Time to Change DI Resin?

[Joe Knows Reefs]

So I have an Air, Water, & Ice "Typhoon 3. A five stage RO/DI unit...

After less than a year (~10 months) I change the sediment filter and both carbon blocks. I replace with a 5micron sediment, a 1micron carbon, and a 5micron carbon. I didn't change any DI resin...

Before the exchange my TDS was around 3-4 and now it's still 3-4...

Should I exchange my DI resin too? This is my first time exchanging filters on the RODI unit...

Thanks!

PS - My water source uses chloramines in case that matters...

 

[btkrausen]

Its $10 for a refill of DI, not worth questioning or risking bad water really.

FWIW, you could measure TDS before the DI, and then after, and see if its making a difference.

 

[greg0385]

for 10 dollars i would change it all and make sure your pressure is at the min requirement. i have heard of low pressure causing tds readings. i just know it all starts with good water quality so i wouldn't risk either. good luck
greg

 

[swannyson7]

I agree that you should replace it due to the minimal cost. I change mine any time the DI resin changes color or when my TDS is above zero.

Sent from my HTC Evo using Tapatalk

 

[AZDesertRat]

You change DI resin when you first start to see any TDS reading other than 0. You are way past due if you have been seeing 3-4 for any length of time.
DI resins strat to release weakly ionized substances even before it is exhausted andsome of those include nitrates, phosphates and silicates among others. One thing to remember is since they are weakly ionized they may not register on a TDS meter so you are probably passing more junk than you realize.
Chloramines should not an issue, the single 0.5 micron carbon block is more than sufficient for the chlorine portion at normal potable water levels and fresh DI resin will remove the ammonia portion. If you want to supercharge your system for best performance get yourself a 0.5 micron prefilter, move the 0.5 carbon to the second canister getting rid of the 1 micron carbon and replumb to use the extra canister as a second or dual DI, now you have a system that is really good. Two carbons are a waste of money if you use a good prefilter and 0.5 or 0.6 micron carbon block.

 

[Joe Knows Reefs]

Thanks everyone! DI on the way!

 

[Joe Knows Reefs]

You change DI resin when you first start to see any TDS reading other than 0. You are way past due if you have been seeing 3-4 for any length of time.
DI resins strat to release weakly ionized substances even before it is exhausted andsome of those include nitrates, phosphates and silicates among others. One thing to remember is since they are weakly ionized they may not register on a TDS meter so you are probably passing more junk than you realize.
Chloramines should not an issue, the single 0.5 micron carbon block is more than sufficient for the chlorine portion at normal potable water levels and fresh DI resin will remove the ammonia portion. If you want to supercharge your system for best performance get yourself a 0.5 micron prefilter, move the 0.5 carbon to the second canister getting rid of the 1 micron carbon and replumb to use the extra canister as a second or dual DI, now you have a system that is really good. Two carbons are a waste of money if you use a good prefilter and 0.5 or 0.6 micron carbon block.

I'm not sure exactly what you're saying here. Currently my filters are sediment, carbon, carbon, DI in that order

 

[AZDesertRat]

Go with a single 0.5 micron followed by a single 0.5 micron carbon block then the RO membrane and replumb the extra carbon housing as a second DI filter for the most bang for your buck. It will take maybe $3-$5 in tubing parts, a second $8 refillable cartridge and a few minutes time to accomplish but will give you much better water quality. Two carbons go back years ago when carbon was not as perfected as it is today and it took two to remove the chlorine even for only maybe 300 gallons while a single 0.5 micron block does 20,000 gallons of chlorinated or chloraminated water by itself.

 

[Joe Knows Reefs]

I'm stupid...will you lay out the order it will go in...

Is this right: sediment, carbon, DI, RO, DI

 

[AZDesertRat]

1. prefilter
2. carbon block
3. RO membrane
4. DI
5. DI

The prefilters sole purpose is to protect the carbon blocks billions of tiny microscopic pores which is where the chlorina and VOCs are adsorbed. The carbons purpose is to protect the RO membranes thin film plastic fabric from chlorine so it does not melt the plastic film. The RO membrane protects the deionizing resin by removing 90 to 98% of the TDS or dissolved solids, contaminants which we measure with electrical conductivity or more commonly a Total Dissolved Solids meter which does the same thing in terms we can understand like parts per million. To make the DI last longer and work better you can add the second DI cartridge and monitor the TDS between the two cartridges, when you first start to see any TDS from the first cartridge you remove it, move the second cartridge to the first position and install a fresh refill in the second position so you get double use out of it and 0 TDS water almost guaranteed.

