What are these on my Bonsai Valida

[Coralfuture]

You can frag those colonies but you’ll still have to dip/inspect/fallout from DT so you may as well do the whole colonies. If you were local I’d say come on over my QT systems are open! I recommend Bayer for the process as it is cheaper than alternatives and works well. Doesn’t kill the eggs but neither do any of the others. Also yes your QT Rubbermaid will need light...great light...maybe? I try to keep my QTs as close to my reef as I can so I can just carry them over and drop them in my DT. Either way good luck with the battle ahead!

 

[Reef Able]

You can frag those colonies but you’ll still have to dip/inspect/fallout from DT so you may as well do the whole colonies. If you were local I’d say come on over my QT systems are open! I recommend Bayer for the process as it is cheaper than alternatives and works well. Doesn’t kill the eggs but neither do any of the others. Also yes your QT Rubbermaid will need light...great light...maybe? I try to keep my QTs as close to my reef as I can so I can just carry them over and drop them in my DT. Either way good luck with the battle ahead!

So shall I take all those listed above

 

[erk]

-Birdsnest (Seriatopora sp)
-Montipora (cap/plating and branching) (Montipora sp)
-Millepora (Acropora sp)
- Acro Secale (Acropora sp)
- Acro Valida (Acropora sp)
- Deepwater Acro (Acropora sp)
- Red Dragon acro (Acropora sp)
- Pocillopora (Pocillopora sp)
- Cyphastrea (Cyphastrea sp)

Those labeled as Acropora sp are the affected. All others are not in the Acropora genus. Hope this helps.

 

[Coralfuture]

Montipora & Cyphastrea are safe and do not need treatment as AEFW will not touch them. May lay eggs on or near them but wont actually be able to feed on them.

 

[littleruttiger]

Another alternative is API Melafix Marine, I've used that. I prefer it to Bayer, generally speaking, because it's clear.
The key for me was frequent dips, and to make sure absolutely every piece of every acro was dipped - you'll start to see the aefw kind of have a sort of seizure within maybe thirty seconds, and can then shake them off. Make sure no pieces are left on the rocks to sustain them.
Although, I only had frags, if you have large colonies, the shaking/inspecting might not be viable, and you may need to dip longer, or with a stronger dip. The downside of that, at least in my opinion, is then the dipping is stressing an already stressed coral.

 

[Reef Able]

Those labeled as Acropora sp are the affected. All others are not in the Acropora genus. Hope this helps.

Ok that really helps and make my life much easier because the acros are small frags except for one colony. So now it makes much easier for me to remove them and store them separately for 8 weeks. Does anyone know the procedure on how to treat them outside and apart from power head heater and light what else do I need in there? Thanks for your help guys

 

[Gareth elliott]

Ok that really helps and make my life much easier because the acros are small frags except for one colony. So now it makes much easier for me to remove them and store them separately for 8 weeks. Does anyone know the procedure on how to treat them outside and apart from power head heater and light what else do I need in there? Thanks for your help guys

Your going to want to maintain them, so high flow, high light. Temp and chemistry should mimic what your dt is.
I would dip biweekly. Enough to break up the life cycle but not constantly harass the corals.

Minimum time in QT is going to be about 35 days. 7 day maximum lifespan of adults after starvation + 21 incubation period + 7 day maximum life span of any that hatch. Now unknown fecundity rates during times of starvation may add or subtract from these numbers. At 4mm it has been shown recorded that AEFW possess male and female reproduction glands. Meaning that the second generation without a source of food maybe unable to reach reproductive maturity. This still requires further study on more populations for when maturity is reached.
Paraphrased
Dr. Kate Rawlinson - Cambridge
On 2011 and 2013 studies she published

 

[Reef Able]

The red smothering the whole tank is red planeria, not AEFW. I fully understand that they are encrusted onto your rocks. Pulling all your acros and rocks out and taking a paint scraper to them to chisel off the encrusted acros is no fun. I have done it.

All tanks do not have aefw and we do not always have them in our tanks. I thought I was good when I took out the frag that looked bad but then i decided to cut a healthy frag from across the tank and dip it. Sure enough, worms blew off.

If you leave them in there, you risk any acro you put in dying and you really shouldnt trade with other hobbyists. There is a lot of research out there on them and even on this site. Best of luck with your battle!

When i go to home after work i will take a healthy frag from across the tank and do the dip and post the update.. Ethics is more important to me than hobby...

Your going to want to maintain them, so high flow, high light. Temp and chemistry should mimic what your dt is.
I would dip biweekly. Enough to break up the life cycle but not constantly harass the corals.

