Waterbox Crystal Peninsula 7226 (228 G/863L) build in Dubai

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Flore

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So it's finally time to post some updates, sorry for the long silence. It’s been the usual ups and downs with the tank, so things are still in a bit of a state of flux, but that might be interesting to some of you as well.

The challenges I’ve faced over the last 6 months or so.

1) Nudibranches: Lost a lot of Monti / Digitata. Lessons to learn: If you start to see white spots and you can’t explain them, start looking very close. I spotted it way too late.

Ripped out most of what was remaining and moved to quarantine, and added a Tailspot Wrasse there, along with regular dipping and brushing I brought them under control. I kept the display tank Monti-free for 2 months, and have now added some pieces back because they didn’t survive in quarantine anymore (lack of lights, dosing etc). Hopefully the Nudis won’t come back.

2) Nitrate spike: My tank was notoriously low on nutrients, but this has changed a bit quite suddenly to the extent I didn’t notice it, and Nitrates spiked to 15ppm. I think that cause some damage to a 2-3 SPS colonies.

3) Gorilla Crab: I have a big one and have lose two SPS colonies on the same rock that he lives in (the big hole in one of the photos on the middle rock). It may be due to the Nitrate spike as well, but I am definitely keen to get him out of the tank.

4) Had a strange case of losing half my coralline algae in pretty much 24h. Could be related to the Nitrate spike but am not sure. You can still see the white spots on the rocks (all my rock was purple).

5) Chiller issue: The sensor failed and the chiller kept running indefinitely, cooling the tank to 23C in 12h, which I believe caused the loss of 2-3 colonies as well at the time. I am now running the chiller pump on the Apex so in such a case it can shut down the flow to the chiller. In the end you’re moving the points of failure around a bit though, since now a lot depends on the Apex probe working reliably.

——

Another lesson I learned is to not buy large non-branching Euphyllia coral. I just find them difficult to keep alive for longer than a few months or a year, lost two recently. The moment one piece gets damaged it seems impossible to save the rest of the colony, no matter how you frag / cut / glue… Going with multi-head branching types now, have some thriving ones in the tank.

I also told myself to not buy large Millipora colonies anymore. One of the corals I lost was a Milli, and even though only a small part was affected at first, it was impossible to save any frags, again no matter the cutting and gluing I tried - the skin is just very fragile it seems. This is the second one that I lost this way.

——

In terms of equipment, the tank also looks a bit messier than it used to when it comes to cabling etc right now. Will need to re-do parts of the cabinet soon. It was very clean originally, but after ripping out and changing equipment it needs work.

IMG_3584.jpg


I added a UV filter, which significantly helped some bubble algae issues in my view, the model is JBL ProCristal Compact UV-C 36 W run with a Jebao DCP-2500.

Also replaced my large 300W Eheim Heater with two JBL 300W for redundancy and because they fit into the sump more easily.

Another piece I added a was Reefbot for automatic water testing, testing Kh, Ca, MG, PO4, although I will switch MG with Nitrates now owing to above issue.

IMG_3588.jpg


I upgraded the main flow pump to a Gyre 350, and I’m still waiting for the Hydros Wave Engine to connect it to the Apex alongside my 2 Gyre 150s and the MP40. At this point I’ll add the second 150 which is now not used since I switched it for the 350 to the back side of the tank where the MP40 is.

IMG_3587.jpg


Another change I made is to convert part of the sump to a small frag section to get rid of the frags in the display, which had always annoyed me, but I couldn't be bothered to set up a dedicated tank - although I might consider one that is connected to the sump of the display at some point, but it's another set of piping, pumps etc... I had to replace my skimmer with a smaller one (the old one was oversized in my view anyway), which is the Aquamaxx FC180, to add the new section, and even then had to install the glass separator further to the front than the intended location (not quite happy with how that is done right now). One thing I can recommend - make your sump as big as you can to add “stuff”. I got a used Radion G3 and running it on the SPS AB+ program with low intensity, and I am using the return from the UV pump to create additional flow in the frag section.

IMG_3585.jpg


Lastly, I added a D&D Jumpguard pro cover since I’m going to add the Wrasse soon. Good product, almost not noticeable either. Just a bit annoying for feeding, so I made a small support stand so I can just angle it upwards instead of having to remove it.

In terms of the tank itself, after more than 12 months the only negative aspect is the glass overflow. It’s a pain to clean and your water level in the display rises slightly when the slits get clogged by algae. Removable plastic like the Red Sea is more practical.

