TSA Rainbow Fusion - Who has it!?

Andyf30

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
508
Reaction score
375
Location
United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Title says it all! Recently got a frag but it has paled out a lot after shipping and while growing has remained fairly pale. Any tips on coloring up as well as pics? Show off your fire!
 

Dr. Jim

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
1,343
Reaction score
1,087
Location
Naples, FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey Jim! Any updates on these two?
I moved 6 months ago and a lot of my corals haven't been doing well and I lost a lot, including my Jolt. The Rainbow fusion is alive but lost color. I'm really surprised and a bit baffled considering I am using all the same equipment and have moved much longer distances several times. ICP tests are perfect. N-DOC shows high N but who knows how to interpret that test! I did add a Tunze Chaeto reactor last week but I doubt NO3 at 17-20 are the culprit. expecially when you see so many (like Charlie's) with wide ranges of NO3. But, I do have more algae growing on my eggcrate base than I would like.
I really believe my problem is a combination of spionid boring worms and vermetid snails. I just got some new ivermectin and in a few days will dip all my mini-colonies that are on 2x2 tiles.

But to get back to my original post about Jolt vs Fusion: I did finally see a different growth pattern and a slightly lighter shade of blue in the Jolt.

JF JOLT.JPG

TSA RAINBOW FUSION.JPG
 
Upvote 0

Minifoot77

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
567
Reaction score
695
Location
Ottawa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I moved 6 months ago and a lot of my corals haven't been doing well and I lost a lot, including my Jolt. The Rainbow fusion is alive but lost color. I'm really surprised and a bit baffled considering I am using all the same equipment and have moved much longer distances several times. ICP tests are perfect. N-DOC shows high N but who knows how to interpret that test! I did add a Tunze Chaeto reactor last week but I doubt NO3 at 17-20 are the culprit. expecially when you see so many (like Charlie's) with wide ranges of NO3. But, I do have more algae growing on my eggcrate base than I would like.
I really believe my problem is a combination of spionid boring worms and vermetid snails. I just got some new ivermectin and in a few days will dip all my mini-colonies that are on 2x2 tiles.

But to get back to my original post about Jolt vs Fusion: I did finally see a different growth pattern and a slightly lighter shade of blue in the Jolt.

JF JOLT.JPG

TSA RAINBOW FUSION.JPG
Does ivermectin actually work? And which brand should I be looking for
 
Upvote 0

Dr. Jim

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
1,343
Reaction score
1,087
Location
Naples, FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Does ivermectin actually work? And which brand should I be looking for
I don't know for sure if it works, but I believe there is a good chance it may be good for one or the other (and hopefully both). There are some threads on this that you may want to look up. Some have used whopping doses, which I may actually try because I am able to dip my entire colonies since they are on tiles. I will be using perhaps as much as 2.4 ml/ gal for an hour or more.
I've used ivomec at 2-4ml/30 gal for 2-6 hours to stun Fireworms and it worked well. I used it in a Q tank. All worms, including spaghetti worms and feather dusters were "stunned" too. Stunning the fireworms was good enough to let me catch them. I then did a major water change and saved the other worms.
I'm fairly confident that SPS can handle the higher dosage of ivomec, but I will let you know!

I also plan to use a circular wire brush on a drill to sand the bottom of the tiles where I've seen vermetids and I believe spionids. But most of the spionids appear to be on the live rock. I'm not going to do anything about the rock for now. I know a lot of reefers have them without them necessarily causing a problem. I also ordered a bunch of bumble bees.... just for fun. I will also change the eggcrate platform I have on top of the rock. I'm not 100% sure these parasites are causing my problem but I'm running out of ideas as to what is bothering my corals.

I don't know if anyone else feels this way....but back in the old days when we used Pacific live rock, I never saw many of the problems I've seen in recent years: spionids, vermetids, fireworms, in particular. I've only seen them since using Gulf and Keys rock !!