Minimum time in QT is going to be about 35 days. 7 day maximum lifespan of adults after starvation + 21 incubation period + 7 day maximum life span of any that hatch. Now unknown fecundity rates during times of starvation may add or subtract from these numbers. At 4mm it has been shown recorded that AEFW possess male and female reproduction glands. Meaning that the second generation without a source of food maybe unable to reach reproductive maturity. This still requires further study on more populations for when maturity is reached.
Paraphrased
Dr. Kate Rawlinson - Cambridge
On 2011 and 2013 studies she published

Thanks..When you say Dip so this is what i understand correct me if i am wrong...
- Add NEW WATER with similar salinity, temp to the new tank/container. For lights i will use a spare AI PRIME i have..
-Monitor the ph, Cal and Alk weekly basis to match with Display
- Place the Acros in this tank
- Dip them in REVIVE biweekly for 6-8 weeks outside the holding tank
- Put the corals back in the display after qt period is completed

 

[Reef Able]

When i go to home after work i will take a healthy frag from across the tank and do the dip and post the update.. Ethics is more important to me than hobby...


Thanks..When you say Dip so this is what i understand correct me if i am wrong...
- Add NEW WATER with similar salinity, temp to the new tank/container. For lights i will use a spare AI PRIME i have..
-Monitor the ph, Cal and Alk weekly basis to match with Display
- Place the Acros in this tank
- Dip them in REVIVE biweekly for 6-8 weeks outside the holding tank
- Put the corals back in the display after qt period is completed

- Do i need to add a Protein skimmer?

 

[Gareth elliott]

- Do i need to add a Protein skimmer?

That plan sounds perfect
If this is just going to be the acros, and is just a qt, i personally would not. Your not going to be feeding fish so no appreciable additions of amino acids and small pwc should be plenty. An ato might be beneficial given the qts limited water volume a small amount of evaporation could easily sway salinity. So maintain like a nano reef.

 

[Reef Able]

Ok great one last question when I dip them do I make individual dipping solution for each coral separately or I can use the same solution and dip one coral at a time? I will just top up the water manually as I only have one ATO which is hooked up to my display

 

[Gareth elliott]

Ok great one last question when I dip them do I make individual dipping solution for each coral separately or I can use the same solution and dip one coral at a time? I will just top up the water manually as I only have one ATO which is hooked up to my display

You can can use the same solution batch. Also a simple mounted and inverted water bottle can act as a cheap ato alternative. Just keep the rim of water bottle little bit below the water line.

 

[Reef Able]

You can can use the same solution batch. Also a simple mounted and inverted water bottle can act as a cheap ato alternative. Just keep the rim of water bottle little bit below the water line.

Perfect...i was thinking about the water bottle idea as well and let the gravity feed the water controlling it with an airline tube and valve...thanks guys its time to get going now...not sure if this will 100% guarantee pest free tank but if this is the practice thts practiced and proven than i will do my due deligence as well...just another learning curve...

 

[happyhourhero]

I am truly sorry you have to go through this! It really took the wind out of my sails when I had to do it. Be sure to get every speck of acro out of the display or its all for nothing. I had to take rocks and put them under blues while I scraped them off to make sure I was getting everything. It would suck to be 3 weeks into your fallow period to see that you missed some and its still growing in your tank.

FWIW I tried to save my colonies too but ultimately threw in the towel. It is hard to keep ideal conditions in a smaller, hastily set up container and as such, I kept encountering STN/RTN. Lost everything.

 

[Reef Able]

I am truly sorry you have to go through this! It really took the wind out of my sails when I had to do it. Be sure to get every speck of acro out of the display or its all for nothing. I had to take rocks and put them under blues while I scraped them off to make sure I was getting everything. It would suck to be 3 weeks into your fallow period to see that you missed some and its still growing in your tank.

FWIW I tried to save my colonies too but ultimately threw in the towel. It is hard to keep ideal conditions in a smaller, hastily set up container and as such, I kept encountering STN/RTN. Lost everything.

Thanks buddy it is what it is...this i take as part of the hobby...i was looking at my tank last night and almost decided to put the towel but something in me kept telling me dont quit fight back and so i will....luckily all my acros are easily removable so that makes my job a littler easier except for couple colonies which are encrusted so i will just break the rock as close to the colony's encrusting foot as possible and than break the colony up at the healthy part and trash that broken rock in the garbage...i wouldnt loose much hopefully but it is doable....
have you heard that saying WHEN IT RAINS IT POURS guess what i arrived last night to a fried up Apex that i had been using for the past 5 years...it lived its life but it has to happen on the same day lol....i ordered a new 2016....

 

[Reef Able]

So i always like to come back and update my thread with the intention of helping future readers. I have found so many threads with no end note and i dont like that. What i did was removed the Valida colony pictured earlier and garbaged it. Than the 2nd Valida frag was taken out and dipped for couple of weeks in Revive and placed back in the main system. All the other acros stayed in the system. I added a Yellow Coris, a Six Line, Rube Red, Lubbocki and Solar Wrasses to the tank. Within 2 weeks all corals bounced back to their glory. Taking the corals out of the tank was not an option since tht would guarantee their death due to changes in the condition. Keeping them in the tank would atleast give them chance to survive and hence i went with a more natural way of dealing with the issue...Thanks to all of you who chimed in with your experiences and advice, it is greatly appreciated...Here are some shots of the tank taken today...