Trying to diagnose lawnmower blenny (white dots on pectoral fins) + treatment plan

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Looking for some help since I'm new to marine fishes!

I've had my lawnmower blenny for 6 weeks and within the last week he has started flashing his side on the live rocks. I see some white dots on his pectoral fins, but nowhere else. Would this be ich or velvet? I am not quite sure.

I have a feeling I am going to have to treat in my QT tank using copper power, but I am a bit hesitant since the other fish is a sixline wrasse and I'm reading they can be sensitive to copper. She has no sign of spots however.

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Looking for some help since I'm new to marine fishes!

I've had my lawnmower blenny for 6 weeks and within the last week he has started flashing his side on the live rocks. I see some white dots on his pectoral fins, but nowhere else. Would this be ich or velvet? I am not quite sure.

I have a feeling I am going to have to treat in my QT tank using copper power, but I am a bit hesitant since the other fish is a sixline wrasse and I'm reading they can be sensitive to copper. She has no sign of spots however.

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1668126432688.png
PB100116.JPG PB100121.JPG
This can or may be sand particles but can also be Lymphocystis which as on fish are light-colored nodules that are white to grey in color and are made up of infected cells that become enlarged as the virus grows on itself.
Lympho is often caused by poor water quality at place of purchase or high in ammonia and nitrate, poor quarantining and poor diet. These fish while they eat algae and not strict algae eaters but require meats and calcium in their diet.
This fin should have a round belly like it swallowed a golf ball and yours looks a little thin
 

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This looks to me like Ich. Especially if flashing. Do the dots change from hour to hour - if not - despite the flashing - it's unlikely to be 'sand'. To me this looks like classic ICH - as compared to lymyphocystis. One way to tell - is whether the spots move around from day to day (i.e. one day there is a spot at place xxx, 2 days later it's gone. more importantly - Did you Qt the fish? Treat with anything - is it in with other fish (besides the 6 line wrasse)? Was that fish Quarantined??
 
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Thank you. I am worried he is a bit skinny. I'd been trying to add algae wafers and pellets but he just ignores them and prefers to scrape the algae off the rocks. It's a 28 gallon cube and I do a 10% WC around once a week, also test with API Saltwater kit and the nitrates never get higher than 10ppm with ammonia and nitrite at 0.
 
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This looks to me like Ich. Especially if flashing. Do the dots change from hour to hour - if not - despite the flashing - it's unlikely to be 'sand'. To me this looks like classic ICH - as compared to lymyphocystis. One way to tell - is whether the spots move around from day to day (i.e. one day there is a spot at place xxx, 2 days later it's gone. more importantly - Did you Qt the fish? Treat with anything - is it in with other fish (besides the 6 line wrasse)? Was that fish Quarantined??
I got the entire tank from someone getting out of the hobby around 3 months ago. The only animal in there was the wrasse, so I did not quarantine it. When I bought the blenny 6 weeks ago I had him in quarantine for 1 week and dosed with SeaChem Paraguard. I took him out after just a week because I was seriously worried he was not eating anything I put in for him.
 

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Thank you. I am worried he is a bit skinny. I'd been trying to add algae wafers and pellets but he just ignores them and prefers to scrape the algae off the rocks. It's a 28 gallon cube and I do a 10% WC around once a week, also test with API Saltwater kit and the nitrates never get higher than 10ppm with ammonia and nitrite at 0.
I would not worry about the nitrates at this point. To me - this looks like Ich - the fish could get over it 'on its own' - However - each time you add new fish - you will fish those being infected. This is why many here recommend quarantine of each fish.
 

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I got the entire tank from someone getting out of the hobby around 3 months ago. The only animal in there was the wrasse, so I did not quarantine it. When I bought the blenny 6 weeks ago I had him in quarantine for 1 week and dosed with SeaChem Paraguard. I took him out after just a week because I was seriously worried he was not eating anything I put in for him.
So - its possible it was sick from the start?
 
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So - its possible it was sick from the start?
I got the whole setup + wrasse initially
Then bought the blenny later. I suppose there could have been ich in the tank already, since the tank was not in the best shape after I adopted it.
 

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Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I see the spots on the left pectoral fin, but nowhere else on the fish. Are there similar spots on the fish’s right pectoral fin? The coloration of this species makes easy diagnosis of ich a bit difficult….