You want to look for injectable ivomectin 1%. I got mine from EntirelyPetsRx
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0

Minifoot77

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
567
Reaction score
695
Location
Ottawa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I don't know for sure if it works, but I believe there is a good chance it may be good for one or the other (and hopefully both). There are some threads on this that you may want to look up. Some have used whopping doses, which I may actually try because I am able to dip my entire colonies since they are on tiles. I will be using perhaps as much as 2.4 ml/ gal for an hour or more.
I've used ivomec at 2-4ml/30 gal for 2-6 hours to stun Fireworms and it worked well. I used it in a Q tank. All worms, including spaghetti worms and feather dusters were "stunned" too. Stunning the fireworms was good enough to let me catch them. I then did a major water change and saved the other worms.
I'm fairly confident that SPS can handle the higher dosage of ivomec, but I will let you know!

I also plan to use a circular wire brush on a drill to sand the bottom of the tiles where I've seen vermetids and I believe spionids. But most of the spionids appear to be on the live rock. I'm not going to do anything about the rock for now. I know a lot of reefers have them without them necessarily causing a problem. I also ordered a bunch of bumble bees.... just for fun. I will also change the eggcrate platform I have on top of the rock. I'm not 100% sure these parasites are causing my problem but I'm running out of ideas as to what is bothering my corals.

I don't know if anyone else feels this way....but back in the old days when we used Pacific live rock, I never saw many of the problems I've seen in recent years: spionids, vermetids, fireworms, in particular. I've only seen them since using Gulf and Keys rock !!

You want to look for injectable ivomectin 1%. I got mine from EntirelyPetsRx
1% injectable I have from a pig farmer... would it work to eradicate some segmented worm I have eating my acro bases? And would you recommend a whole tank treatment or just a dip? I can remove the plagued rocks I think
 
Upvote 0

Dr. Jim

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
1,343
Reaction score
1,087
Location
Naples, FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
1% injectable I have from a pig farmer... would it work to eradicate some segmented worm I have eating my acro bases? And would you recommend a whole tank treatment or just a dip? I can remove the plagued rocks I think
I wonder what kind of segmented worm would eat acros from the base? Are you sure they aren't fireworms? (IME fireworms eat from the tips, though).
How to treat depends on many factors, I suppose. How big is the tank? How bad is the problem? etc. And most importantly, how sure are you that the worms are killing the acros? (Is it possible they are just eating dead tissue after the acros start dying for some other reason?) The worms are probably in the rock so just dipping the corals may not solve the problem. But before treating the whole tank, I'd be sure that these worms are truly causing the problem! (Any pics of the worms for us?)
If you have to treat the whole tank, I would have to make my recommendation based on what I've done with the fireworms several times. 2-4 ml per 30 gal for 2-6 hours. See if the worms become stunned and crawl/fall out of the rocks so you can pick them up with forceps. Be ready for a 30-50% water change (depending on your tank size and the concentration you used; the higher the dosage, the greater the water change should probably be.). I'd have activated carbon ready to go, too. If this relatively low dosage works, you may save all your other beneficial worms. I haven't seen fish affected at the dosage I mentioned. (It may even kill any intestinal parasites in the fish's GI tract).
If the worms come back, or you can't get them all, then a higher dosage for a longer period may kill them but will probably kill all worms.
Be sure to wear gloves when working with ivermectin (even when diluted in tank water). It can be absorbed right thru your skin.

But again.....be sure these worms are really killing your corals before considering this treatment !!
 