By the way, I am using an Ikea cabinet meant for sewing with a fold out section as my work station, have lined it with plastic insert material for drawers to protect the wood, this is really quite useful.

IMG_3586.jpg


——

Livestock Updates: My focus is still on peaceful fish, that includes no tangs. Aside from the Wrasse in quarantine, the display has 3 Chromis, 2 Clowns and 3 Lyretail Anthias which I all had for a long time. In the last 9 months or so I added 1 large Magnificent Foxface, 1 Copperband, 1 Blue Dot Goby and 1 Marine Betta.

They’re all very interesting fish, but some things to pay attention to: The Goby needs a lot of pods, and my tank doesn’t have enough, despite its size and it being over a year old now. He lost weight but I’ve trained him and target feed frozen and other foods - he is in better shape now, working on his cave and throwing sand over my mushroom colony. The Copperband is still not really eating any food floating in the water column (even though he did at the LFS) but I’m feeding him frozen whole clams now, that works well and he seems healthy, been in the tank for 3 months or so. Took good care of some Aptasia also.

IMG_3582.jpg
IMG_3583.jpg


Let me know if any questions.
 

mfollen

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Amazing. Great work on an awesome mixed reef! Love the coral selection.

For the flow and overflow, as your pumps adjust in speed does the 8226 water level in the overflow go up and down changing in noise? I’m trying to dial that in to reduce variance in sound. Thanks and awesome tank!
 
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Flore

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Amazing. Great work on an awesome mixed reef! Love the coral selection.

For the flow and overflow, as your pumps adjust in speed does the 8226 water level in the overflow go up and down changing in noise? I’m trying to dial that in to reduce variance in sound. Thanks and awesome tank!

Thank you. Yes this reef really is very mixed, all kinds of coral together.

The sound is fairly consistent (and low) for me once dialed in. I don’t really have problems on that front.
 

Devaji

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IMG_3579.jpg

IMG_3580.jpg

IMG_3581.jpg


So it's finally time to post some updates, sorry for the long silence. It’s been the usual ups and downs with the tank, so things are still in a bit of a state of flux, but that might be interesting to some of you as well.

The challenges I’ve faced over the last 6 months or so.

1) Nudibranches: Lost a lot of Monti / Digitata. Lessons to learn: If you start to see white spots and you can’t explain them, start looking very close. I spotted it way too late.

Ripped out most of what was remaining and moved to quarantine, and added a Tailspot Wrasse there, along with regular dipping and brushing I brought them under control. I kept the display tank Monti-free for 2 months, and have now added some pieces back because they didn’t survive in quarantine anymore (lack of lights, dosing etc). Hopefully the Nudis won’t come back.

2) Nitrate spike: My tank was notoriously low on nutrients, but this has changed a bit quite suddenly to the extent I didn’t notice it, and Nitrates spiked to 15ppm. I think that cause some damage to a 2-3 SPS colonies.

3) Gorilla Crab: I have a big one and have lose two SPS colonies on the same rock that he lives in (the big hole in one of the photos on the middle rock). It may be due to the Nitrate spike as well, but I am definitely keen to get him out of the tank.

4) Had a strange case of losing half my coralline algae in pretty much 24h. Could be related to the Nitrate spike but am not sure. You can still see the white spots on the rocks (all my rock was purple).

5) Chiller issue: The sensor failed and the chiller kept running indefinitely, cooling the tank to 23C in 12h, which I believe caused the loss of 2-3 colonies as well at the time. I am now running the chiller pump on the Apex so in such a case it can shut down the flow to the chiller. In the end you’re moving the points of failure around a bit though, since now a lot depends on the Apex probe working reliably.

——

Another lesson I learned is to not buy large non-branching Euphyllia coral. I just find them difficult to keep alive for longer than a few months or a year, lost two recently. The moment one piece gets damaged it seems impossible to save the rest of the colony, no matter how you frag / cut / glue… Going with multi-head branching types now, have some thriving ones in the tank.

I also told myself to not buy large Millipora colonies anymore. One of the corals I lost was a Milli, and even though only a small part was affected at first, it was impossible to save any frags, again no matter the cutting and gluing I tried - the skin is just very fragile it seems. This is the second one that I lost this way.

——

In terms of equipment, the tank also looks a bit messier than it used to when it comes to cabling etc right now. Will need to re-do parts of the cabinet soon. It was very clean originally, but after ripping out and changing equipment it needs work.

