WC after cycle?

ReeferReefer

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So my Nuvo 30L has just finished cycling. I am going to transfer my corals over from my 90g. I am only bringing corals and cuc over, no fish.

Only thing is that I have seen many times that people recommend doing a water change after a cycle.

If all my levels are correct, what is the point of a water change exactly?

Nitrate is only 5 ppm.
 

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So my Nuvo 30L has just finished cycling. I am going to transfer my corals over from my 90g. I am only bringing corals and cuc over, no fish.

Only thing is that I have seen many times that people recommend doing a water change after a cycle.

If all my levels are correct, what is the point of a water change exactly?

Nitrate is only 5 ppm.
Personally I think its for peace of mind and replenishing some of the minerals found in water in this scenario. Better safe than sorry
 
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Personally I think its for peace of mind and replenishing some of the minerals found in water in this scenario. Better safe than sorry

I guess I am a bit confused. What minerals are being pulled out of the water during a cycle? I cycled with no lights on so what is consuming my minerals?
 

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I guess I am a bit confused. What minerals are being pulled out of the water during a cycle? I cycled with no lights on so what is consuming my minerals?
So a cycle is used to establish the good bacteria in your tank so it can handle fish waste, ammonia levels etc are indicators of that.
 

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Many people cycle using bottled ammonia these days, so a full waterchange is good for peace of mind to make sure there aren't any leftover contaminants. If you cycled using food or a shrimp, it might not be as big of a concern. Your alkalinity is likely to have dropped just due to time. Even freshly mixed saltwater sitting in a bucket will see alkalinity drop over a week or two.

Doing a full water change on your system will cost about $15. I think most people probably just think it's worth it to have a nice clean start.
 
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Many people cycle using bottled ammonia these days, so a full waterchange is good for peace of mind to make sure there aren't any leftover contaminants. If you cycled using food or a shrimp, it might not be as big of a concern. Your alkalinity is likely to have dropped just due to time. Even freshly mixed saltwater sitting in a bucket will see alkalinity drop over a week or two.

Doing a full water change on your system will cost about $15. I think most people probably just think it's worth it to have a nice clean start.

No worries. I am going to be doing a few water changes anyways just to be safe.

I was just wondering about the chemistry side of it. Alk makes sense.
 

cojo8888

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Tell me the reason you downgrade from 90g to 30g. I'm thinking to go up maybe 90g or 120g from 30g. Was harder to catch up maintenance? What was the main reason?
 
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Tell me the reason you downgrade from 90g to 30g. I'm thinking to go up maybe 90g or 120g from 30g. Was harder to catch up maintenance? What was the main reason?
I ram the 90 for 4 years. I found it difficult to fill the tank with corals over time. I am not the most advanced reefer so losses are a thing. My fish died from velvet.

I wanted smaller water changes, less glass to clean and less Livestock to stock.

Originally I was going to upgrade from the 90 to a 120 but I ended up downsizing instead.
 

brandon429

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one reason I like to have cyclers change all the water after a cycle (in smaller tanks where that's workable) is because I know they'll sneak back in a nitrite reading anyway, after we already called it cycled, and with a full change they know themselves there can't be any upon refill so if the test shows some, I don't have to convince them twice nitrite testing is a total complete waste of time. most unneeded kit in all of reefing alongside helium and argon testing for the reef.

people deeply subconsciously do not want to be cycled. they want to see a slight reading of noncompliance from any vial, its to remove all doubt for them before they self-inflict some :)
 

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