Upvote 0

Minifoot77

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
567
Reaction score
695
Location
Ottawa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I wonder what kind of segmented worm would eat acros from the base? Are you sure they aren't fireworms? (IME fireworms eat from the tips, though).
How to treat depends on many factors, I suppose. How big is the tank? How bad is the problem? etc. And most importantly, how sure are you that the worms are killing the acros? (Is it possible they are just eating dead tissue after the acros start dying for some other reason?) The worms are probably in the rock so just dipping the corals may not solve the problem. But before treating the whole tank, I'd be sure that these worms are truly causing the problem! (Any pics of the worms for us?)
If you have to treat the whole tank, I would have to make my recommendation based on what I've done with the fireworms several times. 2-4 ml per 30 gal for 2-6 hours. See if the worms become stunned and crawl/fall out of the rocks so you can pick them up with forceps. Be ready for a 30-50% water change (depending on your tank size and the concentration you used; the higher the dosage, the greater the water change should probably be.). I'd have activated carbon ready to go, too. If this relatively low dosage works, you may save all your other beneficial worms. I haven't seen fish affected at the dosage I mentioned. (It may even kill any intestinal parasites in the fish's GI tract).
If the worms come back, or you can't get them all, then a higher dosage for a longer period may kill them but will probably kill all worms.
Be sure to wear gloves when working with ivermectin (even when diluted in tank water). It can be absorbed right thru your skin.

But again.....be sure these worms are really killing your corals before considering this treatment !!
I know they are eating the skin off the base... so far I have only seen it 2 times but its not like a fireworm or bristle worm for that matter it was smooth skinned and only out during the night and not all the time
 
Upvote 0

Charlie’s Frags

Follow me on Instagram @Charlies Frags
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2017
Messages
6,136
Reaction score
9,473
Location
Houston
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I moved 6 months ago and a lot of my corals haven't been doing well and I lost a lot, including my Jolt. The Rainbow fusion is alive but lost color. I'm really surprised and a bit baffled considering I am using all the same equipment and have moved much longer distances several times. ICP tests are perfect. N-DOC shows high N but who knows how to interpret that test! I did add a Tunze Chaeto reactor last week but I doubt NO3 at 17-20 are the culprit. expecially when you see so many (like Charlie's) with wide ranges of NO3. But, I do have more algae growing on my eggcrate base than I would like.
I really believe my problem is a combination of spionid boring worms and vermetid snails. I just got some new ivermectin and in a few days will dip all my mini-colonies that are on 2x2 tiles.

But to get back to my original post about Jolt vs Fusion: I did finally see a different growth pattern and a slightly lighter shade of blue in the Jolt.

JF JOLT.JPG

TSA RAINBOW FUSION.JPG
:rolling-on-the-floor-laughing: :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing: :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing: :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing: :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
“Like Charlie’s”

I’m surprised my reefing style hasn’t become a verb yet
 
Upvote 0

Dr. Jim

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
1,343
Reaction score
1,087
Location
Naples, FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I know they are eating the skin off the base... so far I have only seen it 2 times but its not like a fireworm or bristle worm for that matter it was smooth skinned and only out during the night and not all the time
I'd ask around and try to get people here to chime in to see if they heard of such a worm before you take the drastic step of using Ivomec. But, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to dip a couple of rocks and see if anything comes out....but in the long run, will that really be of any help?
 
Upvote 0

Minifoot77

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 3, 2022
Messages
567
Reaction score
695
Location
Ottawa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'd ask around and try to get people here to chime in to see if they heard of such a worm before you take the drastic step of using Ivomec. But, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to dip a couple of rocks and see if anything comes out....but in the long run, will that really be of any help?
It's kinda an nsa and bare bottom so... I tried nuking the worm with rodi and aptasia x but he still comes out of the same hole
 
Upvote 0

Looking for the spotlight: Do your fish notice the lighting in your reef tank?

  • My fish seem to regularly respond to the lighting in my reef tank.

    Votes: 95 76.0%
  • My fish seem to occasionally respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 15 12.0%
  • My fish seem to rarely respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 8 6.4%
  • My fish seem to never respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 1 0.8%
  • I don’t pay enough attention to my fish to notice if they respond to the lighting.

    Votes: 2 1.6%
  • I don’t have any fish in my tank.

    Votes: 2 1.6%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 1.6%
Back
Top