Using Pneumatic Stays to Lift Canopy

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mike550

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Hello! I have a wood canopy that opens / closes like a clamshell (top half pivots open while bottom stays on the tank). It's a very simple design and it uses wooden "legs" to prop open the top. I am thinking of adding pneumatic spring stays to assist with the lift -- and possibly hold the top half of the lid up.

Does anyone have advice / experience with these stays? Of course I'm always open to better ideas!

Thanks in advance.
 
Well, if you'd like to mechanize the whole process, I'd recommend linear actuators. They'd handle the load with no issues, but would be more expensive than the hydraulic stays.
Cheers,
Ray
 
Well, if you'd like to mechanize the whole process, I'd recommend linear actuators. They'd handle the load with no issues, but would be more expensive than the hydraulic stays.
Cheers,
Ray
I honestly hadn't thought about that -- I was trying to keep it simple. That said, the lid is roughly 24"x48" and I couldn't secure one actuator in the middle. If I put one on each side, do you think they would stay in sync?
 
I think they would, if you use one of these synchronous control boards with a recommended feedback actuator:
https://www.firgelliauto.com/products/synchronous-control-board?variant=31598239252551I used the Optical Feedback linear actuators for my project.
I use a four channel control board along with a remote control to manage the four actuators in my lift:
Eq8L70X.jpg

I couldn't have done this without the gear. I could also lift my Harley with the combined lifting power of these four actuators...
Let me know if you have any questions.
Cheers,
Ray
 
How do you deal/prevent rust? In my experience anything metal near saltwater rust. Using marine grade SS? Or aluminum? Just curious as I will be using a canopy in my new build.
 
When I had a canopy I routinely wiped down (read: once every week or so) the metal surfaces with a damp (not wet) cloth. You can also wipe down with silicone or some such if desired. Since I've installed the "floating light rack", it really hasn't been a problem at all.
The framing in the rack is aluminum, the actuators are (mostly) likewise, except for a few parts. Some of the fittings and mounts are steel, but corrosion hasn't been an issue with their location. All of the electronics are well away from the water and/or protected as best as possible.
It should always be on the checklist of things to pay attention to, as well.
Cheers,
Ray :cool:
 
@rgulrich I looked at the actuators and the retracted length for the power I need and the actuators are too long. Thanks for the idea though!

If I ever rebuild my stand I’ll definitely keep these in mind.
 

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