Tank Is Now Poop Brown???

[ajremington68]

What I see id dead hair algae, wall, maybe flagellates or Lyngbya opposed to dino, but do below and you get results with this as well as dino, should any be present:
Pull as much susbstance as you can by hand, siphon and blow areas loose with a turkey baster
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 3 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

I got a odd question for ya, I did the 48hr blackout last night and the night before and I lost a flame angel and blue sided wrasse and both have been in tank for a while and super healthy… so if I have a fear after that could I leave the lights on the tank on and just run them low and dose the hydrogen and bacteria?

I was running 3 viparspectre at 5%white and 50% blue I have cut all the white, could I turn blue to like 25% or if I don’t blackout it doesn’t matter to turn it down?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I got a odd question for ya, I did the 48hr blackout last night and the night before and I lost a flame angel and blue sided wrasse and both have been in tank for a while and super healthy… so if I have a fear after that could I leave the lights on the tank on and just run them low and dose the hydrogen and bacteria?

I was running 3 viparspectre at 5%white and 50% blue I have cut all the white, could I turn blue to like 25% or if I don’t blackout it doesn’t matter to turn it down?

Your lighting is acceptable and the substance on the surfaces may be releasing low level toxins- reason to clean/blow the stuff off and siphon out. Adding liquid bacteria will get rid of the bad bacteria

 

[ajremington68]

Your lighting is acceptable and the substance on the surfaces may be releasing low level toxins- reason to clean/blow the stuff off and siphon out. Adding liquid bacteria will get rid of the bad bacteria

Okay I have 2 difference bottles bacteria so I will send photos and you can tell me which is better to use and I shall.

Which would you use? I think I have enough of both to do the full cycles worth.

Also to clearify I can do your recipe of hydrogen and bacteria for however long I need and leave my lights on with blues at only 25%. Then if nothing is changing after a week or two I can access and maybe do a 3-5day blackout.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay I have 2 difference bottles bacteria so I will send photos and you can tell me which is better to use and I shall.

Which would you use? I think I have enough of both to do the full cycles worth.

Also to clearify I can do your recipe of hydrogen and bacteria for however long I need and leave my lights on with blues at only 25%. Then if nothing is changing after a week or two I can access and maybe do a 3-5day blackout.

Both are perfect

 

[ajremington68]

Both are perfect

alrighty, will keep posted with bumps in the road if there is any or the finished product.

 

[goosemans]

Nuisance Algae ID Guide- Reef Cleaners

Nuisance Algae ID Guide. Red Slime, Cyano, Cyanobacteria. Green Film Algae, Film Algae. Green Hair Algae. Green Turf Algae. Bryopsis pennata and B. plumosa. Bubble Algae, Valonia. Lobophora. Blue Green Cyano.

www.reefcleaners.org

 

[ajremington68]

Nuisance Algae ID Guide- Reef Cleaners

Nuisance Algae ID Guide. Red Slime, Cyano, Cyanobacteria. Green Film Algae, Film Algae. Green Hair Algae. Green Turf Algae. Bryopsis pennata and B. plumosa. Bubble Algae, Valonia. Lobophora. Blue Green Cyano.

www.reefcleaners.org

Bought 30 astrea snails, 5 turbos, 3 urchins, and have a handful of large hermits in there. Bought them a month ago and they can not put a dent in it. But I also don't want to buy 100s and then they do beat it and then all starve out. Goal is to get it down or away so my crew can keep it down and away if it rears its head and clean up detritus. Also I find that dinos and cyano in the past CUC would rather not touch it...

 

[ajremington68]

Nuisance Algae ID Guide- Reef Cleaners

Nuisance Algae ID Guide. Red Slime, Cyano, Cyanobacteria. Green Film Algae, Film Algae. Green Hair Algae. Green Turf Algae. Bryopsis pennata and B. plumosa. Bubble Algae, Valonia. Lobophora. Blue Green Cyano.

www.reefcleaners.org

OHHH i see this is a guide disregard that appreciate this.

 

[Reef Puncher]

Sooo My tank looks like this... The The Rundown is I have had cyano or what I believe it is. I bought chemi clean and did 18 scoops on my 180, cut UV and no skimmer on yet, added airators and waited 48hrs. Surprise no change... So I did a 20g water change (siphoned sand with the 20g) and put the rest of chemi clean in (12 scoops) same process but this time I turned the lights off. I am at about 25-26hr mark and it looks like this, but the sand and rocks are almost completely clean... So I believe all the poop to be cyano that lifted from the rock and sand and is now in the water column. I am heating roughly 35-40g of water but we will say 35g to play safe to do of a water change tomorrow on the 48hr mark. My question is would you turn back on your lights after the water change or wait a few hours after and see what the tank looks like? I do have some corals in there that I rather not lose so I don't know how long I can go without lights. Or could I turn my light cycle down? (I have already turned all whites off and I am running a 10hr pierod with no ramp because viper spectre...)

