Ultra low po4, very high no3. Carbon dose or heavy investment into live rock? Can't decide!

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I have a dilemma, for several years I have struggled with nitrates. I switched to frozen food (reef frenzy) from pellets and I think that played a small roll; I also have more decorative rock (carib sea) than old live rock from when I started my reef tanks about 12 years ago. The live rock was originally purchased for a 75g (a mix of fuji live and TBS stuff). I am sure I have less than 50 lbs of my original live rock left. My tank today is 500g and most of my rock is carib sea...absolutely love the caverns and arches I can create with it but I feel that is the #1 cause of my nutrient struggle.

If I had my way i'd go sandless but I have 1-2" for my remaining green wrasse. When he dies I will remove sand but he is going strong on 10 years old so he gets to call the shots.

I am light on corals as I had a pump break and caused a mass die off, but now that my tank has finally rebalanced (zoas, monit and goni pot still huge and growing my coraline has also taken off) I find myself struggling again with nutrients and it's honestly been this way for years since I started making heavy investments into the structural carib sea life rock. I want to keep the useful pieces but start to rip my base structure out and replace with live rock. Is this a feasible solution? I think I will swap roughly 200lbs of rock out.

My other alt is carbon dosing and while this worked in the past I had to dose the heck out of phosphates and that eventually catches up with me because I feel I have to dose so much once carbon dosing starts because I am so low to begin with the nitrates dont drop until I have enough p04. This comes back to bite me because my life rock starts to really suck it up and eventually I have algae issues on my rocks. It's a never end cycle of disruption.

Thoughts from some folks who experienced this before?

IMO water changes are useless as they seem a temp fix, this is a large tank and I just simply don't want to be spending $300 monthly and using all my time to change water every day. I loathe them, absolutely loathe making 150 gallons of salt to do a sizeable change on my volume. It's not a long term feasible solution.
 
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I have a sump but not really large enough for a real fug. I can grow chaeto fine no problem (grows fast) but I find it does absolutely nothing to my numbers.

My numbers are:

po4 0.018 (6ubb)
no3 36

The ATI results are very similar to what I get with my Hanna kits
 

Lavey29

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I have a sump but not really large enough for a real fug. I can grow chaeto fine no problem (grows fast) but I find it does absolutely nothing to my numbers.

My numbers are:

po4 0.018 (6ubb)
no3 36

The ATI results are very similar to what I get with my Hanna kits
Nitrates are just slightly elevated. Phosphate real low but easily corrected. Pellet food raises phosphate and coral additives and aminos raise them also. Reef rouds, reef Chile etc... or just dose some neophos. Your sand and rocks are absorbing the phosphate now so you just need to give the tank a little more then they absorb each day. 10% water change monthly on that size tank would be great but yes a lot of effort. One of the challenges with a monster size tank.
 

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I have a dilemma, for several years I have struggled with nitrates. I switched to frozen food (reef frenzy) from pellets and I think that played a small roll; I also have more decorative rock (carib sea) than old live rock from when I started my reef tanks about 12 years ago. The live rock was originally purchased for a 75g (a mix of fuji live and TBS stuff). I am sure I have less than 50 lbs of my original live rock left. My tank today is 500g and most of my rock is carib sea...absolutely love the caverns and arches I can create with it but I feel that is the #1 cause of my nutrient struggle.

If I had my way i'd go sandless but I have 1-2" for my remaining green wrasse. When he dies I will remove sand but he is going strong on 10 years old so he gets to call the shots.

I am light on corals as I had a pump break and caused a mass die off, but now that my tank has finally rebalanced (zoas, monit and goni pot still huge and growing my coraline has also taken off) I find myself struggling again with nutrients and it's honestly been this way for years since I started making heavy investments into the structural carib sea life rock. I want to keep the useful pieces but start to rip my base structure out and replace with live rock. Is this a feasible solution? I think I will swap roughly 200lbs of rock out.

My other alt is carbon dosing and while this worked in the past I had to dose the heck out of phosphates and that eventually catches up with me because I feel I have to dose so much once carbon dosing starts because I am so low to begin with the nitrates dont drop until I have enough p04. This comes back to bite me because my life rock starts to really suck it up and eventually I have algae issues on my rocks. It's a never end cycle of disruption.

Thoughts from some folks who experienced this before?

IMO water changes are useless as they seem a temp fix, this is a large tank and I just simply don't want to be spending $300 monthly and using all my time to change water every day. I loathe them, absolutely loathe making 150 gallons of salt to do a sizeable change on my volume. It's not a long term feasible solution.

