Weird Algae that grows stick like with white/greem algae breakout - Help, Im loosing this battle, calling out reef gurus

[SWFT]

Hello, I am new to this forum. I have a newish tank that has been running since November 2022. Been thru a couple of algae stages but had been dealing with left over algae that looks like white/green film-powder along with stick like algae that grows on some of my coral. It feel very slimy. I recently started to document my parameters using all Salifert tests except for ULR phosphate Hanna checker. I think for the most part my parameters are under control now (I do not know what it was prior to me getting Salifert tests) but I still struggle with algae. I thought it was Dino at some point but microscope did not identify tiny round moving Dinos I think. It is all over my tank including all my sump equipment and wall. It very easily flakes off and tiny flakes make my tank look like it's snowing until the mechanical filtration settles. Brushing the rock with tooth brush creates a snow storm and cloudy water for 30 mins or so. This stuff grows back right away it seems like. Also, get these stick like algae growing on my corals. Plucking them feels like plucking hair. Any help or course of action will be appreciated. I am starting to feel defeated.

So far I have tried Vibrant but I had a cyano breakout and tossed it away. I also have tried Dr. Tims sludge waste away remover without any luck. I am going to try Dr Tims pro biotic Eco Balance to see if it help this Friday. At this point, I am open to any help and recommendations because manual removal just seems like it grows it back in a day or two. My set up and measured parameters are below.

Tank: IM 25 Lagoon
Mechanical Filtration: IM Fleece Roller
Chemical Filtration: Blue Chemipure
Biological filtration: BioMax Filter Media (balls)
Skimmer: Recently installed icecap K1 nano skimmer (2 weeks old)
Water: RODI 0 TDS (confirmed with tester)
Light: 95W Smatfarm G5 set to 8hrs per day (60% blues mostly, whites set to 5%. )
Salt: Coralife BioCube Marine Fish Tank Aquarium Salt
UV Light: IM 9 Watt
Fish: Pair of clowns
CUC: Conch, snails, crabs...
Sand: Live Sand carib sea
Rock: Purple Dry Carib sea rock
WC: Weekly or bi-weeekly
Salinity: 1.025
Dosing: Magnesium, Calcium, AB+

My test parameters are below. Any help or tips from Reef Gurus will be highly appreciated. Was considering shutting down the tank due to this discouragement.

 

[Lavey29]

Perhaps chrysophites algae but your alk is excessively high with your bottomed out nitrates and you magnesium is quite low also.

 

[SWFT]

Perhaps chrysophites algae but your alk is excessively high with your bottomed out nitrates and you magnesium is quite low also.

Thank you for your reply. I will start researching about Chrysophites. Any recommendations on how to identify and confirm? Any treatment success recommendations?

I realized I tanked my magnesium. I’m currently supplementing Mg using Fritz and I hope to get it under control.

I may have also buttoned out my nitrates but it could be an incorrect reading because I did not follow correctly using Salifert’s low range instruction. I looked from the top instead of side for low range. But it was clear from the top. I have nitrate dosing on standby if I see it falling again. I also feed a good bit.

 

[Lavey29]

Thank you for your reply. I will start researching about Chrysophites. Any recommendations on how to identify and confirm? Any treatment success recommendations?

I realized I tanked my magnesium. I’m currently supplementing Mg using Fritz and I hope to get it under control.

I may have also buttoned out my nitrates but it could be an incorrect reading because I did not follow correctly using Salifert’s low range instruction. I looked from the top instead of side for low range. But it was clear from the top. I have nitrate dosing on standby if I see it falling again. I also feed a good bit.

It's just my guess based on your description but you really need to lower alk while you have low nitrates. Your alk should be 8 to 9dkh with your nutrient levels and magnesium is your buffer. As far as algae control, weekly water changes with manual removal, diverse cleaner crew with urchins and turbos. Cut lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only. Raising magnesium to 1500 can help with some forms of nuisance algae depending on type. These are not over night battles. Plan for several months. Work on correcting your numbers.

 

[SWFT]

It's just my guess based on your description but you really need to lower alk while you have low nitrates. Your alk should be 8 to 9dkh with your nutrient levels and magnesium is your buffer. As far as algae control, weekly water changes with manual removal, diverse cleaner crew with urchins and turbos. Cut lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only. Raising magnesium to 1500 can help with some forms of nuisance algae depending on type. These are not over night battles. Plan for several months. Work on correcting your numbers.

Thank you again. I think I have a starting plan and certainly understand it’s not going to be an overnight battle. The alk lowers with water changes (using the lower alk salt) but then appears to rise. Not sure where it’s coming from since I do not dose alk.

I also forgot to mention that the water stinks. It smells rotten to me. All my live stock is accounted for and I checked the sumps several time to make sure I don’t have anyone decaying. The smelly water is another clue.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

It is all over my tank including all my sump equipment and wall. It very easily flakes off and tiny flakes make my tank look like it's snowing until the mechanical filtration settles. Brushing the rock with tooth brush creates a snow storm and cloudy water for 30 mins or so.

