Tank transfer method?

coronarex · Oct 31, 2018

I have read about this in the Reef Hobbyist mag. as a method to quarantine. How effective is this method. Wouldn’t you still want to go fallow just to be safe? Seems legit but also seems like a lot of work considering there is a water change daily. Also what exactly do ppl use to “sanitize” the tanks, after each tank transfer that is. Thanks

Gareth elliott · Oct 31, 2018

I used for the addition of my wrasse to my tank.

It was a lot of water changes. Its a 14 day process. Works for ich, does not work for velvet. I did in a room with tile thats on a slab.

So my biggest issue was ammonia control. Get yourself a badge or seneye. I cycled quite a few sponges for my aquaclear filters just for this.

Sanitized with bleach water, to ensure no chlorine was left sprayed the tanks with prime before refilling. Do not over feed, or skip a water change.

Breaks the life cycle of ich so for this parasite is very effective if done properly

That said used CP for my last fish since wasnt a sensitive species. Much less work and treats more diseases, but not for every fish.

scuzy · Oct 31, 2018

I use it all the time. I don't even run bleach. I just sorry rinse tank dry and let it sit for 2 days. The ich won't survive being dry out for two days.

Smprc · Nov 2, 2018

I agree with Scuzy, you don't necessarily need to run bleach, just rinse the equipment out IMMEDIATELY. With that said, I do use a little bleach from time to time especially if the tank sat and I wasn't able to rinse it out right away. I believe @Humblefish has an excellent thread on TTM. I used it for my first several fish. It is a pain in the butt, but as far as I know, I have no ich in my tank. I have a "difficult" achilles tang and he is doing aweseom. I add Prazi twice on the correct days and so far I have had no issues. The ammonia should not be a problem they are only in the tank for 3 days. Just don't over feed, use a little prime if you are worried, but I have not had a single fish die from ammonia burn or spike. You dont want filter bio load media because you can't use it after words (it has to be cleaned and dried etc...) as it got wet and can have the parasite on it. Anyways, like I said, its a bit of a pain in the butt, but well worth it if you aim to attempt to eradicate ich from your DT. As a side note, I am now doing what Gareth is ...i'm going CP. Keep in mind that after you do the 14 day TTM, you should place them in a more "permanent" QT for observation for an additional 2 weeks.

andrewkw · Nov 2, 2018

I have 2 TTM going now (4 tanks). I also don't use bleach. I rinse the tanks heaters and pvc pipes with tap water then I stick a fan on the tank and it dries in hours. I've never had ich after TTM and I used it once years ago when my tank was infected. You still have to go follow after the TTM is complete. I've never had an issue with ammonia in 3 days. You are unlikely to unless you are filling the tank with food or have some really large fish. I have a small trigger and angel in one tank now and 2 maroons in the other. I don't overfeed and don't have any issues.

This is also a great time to treat with prazipro since they are going into new water in 72 hours anyway. Once TTM is complete I observe them for another few weeks - This is when I will be more concerned with ammonia but I'll add a sponge filter at this time if it's more then 1 or 2 small fish. Since I am doing weekly water changes on my display I usually just use old water since my tank is disease free. I also have a fishless frag system where I can take water.

TTM is a great first step in the quarantine process, however if you suspect velvet you are probably better to go straight to copper. Combing ttm with prazipro takes care of flukes and most but not all internal parasites.

saltyhog · Nov 2, 2018

I use 3 different 10 gallon tanks ($10 each at Petco) so I'm sure the tanks are dry for at least 48 hours between use. I have rarely had to do a water change, and then only when I pushed the bioload a little. Feed lightly during the 12 days and siphon out any uneaten food(shouldn't be any if you feed correctly) and monitor ammonia closely. I may add an ammonia detoxifier like Amquel on the second day of each tank. On the third day I feed heavily right before the transfer since the fish will be coming out of that tank a few minutes later.

I've had great success doing it and still use it for fish that don't tolerate CP such as flasher wrasses.

Huskymaniac · Nov 2, 2018

I have been using a modified ttm method. First 2 weeks observe and treat with prazi. Look for signs of velvet, etc. On day 14 treat with copper. On day 28 remove fish into clean water and acclimate into display. This way you treat for flukes, observe for velvet, and because of the ick life cycle the copper treatmant breaks it if there is a latent infection. By doing a ttm while copper is still in the water the ick parasite will not survive. I also have started feeding metro and kanaplex during this time frame.

LovesDogs_CatsRokay · Nov 2, 2018

I've done TTM on 3 fish now. I prefer it over copper. Copper and worrying about its perfect levels, not too high, not too low, stressed me out far more than having to make water and dump the tubs every couple days. I just use 2 plastic 16 gallon tubs, and put 10 gallons worth of water in them with a heater, air stone, and 2 pieces of pvc. I do mine in the basement on the concrete floor so its as easy as dumping the tub down the floor drain and laying the equipment out to dry. I haven't had any detectable ammonia levels raise up, but i've only done it with small fish. For larger fish it might be more of a problem. On my most recent fish, I dosed API General Cure instead of Prazi on the last night before transfers 2 and 4. And I have a fully cycled 30 gallon QT for them to hang out in for a couple weeks after TTM is over before moving to the DT.