Jay
 
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Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I see the spots on the left pectoral fin, but nowhere else on the fish. Are there similar spots on the fish’s right pectoral fin? The coloration of this species makes easy diagnosis of ich a bit difficult….

Jay
I can't get a decent pic,, but there are around the same amount on the right fin. His color certainly isn't helping. I do have a photo (see attached) from 2 weeks ago and i don't see spots at all, other than his pigmentation, which leads me think it is ich.
20221028_154038.jpg
 

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I can't get a decent pic,, but there are around the same amount on the right fin. His color certainly isn't helping. I do have a photo (see attached) from 2 weeks ago and i don't see spots at all, other than his pigmentation, which leads me think it is ich.
20221028_154038.jpg
Yes, that is an important clue - the spots on both fins and not being present before tends to point to ich or some other parasite.
As I think you mentioned, these guys are tough to treat as they don’t do well in bare tanks. Also, if you don’t treat all fish and keep them out of your display for 60+ days, they risk getting reinfected.
Jay
 
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I gave him a freshwater dip last night to check for flukes but I didn't see anything come off. Then I put him into a qt tank with a light layer of sand. This morning he is breathing really rapidly and looks to have red streaks on his body. The copper power I ordered is coming on Tuesday. Is there anything else I can do in the meantime? I'm very worried. His cirri also look damaged.
 

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MnFish1

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I gave him a freshwater dip last night to check for flukes but I didn't see anything come off. Then I put him into a qt tank with a light layer of sand. This morning he is breathing really rapidly and looks to have red streaks on his body. The copper power I ordered is coming on Tuesday. Is there anything else I can do in the meantime? I'm very worried. His cirri also look damaged.
Red streaks can often signify systemic infection (i.e. bacterial) - perhaps associated with a parasite. I would make sure your ammonia levels, etc are ok - and oxygenate the water well with an airstone or flow. Unfortunately - I cannot see the picture from today. I would consider an antibiotic until you can get your copper. Normally it's best not to 'mix medications' - but it may be needed in this case.
 
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Red streaks can often signify systemic infection (i.e. bacterial) - perhaps associated with a parasite. I would make sure your ammonia levels, etc are ok - and oxygenate the water well with an airstone or flow. Unfortunately - I cannot see the picture from today. I would consider an antibiotic until you can get your copper. Normally it's best not to 'mix medications' - but it may be needed in this case.
Thanks, I've got some Kanaplex I can give him.
 

Jay Hemdal

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I gave him a freshwater dip last night to check for flukes but I didn't see anything come off. Then I put him into a qt tank with a light layer of sand. This morning he is breathing really rapidly and looks to have red streaks on his body. The copper power I ordered is coming on Tuesday. Is there anything else I can do in the meantime? I'm very worried. His cirri also look damaged.

The video shows more than rapid breathing - it may just be the angle, but the nape of this fish seems super-thin (behind the head). That is a huge issue with these fish, they get skinny and starve on you, despite seemingly eating well.

The still photos do not show this much emaciation, so you'll need to confirm that for yourself - if the fish is thin or not.

Jay
 
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The video shows more than rapid breathing - it may just be the angle, but the nape of this fish seems super-thin (behind the head). That is a huge issue with these fish, they get skinny and starve on you, despite seemingly eating well.

The still photos do not show this much emaciation, so you'll need to confirm that for yourself - if the fish is thin or not.

Jay
I do think he is a little on the thin side. When he was in the main tank, he was always grazing and pooping well, but maybe he wasn't getting enough. I have some nori sheets I am getting today and hopefully I can get him to eat those, but in this state he may not want to eat.
 

MnFish1

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Let us know how it turns out. @Jay Hemdal do you think - given the red streaks that kanaplex is reasonable?

PS - if flukes do fall off (a general question) - I know you can see bleeding - how often do you see secondary infection ? Thanks
 

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By the way - no matter what Jay says - since it may take a while for him to answer - if you have it - I would use it. It should do no harm
 

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Let us know how it turns out. @Jay Hemdal do you think - given the red streaks that kanaplex is reasonable?

PS - if flukes do fall off (a general question) - I know you can see bleeding - how often do you see secondary infection ? Thanks

Yes - I'm not really seeing the red streaks on my computer, but those are generally a sign of bacterial problems.

When flukes drop off a fish, I don't know if you'll actually see blood coming out of the fish, or even see red spots....the fish just become anemic. If you look at their gills, they will be light pink or white instead of red.

Jay
 

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