Time for first water change???

[Steven9194]

Have a 125g, 2 week old aquarium with two clowns and I was wondering what I should be looking for to determine if I need to do a water change.

Started with DR. Tim’s and have a ton of copepods waiting in another enclosure to add to the tank. Just not exactly sure on when to add them either.

I’ve attached every test, which I did just about every two days. Any advice is appreciated!

Salinity 1.026
PH 8.0
Ammonia >.25
Nitrites .50
Nitrates 10
Phosphates .18

 

[Steven9194]

Have a 125g, 2 week old aquarium with two clowns and I was wondering what I should be looking for to determine if I need to do a water change.

Started with DR. Tim’s and have a ton of copepods waiting in another enclosure to add to the tank. Just not exactly sure on when to add them either.

I’ve attached every test, which I did just about every two days. Any advice is appreciated!

Salinity 1.026
PH 8.0
Ammonia >.25
Nitrites .50
Nitrates 10
Phosphates .18

 

[FUNGI]

I would wait till ammon and nitirites hit the 0 mark,,,,,

 

[KrisReef]

The test tube colors look pretty consistent to my eye over the course of your testing. How are you measuring phosphate?

Is this going to be a fish tank or a reef tank? If you just have 2 clownfish in a 125 it can probably go a month without a water change and the fish will be fine.

I would add at least some of the pods now, at night to let them get established in your tank.

 

[PotatoPig]

Is this the same tank your tang passed away in?

/not a criticism, more asking if you have multiple active tanks or if this is a first foray into tropical saltwater.

Also:

1. Do you have live rock or dry rock to start?
2. Do you have lights on it?
3. What is your filtration system (sump/skimmer/etc)

 

[Steven9194]

Is this the same tank your tang passed away in?

/not a criticism, more asking if you have multiple active tanks or if this is a first foray into tropical saltwater.

Also:

1. Do you have live rock or dry rock to start?
2. Do you have lights on it?
3. What is your filtration system (sump/skimmer/etc)

This is the same tank. The fish were all introduced together. This is the first time in saltwater.

I used dry rock.
I do not have any lights on.
I have 32g sump. Skimmer which is running but no cup. Have marine rock in the center compartment, then just the return pump.

 

[Steven9194]

The test tube colors look pretty consistent to my eye over the course of your testing. How are you measuring phosphate?

Is this going to be a fish tank or a reef tank? If you just have 2 clownfish in a 125 it can probably go a month without a water change and the fish will be fine.

I would add at least some of the pods now, at night to let them get established in your tank.

Measured the phosphate with a Hannah checker. This is going to be a reef tank.

 

[Steven9194]

I would wait till ammon and nitirites hit the 0 mark,,,,,

The ammonia I’m pretty sure is at 0. But the ATI test kit I was told will never show 0.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I would wait till ammon and nitirites hit the 0 mark,,,,,

Disregard nitrates and if ammonia says 0.25, may be a little higher. Phosphates are a little up there and according to tests, you can do a water5 change of 20$ or so as soon as this weekend

 

[PotatoPig]

This is the same tank. The fish were all introduced together. This is the first time in saltwater.

I used dry rock.
I do not have any lights on.
I have 32g sump. Skimmer which is running but no cup. Have marine rock in the center compartment, then just the return pump.

My 2c:

While FOWLR you probably don’t need to water change much at all, especially with a skimmer, and especially with a tiny bioload such as you have at the moment. Once every couple months would be plenty for your current fish load. Maybe less even.

Until you put reef lights on you’ll have minimal algae, no matter the nutrients.

Once you turn your lights on expect algae. This is normal. Everyone gets it, apparently especially starting with dry rock.

You will go through a series of algae as your nutrient profile changes and biome evolves. For many types it’ll either spur growth of some sort of pods that’ll eat it, or you’ll add snails that’ll eat it. Eventually it’ll stabilize. Eg I went through Calothrix (eaten by snails) then Bryopsis/Red Cyano (eventually eaten by pods) and then Green Cyano (caused by low nutrients due to all the nutrient export from the previous algae waves and was brought under control by manual removal, adding conches and nerite snails and bringing nutrients back up a little)

There’s a few folks who sell clean up crew - I’ve had good experience with Reefcleaners, along with LFS adds.

You have a rock compartment in your sump? If so this is a great breeding ground for pods. Either add them now, or wait for them to come in on clean up crew. Many species will eat detritus.

For pods - add Tisbe pods if you have them handy, these colonize and thrive in reef tanks. Pods that come in on live rock, snails, hermits and frags also thrive in these tanks. Tigger pods are good for culturing but don’t thrive - they get wiped out immediately by planktivores because they’re big, and free swimmers and don’t hide. If you want an ultra burger way to get biodiversity of pods ask your LFS for a scoop of empty hermit/snail shells. These will have wild pods on them. You flatly wouldn’t keep these out if you try. They’ll get in eventually. Which is good as they’re a foundational part of your tanks food pyramid.