Could this be precipitate?
@Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[UMALUM]

Hello, I am new to this forum. I have a newish tank that has been running since November 2022. Been thru a couple of algae stages but had been dealing with left over algae that looks like white/green film-powder along with stick like algae that grows on some of my coral. It feel very slimy. I recently started to document my parameters using all Salifert tests except for ULR phosphate Hanna checker. I think for the most part my parameters are under control now (I do not know what it was prior to me getting Salifert tests) but I still struggle with algae. I thought it was Dino at some point but microscope did not identify tiny round moving Dinos I think. It is all over my tank including all my sump equipment and wall. It very easily flakes off and tiny flakes make my tank look like it's snowing until the mechanical filtration settles. Brushing the rock with tooth brush creates a snow storm and cloudy water for 30 mins or so. This stuff grows back right away it seems like. Also, get these stick like algae growing on my corals. Plucking them feels like plucking hair. Any help or course of action will be appreciated. I am starting to feel defeated.

So far I have tried Vibrant but I had a cyano breakout and tossed it away. I also have tried Dr. Tims sludge waste away remover without any luck. I am going to try Dr Tims pro biotic Eco Balance to see if it help this Friday. At this point, I am open to any help and recommendations because manual removal just seems like it grows it back in a day or two. My set up and measured parameters are below.

Tank: IM 25 Lagoon
Mechanical Filtration: IM Fleece Roller
Chemical Filtration: Blue Chemipure
Biological filtration: BioMax Filter Media (balls)
Skimmer: Recently installed icecap K1 nano skimmer (2 weeks old)
Water: RODI 0 TDS (confirmed with tester)
Light: 95W Smatfarm G5 set to 8hrs per day (60% blues mostly, whites set to 5%. )
Salt: Coralife BioCube Marine Fish Tank Aquarium Salt
UV Light: IM 9 Watt
Fish: Pair of clowns
CUC: Conch, snails, crabs...
Sand: Live Sand carib sea
Rock: Purple Dry Carib sea rock
WC: Weekly or bi-weeekly
Salinity: 1.025
Dosing: Magnesium, Calcium, AB+

My test parameters are below. Any help or tips from Reef Gurus will be highly appreciated. Was considering shutting down the tank due to this discouragement.

I agree with @Lavey29 that you have to get your #s balanced but I'd bet my house the root cause of your problems is that rock. The material used to make that rock is notorious for leaching phosphate and silicate and should have never been introduced to the hobby. A 20 lb box of live rock will make your life a lot easier. Throw that stuff in the trash.

 

[Lavey29]

Thank you again. I think I have a starting plan and certainly understand it’s not going to be an overnight battle. The alk lowers with water changes (using the lower alk salt) but then appears to rise. Not sure where it’s coming from since I do not dose alk.

I also forgot to mention that the water stinks. It smells rotten to me. All my live stock is accounted for and I checked the sumps several time to make sure I don’t have anyone decaying. The smelly water is another clue.

Run carbon for the odor. If your magnesium is way low then your losing your buffer which may be the source of your alk rising. Weekly water changes are the easiest method to correct things. Dose some magnesium to raise it up over a couple weeks.

 

[SWFT]

I agree with @Lavey29 that you have to get your #s balanced but I'd bet my house the root cause of your problems is that rock. The material used to make that rock is notorious for leaching phosphate and silicate and should have never been introduced to the hobby. A 20 lb box of live rock will make your life a lot easier. Throw that stuff in the trash.

With my first tank, I used live rock from LFS and my tank got infested with a bunch of critters that overtook the tank and killed my snails.

With my new tank, I decided to get the carbi sea dry rock based on what everyone used. I was not aware of this rock leeching phosphate and silicate. Im surprised many reefers using this rock with success. This forum actually convinced me to purchase the dry rock.

Any recommendations where I can purchase live rock online without any critters?

 

[therootcause]

Hello. Plenty of people have used that rock and not had the same problem you are having. Don't ditch the scape.

I see you are using salifert and hanna testing equipment.
How are you measuring salinity? How confident are you in its accuracy?
I see you re dosing calcium, but how are you measuring calcium? It is not charted.

I do not see how you have 13+ alkalinity and normal salinity.

 

[UMALUM]

With my first tank, I used live rock from LFS and my tank got infested with a bunch of critters that overtook the tank and killed my snails.

With my new tank, I decided to get the carbi sea dry rock based on what everyone used. I was not aware of this rock leeching phosphate and silicate. Im surprised many reefers using this rock with success. This forum actually convinced me to purchase the dry rock.

Any recommendations where I can purchase live rock online without any critters?

I'm not sure where you can buy anything for your tank that doesn't have the chance of having critters. As for the rock your gonna want to allow for a 2 - 3 week cure while this is happening is when you decide what critters you want to keep and which you don't. It's not hard, it's actually kinda fun seeing what comes out to say hi. There's two well respected vendors for rock KP AQUADICS and TBS Liverock. I used KP and can vouch for the owner and his product.

 

[therootcause]

I'm not sure where you can buy anything for your tank that doesn't have the chance of having critters. As for the rock your gonna want to allow for a 2 - 3 week cure while this is happening is when you decide what critters you want to keep and which you don't. It's not hard, it's actually kinda fun seeing what comes out to say hi. There's two well respected vendors for rock KP AQUADICS and TBS Liverock. I used KP and can vouch for the owner and his product.