IMG_3584.jpg


I added a UV filter, which significantly helped some bubble algae issues in my view, the model is JBL ProCristal Compact UV-C 36 W run with a Jebao DCP-2500.

Also replaced my large 300W Eheim Heater with two JBL 300W for redundancy and because they fit into the sump more easily.

Another piece I added a was Reefbot for automatic water testing, testing Kh, Ca, MG, PO4, although I will switch MG with Nitrates now owing to above issue.

IMG_3588.jpg


I upgraded the main flow pump to a Gyre 350, and I’m still waiting for the Hydros Wave Engine to connect it to the Apex alongside my 2 Gyre 150s and the MP40. At this point I’ll add the second 150 which is now not used since I switched it for the 350 to the back side of the tank where the MP40 is.

IMG_3587.jpg


Another change I made is to convert part of the sump to a small frag section to get rid of the frags in the display, which had always annoyed me, but I couldn't be bothered to set up a dedicated tank - although I might consider one that is connected to the sump of the display at some point, but it's another set of piping, pumps etc... I had to replace my skimmer with a smaller one (the old one was oversized in my view anyway), which is the Aquamaxx FC180, to add the new section, and even then had to install the glass separator further to the front than the intended location (not quite happy with how that is done right now). One thing I can recommend - make your sump as big as you can to add “stuff”. I got a used Radion G3 and running it on the SPS AB+ program with low intensity, and I am using the return from the UV pump to create additional flow in the frag section.

IMG_3585.jpg


Lastly, I added a D&D Jumpguard pro cover since I’m going to add the Wrasse soon. Good product, almost not noticeable either. Just a bit annoying for feeding, so I made a small support stand so I can just angle it upwards instead of having to remove it.

In terms of the tank itself, after more than 12 months the only negative aspect is the glass overflow. It’s a pain to clean and your water level in the display rises slightly when the slits get clogged by algae. Removable plastic like the Red Sea is more practical.

By the way, I am using an Ikea cabinet meant for sewing with a fold out section as my work station, have lined it with plastic insert material for drawers to protect the wood, this is really quite useful.

IMG_3586.jpg


——

Livestock Updates: My focus is still on peaceful fish, that includes no tangs. Aside from the Wrasse in quarantine, the display has 3 Chromis, 2 Clowns and 3 Lyretail Anthias which I all had for a long time. In the last 9 months or so I added 1 large Magnificent Foxface, 1 Copperband, 1 Blue Dot Goby and 1 Marine Betta.

They’re all very interesting fish, but some things to pay attention to: The Goby needs a lot of pods, and my tank doesn’t have enough, despite its size and it being over a year old now. He lost weight but I’ve trained him and target feed frozen and other foods - he is in better shape now, working on his cave and throwing sand over my mushroom colony. The Copperband is still not really eating any food floating in the water column (even though he did at the LFS) but I’m feeding him frozen whole clams now, that works well and he seems healthy, been in the tank for 3 months or so. Took good care of some Aptasia also.

IMG_3582.jpg
IMG_3583.jpg


Let me know if any questions.

thanks for the update! tank looks amazing. sorry to read about your troubles but they seem over now, that is good.
I agree about the wall Euphyila once they get a spot the whole things goes :(
 
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Flore

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Some updates:

- Brown jelly disease cost me some Euphyllia. Such a pain, one by one I'm walking through all the typical issues you can have.

- Replace the MP40 with a Gyre 330 on one side but actually am regretting it a little, because I can't quite get the flow to reach the front anymore like with the MP40. As a reminder, all my pumps are on the overflow side, one Gyre 350 in the middle, one old Gyre 130 left of the overflow, and now a Gyre330 on the right. Need to play with this a little bit to get some peak flow to the front where the Euphyllia are. I might get another 350 for the side.
 

Vstryker

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How is your XF350 mounted in the middle? From the pics, looks like it's on the overflow. So what is normally the "dryside" magnet is submerged in the water I assume. I have two MP40's on either side on the 6026 but looking for more flow and thought the XF350 would be perfect. Do you know if the "dryside" magnet on the XF350 is rated for continuous submersion? Great looking tank!
 

skynite

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Can I ask what sand did you use?

With all the power heads on the back wall, the tank is looking clean. Is there enough flow in the front to keep the substrate clean?
 
Last edited:

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 45 21.3%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 73 34.6%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 70 33.2%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 19 9.0%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 1.9%
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