temperature controller w/ less than 1 degree precision

SeeFu

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i've been using this controller in my qt system


is there a controller that has better than 1 degree precision without spending a lot on an apex? I know they make a controller with 0.1 degree precision, but their probe doesn't work in salt water.

Amazon product
 

fragit

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I set my inkbird to Celsius to get a bit better control.
I used to do that too, then after the sixth replacement I bailed on them. They are cheap and work well for about 4 months then accuracy deviates. Spend your money on better quality up front, it will save frustration and livestock.
 

KStatefan

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i've been using this controller in my qt system


is there a controller that has better than 1 degree precision without spending a lot on an apex? I know they make a controller with 0.1 degree precision, but their probe doesn't work in salt water.

Amazon product



Use some shrink tube to make the probe work in salt water
 
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SeeFu

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I used to do that too, then after the sixth replacement I bailed on them. They are cheap and work well for about 4 months then accuracy deviates. Spend your money on better quality up front, it will save frustration and livestock.
you were most likely using the controller w/ the stainless steel probe. thats about how long they last.
 

KStatefan

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Is there a unit from Ranco that can control both heating and chilling on one unit?


Ranco has a two stage unit but I think it is 1 degree F differential like the single stage.
 

ca1ore

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If you use a setback of 1 on the Ranco, it will turn on/off within a degree. Mine, for example, for a chiller, goes on at 79.9 and off at 79.3. Obviously the apex can be programmed with whatever setback you want (including no setback), but that's an expensive way to go.
 
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SeeFu

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couldn't i just wrap a nitrile glove around the sensor? Or does nitrile gloves dissolve over time in salt water?
 

The0wn4g3

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Get rid of the Inkbird and get a Ranco, you won't regret it. Be sure to apply heat shrink to the probe for use in saltwater, instructions are on the Ranco website. Or, if you're DIY savvy, you can use an STC-1000. I went this route and see about a 0.2 degree celcius swing in a 24 hour period.

 
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SeeFu

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i have a controller that has a sensitivity of 0.1F. it just doesn't have a saltwater proof sensor so i'm trying to figure out how to get that done.
 

The0wn4g3

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i have a controller that has a sensitivity of 0.1F. it just doesn't have a saltwater proof sensor so i'm trying to figure out how to get that done.

Heat Shrink is an option (see link below). I coated my stainless steel probe with clear 100% silicon. It has held up well for the last few months. Just put some on my finger and spread an even coat all over the probe, let dry for 48 hours, and put it in the tank.

 

KStatefan

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i have a controller that has a sensitivity of 0.1F. it just doesn't have a saltwater proof sensor so i'm trying to figure out how to get that done.

heat shrink
stainless steel thermowell
pot it in epoxy
 

blackstallion

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Get rid of the Inkbird and get a Ranco, you won't regret it. Be sure to apply heat shrink to the probe for use in saltwater, instructions are on the Ranco website. Or, if you're DIY savvy, you can use an STC-1000. I went this route and see about a 0.2 degree celcius swing in a 24 hour period.

I'm seeing multiple variations of the STC-100 on Amazon, including an Inkbird branded one. Do you know if they're basically all the same?

I'm considering doing this build. How has it been running so far?
 

The0wn4g3

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I'm seeing multiple variations of the STC-100 on Amazon, including an Inkbird branded one. Do you know if they're basically all the same?

I'm considering doing this build. How has it been running so far?

I believe they are basically all the same. I avoided the Inkbird one because I had so many issues with the Inkbird controller and heater, and I don't mind working in Celsius.

I love the STC-1000 (attached the one I bought). I have it set at 25.7 C (78.26 F). The heater comes on at 25.6 C, fan at 25.8 C. I have a secondary temperature probe in the tank and they always match, so I don't believe there has been any drift. Would 100% recommend if you're comfortable with DIY electronics.

If you don't want to DIY, I would recommend the dual stage Ranco Controller. Silicon or heatshrink the probe and its good to go in saltwater and (from what I've read) very reliable.

20200722_212419.jpg
 
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blackstallion

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I believe they are basically all the same. I avoided the Inkbird one because I had so many issues with the Inkbird controller and heater, and I don't mind working in Celsius.

I love the STC-1000 (attached the one I bought). I have it set at 25.7 C (78.26 F). The heater comes on at 25.6 C, fan at 25.8 C. I have a secondary temperature probe in the tank and they always match, so I don't believe there has been any drift. Would 100% recommend if you're comfortable with DIY electronics.

If you don't want to DIY, I would recommend the dual stage Ranco Controller. Silicon or heatshrink the probe and its good to go in saltwater and (from what I've read) very reliable.

20200722_212419.jpg
I've done a little electrical work so I'll be comfortable with this . Question is, my current temperature controller for my Aquatop 800w Titanium heater is the Aquatop DDC-800 controller. I assume there would be no reason to leave that controller inline between the STC-1000 and the heater?
 

blackstallion

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I believe they are basically all the same. I avoided the Inkbird one because I had so many issues with the Inkbird controller and heater, and I don't mind working in Celsius.

I love the STC-1000 (attached the one I bought). I have it set at 25.7 C (78.26 F). The heater comes on at 25.6 C, fan at 25.8 C. I have a secondary temperature probe in the tank and they always match, so I don't believe there has been any drift. Would 100% recommend if you're comfortable with DIY electronics.

If you don't want to DIY, I would recommend the dual stage Ranco Controller. Silicon or heatshrink the probe and its good to go in saltwater and (from what I've read) very reliable.

20200722_212419.jpg
What about the Bayite? What is the advantage of buying the STC-1000 and all the separate components to assemble it when the Bayite comes assembled? Does the STC-1000 have additional functionality, accuracy or dependability?

Amazon product
 

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