Florida maricultured live rock is an easy way to add mantis shrimp to your system.

KP Aquatics


Salty Bottom Reef Co. (Excellent build thread below)

DaJMasta's 45G AIO Cube Mixed Reef

Current FTS: Equipment: Red Sea Max E170 AIO tank and stand Red Sea DIY mesh lid Ecotech Marine Radion XR30 Pro light Ice Cap K1-50 Skimmer w/ custom mount and SR Aquaristatik DC300GPH skimmer pump Santa Monica Systems Drop 1.2X turf algae scrubber w/ tapped off airline from my culturing air pump...

wamas.org

 

[UMALUM]

Hello. Plenty of people have used that rock and not had the same problem you are having. Don't ditch the scape.

I see you are using salifert and hanna testing equipment.
How are you measuring salinity? How confident are you in its accuracy?
I see you re dosing calcium, but how are you measuring calcium? It is not charted.

I do not see how you have 13+ alkalinity and normal salinity.

Yeah that's the first thing I do when combating an algae problem is check my salinity, Calcium, and Alkalinity. His phosphates are all over the map and the cause of it is that rock.

 

[UMALUM]

Florida maricultured live rock is an easy way to add mantis shrimp to your system.

KP Aquatics


Salty Bottom Reef Co. (Excellent build thread below)

DaJMasta's 45G AIO Cube Mixed Reef

Current FTS: Equipment: Red Sea Max E170 AIO tank and stand Red Sea DIY mesh lid Ecotech Marine Radion XR30 Pro light Ice Cap K1-50 Skimmer w/ custom mount and SR Aquaristatik DC300GPH skimmer pump Santa Monica Systems Drop 1.2X turf algae scrubber w/ tapped off airline from my culturing air pump...

wamas.org

And dry rock is the easiest way to have diatom, dinos, gha, turf, cyano, the list goes on.

 

[SWFT]

Hello. Plenty of people have used that rock and not had the same problem you are having. Don't ditch the scape.

I see you are using salifert and hanna testing equipment.
How are you measuring salinity? How confident are you in its accuracy?
I see you re dosing calcium, but how are you measuring calcium? It is not charted.

I do not see how you have 13+ alkalinity and normal salinity.

I am measuring salinity daily with a refractometer. The process I am using is I first calibrate it with this fluid:
Once calibrated, I measure the salinity. I'm fairly confident unless the fluid is not stable or calibrated. Any tips to validate the accuracy? Do I need another measuring device?

oops, I forgot to add the calcium chart. I also measure it using Salifert.

I do not understand how I have 13+ alkalinity and normal salinity as well. In fact, I actually had to raise the salinity from 1.023 to 1.025 once I got the calibrated fluid. Salinity was raised gradually by 9/29. I was using the oceans salt which does have higher alkalinity I think and I do not have a lot of coral consuming it. Could it be a build up over time? Water changes lower the alk but then towards the end of the week alk spiked. Im baffled.

I'm not sure where you can buy anything for your tank that doesn't have the chance of having critters. As for the rock your gonna want to allow for a 2 - 3 week cure while this is happening is when you decide what critters you want to keep and which you don't. It's not hard, it's actually kinda fun seeing what comes out to say hi. There's two well respected vendors for rock KP AQUADICS and TBS Liverock. I used KP and can vouch for the owner and his product.

I will take a look, thanks! I think my previous experience spooked me away from meeting new friends lol

Florida maricultured live rock is an easy way to add mantis shrimp to your system.

KP Aquatics


Salty Bottom Reef Co. (Excellent build thread below)

DaJMasta's 45G AIO Cube Mixed Reef

Current FTS: Equipment: Red Sea Max E170 AIO tank and stand Red Sea DIY mesh lid Ecotech Marine Radion XR30 Pro light Ice Cap K1-50 Skimmer w/ custom mount and SR Aquaristatik DC300GPH skimmer pump Santa Monica Systems Drop 1.2X turf algae scrubber w/ tapped off airline from my culturing air pump...

wamas.org

Thanks for this, I will take a look.

 

[therootcause]

I am measuring salinity daily with a refractometer. The process I am using is I first calibrate it with this fluid:
Once calibrated, I measure the salinity. I'm fairly confident unless the fluid is not stable or calibrated. Any tips to validate the accuracy? Do I need another measuring device?

Do you have a reefing friend, club, or LFS that could also measure the salinity? I really want to make sure you are using the appropriate type of refractometer for salinity as opposed to one that may be used for brewing.

I know you mentioned manual removal hasn't been very successful. Despite that, if I was in your case, I would blow off rocks with a turkey baster, then prepare a water change and gravel vac into a bucket. Once I have the waste water in a bucket I would pull out each rock and scrub it off with a brush/toothbrush in the old tank water. Give it a shake while submerged in the old water and then put it back into the tank. Do this for the entire scape. I think you'll see improvement immediately. Leave lights off for a day and observe. How extensive is your "conch, snails, crab" cleanup crew?