Is anyone using the Triton Method and keeping seahorses? I am interested in trying this but not at the expense of ponies. I think the key would be setting up everything, SSB, LR, refugium, skimmer, then getting a grasp of the Triton Method. Also testing the bioload my tank might be able to handle way before adding the seahorses. Any thoughts?
Triton Method with Seahorses?
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vlangel
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I am afraid that I am old school (or maybe just 'old') but I do not have a good grasp of the triton method. It is important to know that there are no tests available to the aquarist that measure pathogenic bacteria, which is the cause of the majority of premature seahorse deaths. Due diligence when it comes to water changes and husbandry are the only way I know to combat pathogenic bacteria. Perhaps another experienced keeper who is familiar with the triton method can jump in and comment.
Greybeard
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It's been a decade since I kept seahorses. Loved keeping them, but after far too many losses, I decided these creatures were better left in the ocean. Hopefully, knowledge on how to maintain these animals has grown over the last decade.
As to Triton, I'm a brand new Triton system convert. The one worry I'd have is this: Triton Core 7 is dosed in equal parts based on Alkalinity testing... Seahorse systems are low demand, when compared to a typical reef, which is what the Triton system was designed around. I'd be afraid that the 3 (4) part core dosing system, in equal parts, would quickly overload the system on elements that a reef would consume, and that your seahorse system will not. Do your ICP testing, and be prepared to adjust the dosing volume of each of the 4 Core components independently, as needed.
As to biologic pathogens, even a 50% water change leaves 50% of any pathogens in the tank, and under the right conditions, bacteria will multiply far faster than water changes are going to remove them. I don't know that I'd worry so much about water changes, provided water quality stays high. I might discard the Triton method recommendation, and add a UV Sterilizer to this sort of system... that would seem a much more efficient method of limiting bacterial pathogens.
Very stable, cool temps are important with most horses... I'd consider a chiller a necessity. Triton core 7, independently dosed as needed, regular ICP testing, a nice, big, refugeum with enough light to out compete the reasonably low light you're probably going to have on the display, coupled with a UV sterilizer and a GAC reactor, sounds like a very good plan for a seahorse system to me.
As to Triton, I'm a brand new Triton system convert. The one worry I'd have is this: Triton Core 7 is dosed in equal parts based on Alkalinity testing... Seahorse systems are low demand, when compared to a typical reef, which is what the Triton system was designed around. I'd be afraid that the 3 (4) part core dosing system, in equal parts, would quickly overload the system on elements that a reef would consume, and that your seahorse system will not. Do your ICP testing, and be prepared to adjust the dosing volume of each of the 4 Core components independently, as needed.
As to biologic pathogens, even a 50% water change leaves 50% of any pathogens in the tank, and under the right conditions, bacteria will multiply far faster than water changes are going to remove them. I don't know that I'd worry so much about water changes, provided water quality stays high. I might discard the Triton method recommendation, and add a UV Sterilizer to this sort of system... that would seem a much more efficient method of limiting bacterial pathogens.
Very stable, cool temps are important with most horses... I'd consider a chiller a necessity. Triton core 7, independently dosed as needed, regular ICP testing, a nice, big, refugeum with enough light to out compete the reasonably low light you're probably going to have on the display, coupled with a UV sterilizer and a GAC reactor, sounds like a very good plan for a seahorse system to me.
I have had 2 replies, one is for Triton and one is not. I think with seahorses I will probably have to do a hybrid style and take the best of both worlds and do what's best for the ponies! Definitely need to keep the tank cool though. Ill also use LED lighting to reduce heat. UV sterilizer does sound like a good idea too.
Greybeard
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The motto of this hobby should be 'There is no one, true way". Pay attention, respond cautiously to changes as they happen, keep as stable an environment as possible... the tools and techniques you use make much less difference than a good understanding of YOUR system, and good basic husbandry. I've seen success, and failure, with virtually all 'methods'. A diligent aquarist makes all the difference.
My two worst crashes both happened when life took me away from the tank for a while. I honestly believe I could have 'fixed' the problem in both cases, had I been there when needed.
Greybeard
2500 Club Member
I believe the Triton folks would say the purpose of the Triton system is to match natural sea water as closely as possible.
The method, which includes Core7 dosing, regular ICP testing, and responding to measured differences between your tank and NSW... also removes the need to perform regular water changes.
The method, which includes Core7 dosing, regular ICP testing, and responding to measured differences between your tank and NSW... also removes the need to perform regular water changes.
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