Time sensitive- Need some help please - Epoxy Floor coatings

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I used Rustoleums epoxy shield garage floor kit to finish the floor in a utility room I am putting a frag system in. Unfortunately some how, due to weather related pressures, the RODI water ran backwards from my storage tank and spit out through the wall over night and leaked water on the floor as the floor was curing. So now I need to reapply an entire second coat, that’s not a big deal, what’s another $100 in reefing. But here is the issue- I cannot find any concrete support of how and when to apply a second coat. The next I can tell is I have to do this before the 24 hour mark, I am at hour 13. I’ve read people talk about that after 24 hours you have to sand and wash with acetone. Since I am not outside 24 hours I am assuming I can just reapply a second coat? Anyone have any insight?

My RODI unit was mounted in this room I disconnected it to hang and paint plywood. I left the connecting sticking out, I didn’t think to hit the shutoff valve at the container.

I know I will have to spot hit that area with acid wash, to clean it up. Being that it is water based, it broke that area down. The area leading to that spot has cured. I caught it at 1 am but the damage was down and the floor wash still tacky so I couldn’t get out to it to dry it.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Maybe Chat GPT to the rescue. Because of the chips, I have to sand, vacuum and then use a tacky cloth or damp mop, then reapply. This is pretty easy. See ya in a few hours.

 

[Hishman]

I work a lot more with vinyl ester resins on boats but the chemistry is similar.

At 12 hours you are most likely way past the point of surface cure on most epoxies. Best bet is to look on the container and it will tell you usually two times. A “dry to touch” and full cure. It’s risky to apply a second layer without sanding once the epoxy is no longer tacky as the second layer can’t form a chemical bond and is limited to mechanical. Without sanding there isn’t much “tooth” for the coat to lock into.

If you can dig your nail into it and it’s tacky/soft still you are ok to apply a second layer. Those chips will be visible though and probably won’t look great epoxied over.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I work a lot more with vinyl ester resins on boats but the chemistry is similar.

At 12 hours you are most likely way past the point of surface cure on most epoxies. Best bet is to look on the container and it will tell you usually two times. A “dry to touch” and full cure. It’s risky to apply a second layer without sanding once the epoxy is no longer tacky as the second layer can’t form a chemical bond and is limited to mechanical. Without sanding there isn’t much “tooth” for the coat to lock into.

If you can dig your nail into it and it’s tacky/soft still you are ok to apply a second layer. Those chips will be visible though and probably won’t look great epoxied over.

Hishman, thank you! I would up sanding it with 80 grit, I scuff it up really good. Got dusty and had to vacuum it up. I actually could let tell chips were there for the most part, then again, the floor isn’t great. I found different colored chips I could sub the OEM ones for, black gray and white. Looks much better. Thanks for taking a second and helping me out.