The Upgrade Build... From 110 to 180

TheWB

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Aquascape idea #1 (1st attempt)

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It looks cool, I like it. Is it functional for the types of coral you want to keep?
 
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Dj City

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Now I have to figure out how to make some of this structure solid without looking ugly with off colored epoxy.
The structure looks nice (to me) but it is carefully balanced. It is NOT together where it won't fall apart if I breathe too hard
If I look at it too long it will fall.

Any suggestions?
 
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Dj City

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I decided to use Jurassic gel and E-Marco 400 to put my scape together.

Jurassic gel first then reinforced with the cement.

Should work out real well (I hope).
 
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Dj City

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Today I completed my algae reactor.

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If it turns out that this reactor is not enough for the 180, I will build another one and run them in series.
The algae reactor along with my UV will be fed from the manifold I will be building.

I may have some questions for the community about how to best go about building the manifold and how to incorporate the Apex FMK.
 
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Dj City

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FRAG TANK BUILD
(Secondary build to the 180)
I wound up getting a petco 20 long for $20.
Got a aqueon quiet flow hob filter rated for 50 gallons (repurposed from an old broken down tank)
I put a 200w heater in the tank.
I put 4 pillars of Stax rocks 3 deep in the tank to serve as risers for the eggcrate and to help with bacteria population (nitrogen cycle)
I added bio spira, microbacter7 and Dr Tim's Ammonia to start the cycle.
For flow, I added 1 mp10 toward the top right side of the tank and a Tunze 6105 on the bottom left under the eggcrate.
I found a GalaxyHydro 165w for $50 that will light the tank.
 
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Dj City

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992356

20 long frag tank.
Just set this up.
The light you see is coming from the bare bottom 40 breeder qt tank above it.
I have a GalaxyHydro 156w led that is not mounted at this point.

I think I will get some miracle mud or fiji mud for this frag tank. I have Dinos in my 110 gallon DT and I have some nice corals that I don't want to ditch. The brand new 180 gallon replaces the 110 gal. the corals from the 110 will go into the frag tank after a good dip and new frag plugs where appropriate.
Maybe if I can get enough biodiversity in the frag tank, the dinos will be starved out and I can add them to the new build.

This pic shows the QT tank with the frag tank underneath.
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Dj City

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The GalaxyHydro is mounted.
With blues on 100% and the white ch. barely on, I get average 390 par. I can crank up the whites and get nto the 500's but no need for that.
Par drops to 190 to 220 at the far ends of the tank.

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Par Readings...

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Dj City

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I repurposed an old Aquaclear 110 hob filter to use as a hob refugium.
I ordered a light off ebay that MANY in the nano community have recommended.
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I wish fiji mud were still available. I would use it for biodiversity in the fuge. It's pretty much impossible to get true live rock nowadays so fiji mud would have been real helpful.
I sure can't use my existing live rock. It has dinos.
 
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March 16th, 2019

Most of the corals that im trying to save have been moved into the frag tank.
It looks crazy because it's not a big enough tank but I did what I could do with what I had.
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Dj City

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March 18th, 2029

I hooked the Reefbot up to the frag tank.
Easy automatic water testing.
It will be moved to the 180 when the time comes.
 
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March 20th, 2019

I had to break out my old Jeabo dose pump for the frag tank.
I'm dropping about 3 dkh within 24 hours

I will be dosing Seachem fusion 1 & 2 for calcium, alk and mag.
 
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I have decided to use my Jeabo DCP 10000 return pump for my manifold.
The issue I'm having is with plumbing. I have a 3/4 inch fitting from the output of the pump. I'm not sure how to proceed from here because I "think" I want 1 inch piping. I have the Apex FMK that comes with one 1 inch sensor. That will be on the return line. It also comes with two 1/2 inch sensors. I'm not sure where I need to place them.

I could use a little help with this.

EDIT...

I think i figured out how to run my manifold.

I run 3/4 inch PVC pipe from the pump and use 3/4 to 1/2 inch Tee's with a true union between each Tee.
From the 1/2 inch Tee pointing down, I add a gate valve. After the gate valve, I add the flow monitor then an elbow to direct the pipe wherever I need it to go.
I might use a few elbows to get the pipe back up towards the top of the stand so it's still neat and everything is accessible.
This is a VERY rough sketch of my initial idea.
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Any suggestions?
Too many unions?
Anything I should change or modify?
 
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Dj City

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I was trying to wait for Apex Trident but....
Reefbot is starting to look like a viable option for automatic testing.
 
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Dj City

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I ordered the Reef Kinetics ReefBot.
It tests more parameters than the Apex Trident and...
It's Available!!!

I may still get the Triton in the future but for now, I hope the ReefBot lives up to it's claims.
I can't see why it wouldn't.
 
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Dj City

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About my manifold...

This is pretty much what I have in mind for the manifold. It will have 4 tee's and end with the ball valve.
Anyone see any problems, issues or anything I should change?

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Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 43 34.7%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 39 31.5%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 31 25.0%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.8%
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