Any thoughts or comments I would love to hear. Also if you have dealt with this I would pay for your intel on tips...

its algae and either diatoms or dino. honestly impossible to say without a microscope. i always recomend to every salt water owner, to get a microscope. because protocols are completeley different depending on what the issue is.
if its algae and diatoms, decrease nutrients, cleaner water, no silicates in water through good RODI and manual removal and clean up crews would help. less white light. less long light photoperiod. if no corals, a blackout would help.

if its dino, then you dont want to decrease nutrients and clean water. and you do want silicates and diatoms. so it just depends what the stuff is. but for dino also reducing white light and overall photoperiod.

 

[ajremington68]

its algae and either diatoms or dino. honestly impossible to say without a microscope. i always recomend to every salt water owner, to get a microscope. because protocols are completeley different depending on what the issue is.
if its algae and diatoms, decrease nutrients, cleaner water, no silicates in water through good RODI and manual removal and clean up crews would help. less white light. less long light photoperiod. if no corals, a blackout would help.

if its dino, then you dont want to decrease nutrients and clean water. and you do want silicates and diatoms. so it just depends what the stuff is. but for dino also reducing white light and overall photoperiod.

Deng, its almost christmas so going to look on amazon or the marketplace for a little microscope.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Bought 30 astrea snails, 5 turbos, 3 urchins, and have a handful of large hermits in there. Bought them a month ago and they can not put a dent in it. But I also don't want to buy 100s and then they do beat it and then all starve out. Goal is to get it down or away so my crew can keep it down and away if it rears its head and clean up detritus. Also I find that dinos and cyano in the past CUC would rather not touch it...

This is more than an algae issue and snails will likely Not touch this stuff

 

[Reef Puncher]

Deng, its almost christmas so going to look on amazon or the marketplace for a little microscope.

just a heads up the cheap $30 ones wont zoom in enough to identify species. this is prob the cheapest one that has the correct magnifications. here

 

[ajremington68]

@DenverSaltyFarm @vetteguy53081 @Reef Puncher
Day 2 of H2O2 with lower light intensity and bacteria. Night and day from my initial post and the photos of it. Slowly coming along FOR sure. And got a reading on Hanna Phosphate ULR of 0.47 which I have never got under 0.9 on it so Its a big day. Thinking of shooting for 0.1-0.2 for phosphates and keep it stable there closer to 0.1.

Just keep pushinnnnnnn!!! Corals soon doe.

 

[vetteguy53081]

@DenverSaltyFarm @vetteguy53081 @Reef Puncher
Day 2 of H2O2 with lower light intensity and bacteria. Night and day from my initial post and the photos of it. Slowly coming along FOR sure. And got a reading on Hanna Phosphate ULR of 0.47 which I have never got under 0.9 on it so Its a big day. Thinking of shooting for 0.1-0.2 for phosphates and keep it stable there closer to 0.1.

Just keep pushinnnnnnn!!! Corals soon doe.

.1 on po4 a good area/range. Good improvement- leave those lights off- It'll be worth it

 

[ajremington68]

.1 on po4 a good area/range. Good improvement- leave those lights off- It'll be worth it

Lights have been on BUT only at 25% blues and on for a 8hr pierod. The question is I want to get the lights turned back up for corals and introduce back the whites because I like a white tank for the fish so much. How do you do that? I know slowly but slowly turn up blue then whites, or whites then blue, or both together? Also how long should I do it over? 1% over a week or 2 or month? I know this in the future just trying to get a idea for how long I'll be waiting to get it back to what I had it at.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Lights have been on BUT only at 25% blues and on for a 8hr pierod. The question is I want to get the lights turned back up for corals and introduce back the whites because I like a white tank for the fish so much. How do you do that? I know slowly but slowly turn up blue then whites, or whites then blue, or both together? Also how long should I do it over? 1% over a week or 2 or month? I know this in the future just trying to get a idea for how long I'll be waiting to get it back to what I had it at.

You must go the 5 days with no lights or the substance will come back. I understand the likes of the bright light but you have to go dark for this short period of time. 8 hrs a day is in essence too many hours

 

[ajremington68]

You must go the 5 days with no lights or the substance will come back. I understand the likes of the bright light but you have to go dark for this short period of time. 8 hrs a day is in essence too many hours

Ugh I just have a fear because I lost 2 fish on my last blackout. But my tank is in the basement so it was a BLACK Blackout. Maybe I need to put a lamp by the tank so they have some light. Also, there is a lot less of whatever type of algae, so if the algae created toxins and caused it there shouldn't be enough to do that again.

Also I have 2 Big Chicago sunburst nems, big elegance, and 3 or 4 bigger softys in there I don't want to lose. You think they will be fine without light for 5 days?!? I can move the elegance and softys to a different tank possible but not the nems.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ugh I just have a fear because I lost 2 fish on my last blackout. But my tank is in the basement so it was a BLACK Blackout. Maybe I need to put a lamp by the tank so they have some light. Also, there is a lot less of whatever type of algae, so if the algae created toxins and caused it there shouldn't be enough to do that again.

Also I have 2 Big Chicago sunburst nems, big elegance, and 3 or 4 bigger softys in there I don't want to lose. You think they will be fine without light for 5 days?!? I can move the elegance and softys to a different tank possible but not the nems.

ambient light is good with lamp. For coral, as mentioned, you can go up to 10% blue max