I don't think that there is much wrong with your numbers
 
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So I got my test results back from reef-labs:

Nothing overly glaring...deficient on some metals. I think at this point my only option is to swap a good chunk of dry rock with live rock and see how it goes. Has to be the only thing left to do here.

I have been struggling with acro color and growth for 2 years now...never had this issue in any previous tank using my same methods. It's odd to me that I may be the only person in the reef hobby who can put a red SPS coral in my tank and have it turn blueish purple in less than 2 weeks.

This live rock is going to cost me close to $1,000. I hope i'm making the right choice :(
 

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Something has to change, SPS just don't thrive. Really starting to think this dry rock thing is the problem.
Mine is SPS dominant and my tank nutrients are more or less same but I don’t have dry rock.All are live rock from kpaquatics and Tampa bay saltwater.i suggest to get sine live rock from one of them
 
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Mine is SPS dominant and my tank nutrients are more or less same but I don’t have dry rock.All are live rock from kpaquatics and Tampa bay saltwater.i suggest to get sine live rock from one of them

Will do, going to take out my algae covered rocks currently in the tank as I suspect they are sucking up and leeching po4 which is making it hard to balance and slowly replace 20 lbs at a time. Until I get to about 200lbs of live.

Also going to focus on 10 % water changes weekly during this process.
 

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Manganese, iron, and Phosphates... When I started dosing phosphate my Acros started coloring up. Reef Builders cited iron as being necessary for certain colors.

This is a good read, but remember that every tank is different.

 

gbroadbridge

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So I got my test results back from reef-labs:

Nothing overly glaring...deficient on some metals. I think at this point my only option is to swap a good chunk of dry rock with live rock and see how it goes. Has to be the only thing left to do here.

I have been struggling with acro color and growth for 2 years now...never had this issue in any previous tank using my same methods. It's odd to me that I may be the only person in the reef hobby who can put a red SPS coral in my tank and have it turn blueish purple in less than 2 weeks.

This live rock is going to cost me close to $1,000. I hope i'm making the right choice :(

My tank was started enitirely with all dead rock and dead sand, and I have no problems with growth or coloration.

The key is stability, and that is much more difficult than buying expensive rock or magic potion additives.

Spend the money on an auto testing and dosing system and get those parameters locked in.

I saw huge differences when I took that step.

edit. And keep the hands out of the tank. Mine go in there maybe every 3 months.
 
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Manganese, iron, and Phosphates... When I started dosing phosphate my Acros started coloring up. Reef Builders cited iron as being necessary for certain colors.

This is a good read, but remember that every tank is different.


My report shows iron and manganese as deficient atm. I have red sea colors, I think manganese is included in the iron supplement of theirs.
 
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My tank was started enitirely with all dead rock and dead sand, and I have no problems with growth or coloration.

The key is stability, and that is much more difficult than buying expensive rock or magic potion additives.

Spend the money on an auto testing and dosing system and get those parameters locked in.

I saw huge differences when I took that step.

edit. And keep the hands out of the tank. Mine go in there maybe every 3 months.

That's what is making this hard. I completely simplified my setup, for the past year I have had my hands in the tank very little. My alk/calc/mag have been spot on for 2 years now, temps are controlled and swing very little. My pH is very stable, lots of light spread and very good flow (100x turnover in display). I really don't dose much of anything at all...I did carbon dose about 6 months ago and while it lowered my nitrates I did not see a difference in my coloration.

It's just SPS, my monti, goni, zoa, anything else are doing very very well.
 

gbroadbridge

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That's what is making this hard. I completely simplified my setup, for the past year I have had my hands in the tank very little. My alk/calc/mag have been spot on for 2 years now, temps are controlled and swing very little. My pH is very stable, lots of light spread and very good flow (100x turnover in display). I really don't dose much of anything at all...I did carbon dose about 6 months ago and while it lowered my nitrates I did not see a difference in my coloration.

It's just SPS, my monti, goni, zoa, anything else are doing very very well.


Started with all dead rock (life rock) and dry dead sand 2 years ago.

Lots of automation to keep things stable. Roller Mat, GFO, UV, O3, KH Keeper and Auto dosers.
3 part dosing plus AF Components strong for trace elements.

90 gal system (75 display)

4 x Nero 5
2 x Hydra 64 HD
2 x Prime 16 HD

SG 1.026
Alk 8.0
Ca 430
Mg 1300
NO3 5-10 ppm
PO4 0.05-0.10
K 420
I 0.06

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