 

[Joe Knows Reefs]

1. prefilter
2. carbon block
3. RO membrane
4. DI
5. DI

The prefilters sole purpose is to protect the carbon blocks billions of tiny microscopic pores which is where the chlorina and VOCs are adsorbed. The carbons purpose is to protect the RO membranes thin film plastic fabric from chlorine so it does not melt the plastic film. The RO membrane protects the deionizing resin by removing 90 to 98% of the TDS or dissolved solids, contaminants which we measure with electrical conductivity or more commonly a Total Dissolved Solids meter which does the same thing in terms we can understand like parts per million. To make the DI last longer and work better you can add the second DI cartridge and monitor the TDS between the two cartridges, when you first start to see any TDS from the first cartridge you remove it, move the second cartridge to the first position and install a fresh refill in the second position so you get double use out of it and 0 TDS water almost guaranteed.

Thanks for the great explanation! Now, I have the Typhoon 3 75gpd RO/DI unit from Air Water & Ice - I want to do the mod but don't know what fittings I would need. I'm on BRS's site ordering random fittings hoping I have the right ones...lol. Suggestions?

 

[AZDesertRat]

You will disconnect the 1/4" line which leads from the second carbon canister up to the RO membrane housing. Next you will need to unscrew the canister lids from the top bracket then unscrew the nipple between the first and second canisters and screw the piece you removed from the second canister into the first canisters outlet so it now leads up to the RO membrane. You should now have 1. prefilter, 2. carbon block, 3. RO membrane, 4. DI canister. Next you take the line leading down from the RO membrane down to the existing DI cansiter and either move the canister over one position or remove the inlet line and screw it into the old second carbon canister so it now becomes the first DI. Then either use the nipple you removed that connected the two carbon lids together or if you need to rotate the lids to fit on the bracket you buy a couple extra 1/4" john guest x MIP adapters and connect them with tubing.
It sounds harder than it really is and I'm sure looking at it in your hands it will make sense. The canister lids can be mounted so the fittings face side to side or front to back either way, sometimes you have to rotate them to face front to back to get everything to fit on the bracket. Most brackets have lots of extra holes for this purpose. You should only need to buy a couple 1/4" john guest x MIP fittings to make it all work plus a second refillable DI cartridge, either prefilled or the cartridge and enough bulk resin for a couple refills which may be cheaper. Make sure you store any extra resin in a sealed bag with a little moisture in it and in the back of the refrigerator, don't buy more than you can use in 6 months as thats its shelf life.

It will end up looking something like the MaxCap pictured here, notice how the two DI canisters are rotated front to back and they have 1/4" line connecting them?
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/MAXCAP_MANUAL.pdf

 

[Joe Knows Reefs]

You will disconnect the 1/4" line which leads from the second carbon canister up to the RO membrane housing. Next you will need to unscrew the canister lids from the top bracket then unscrew the nipple between the first and second canisters and screw the piece you removed from the second canister into the first canisters outlet so it now leads up to the RO membrane. You should now have 1. prefilter, 2. carbon block, 3. RO membrane, 4. DI canister. Next you take the line leading down from the RO membrane down to the existing DI cansiter and either move the canister over one position or remove the inlet line and screw it into the old second carbon canister so it now becomes the first DI. Then either use the nipple you removed that connected the two carbon lids together or if you need to rotate the lids to fit on the bracket you buy a couple extra 1/4" john guest x MIP adapters and connect them with tubing.
It sounds harder than it really is and I'm sure looking at it in your hands it will make sense. The canister lids can be mounted so the fittings face side to side or front to back either way, sometimes you have to rotate them to face front to back to get everything to fit on the bracket. Most brackets have lots of extra holes for this purpose. You should only need to buy a couple 1/4" john guest x MIP fittings to make it all work plus a second refillable DI cartridge, either prefilled or the cartridge and enough bulk resin for a couple refills which may be cheaper. Make sure you store any extra resin in a sealed bag with a little moisture in it and in the back of the refrigerator, don't buy more than you can use in 6 months as thats its shelf life.

It will end up looking something like the MaxCap pictured here, notice how the two DI canisters are rotated front to back and they have 1/4" line connecting them?
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/MAXCAP_MANUAL.pdf

Thanks again - now I'm not sure whether to get male or female parts...sorry for being so dense. Can you tell me exactly which one it is on this page RO Fittings and Valves - Reverse Osmosis & Deionization - PRODUCTS - English

 

[AZDesertRat]

These:
Male Threaded Elbow 1/4" NPT x 1/4" Push Connect (Murlok - English
1/4" push fit, speed fit or john guest x 1/4" male iron pipe or male national pipe thread 90 degree elbows.

 

[Joe Knows Reefs]

Just got done with my mod - I'll let you know the results :)