested just now, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
Took 2 pictures in different lightning
Your nitrate is high because of the nitrite like you said above. Nitrate can not be tested accurately when nitrite is in abundance.
 
Your cycled. Without getting long winded on it your cycled. Big big thread on this forum discussing this provided alot of info for me I would suggest reading it.

Good luck with your reefing journey!
 
Thanks guys, appreciate all the help a lot!!
Hopefully make a trip to the LFS next weekend, my stocking plan is 2 clowns and a valentine puffer, not sure which order to put them in

The tank did come with a little protein skimmer which I’m unsure if to use or not, any recommendations to get rid of the surface film?
 
Thanks guys, appreciate all the help a lot!!
Hopefully make a trip to the LFS next weekend, my stocking plan is 2 clowns and a valentine puffer, not sure which order to put them in

The tank did come with a little protein skimmer which I’m unsure if to use or not, any recommendations to get rid of the surface film?
direct flow at the surface. If you have a skimmer yes why not use it. I would not worry about it right now but after you add fish sure. How is the water removed from the display? I read somewhere above its an aio but you are also using a canister filter?
 

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