What is it?

[DadHeller]

Attached a few pictures on how the tank looks under the blue light schedule I have and pics under white light.

While I assume this is the ugly phase, I just want to be sure. Not sure what I need to do. Do I let it run its course, add chemicals, add an urchin, brush the rock off? I do the turkey baster but it doesn't seem to do anything.

My levels as of 11/6 are attached. I'll test again tomorrow and post those.

Tank is a 40 gallon breeder with a 40 gallon breeder sump. I'm using a reefmat, simplicity skimmer, and some Porous Nano Media in that sump.

Just looking for some guidance. Thanks in advance.

 

[Reef By Steele]

Yes it appears that you are starting the ugly phase. I am not a proponent of adding chemicals to solve issues. Especially not one that have natural remedies. Looks like nitrates and phosphates are on the rise, have you done water changes, and how frequently? You will be told that the ugly phase is a fact of life, but you can lessen or eliminate it naturally. You have enough growing to add a CUC. I like reef cleaners.org as you can get a nice assortment. If you haven’t had a diatom blow yet, dosing a phytoplankton with diatoms (yes I know, but they are different) like Thalassiosira, Chaetoceros or Pheaodactilum will help to lessen or avoid it altogether as they will consume the silicates present that the brown diatoms need to exist. The phytoplankton has to be live and regular dosing if it will help reduce your nutrients as well. Copepods and amphipods can really help to eliminate algae especially Tisbe pods which get into the tiniest cracks and eat the algae all the way to the roots.

 

[DadHeller]

Yes it appears that you are starting the ugly phase. I am not a proponent of adding chemicals to solve issues. Especially not one that have natural remedies. Looks like nitrates and phosphates are on the rise, have you done water changes, and how frequently? You will be told that the ugly phase is a fact of life, but you can lessen or eliminate it naturally. You have enough growing to add a CUC. I like reef cleaners.org as you can get a nice assortment. If you haven’t had a diatom blow yet, dosing a phytoplankton with diatoms (yes I know, but they are different) like Thalassiosira, Chaetoceros or Pheaodactilum will help to lessen or avoid it altogether as they will consume the silicates present that the brown diatoms need to exist. The phytoplankton has to be live and regular dosing if it will help reduce your nutrients as well. Copepods and amphipods can really help to eliminate algae especially Tisbe pods which get into the tiniest cracks and eat the algae all the way to the roots.

I do have a couple emerald crabs and a couple hermit crabs as well as a few snails. I also have 1 cleaner shrimp and 3 fire shrimp. Fish wise, I have 2 clowns, 2 cardinal, 1 blue green cromis, a lawnmower blenny, oh and a goby and pistol shrimp.

I have been doing water changes every other week about 20%.

I was looking at adding galaxy pods? Is that a good option or should I look a different direction?

 

[Reef By Steele]

Well I’m obviously biased. But at $65 for a 16 Oz jar, I would suggest you order our colossal pods or titanic pods. Both are a 6 pod combo blend of Tigriopus, Tisbe, Apocyclops, pseudo, Acartia and Parvo, the titanic has rotifers added so either has the same amount of pods, the rotifers are added sieved and rinsed into the mix, not added as a water volume or filler. Plus we are doing 50% more pods this week for Black Friday. Our colossal run $34 for a 16 Oz or $59 for a 32 Oz so a lot better deal.

I got started by culturing my own, and while recovering from a shoulder surgery started to sell them as a way to help pay for the materials, but R2R community has been so good my wife and I are trying to make this work so I don’t have to go back to contracting.

Check them out here.

COLOSSAL POD BUFFET

FRESH LIVE COPEPOD BLEND includes Tigriopus, Apocyclops, Tisbe copepods with Rotifers added for increased biodiversity and nutritional value for you saltwater or reef aquarium. live food, pods, reef tank, nutrient control, algae control

reefbysteele.com

 

[Reef By Steele]

Which ever way you go, dose live phytoplankton to help them establish colonies. The Tisbe and Apos are most likely to colonize on one attempt, but it also depends on water quality, food source, and amount of predation.

 

[DadHeller]

Do you sell that also?

How much do you reccomend I add and how often?

Do I just pour it in?

Sorry new guy disease

 

[vetteguy53081]

Attached a few pictures on how the tank looks under the blue light schedule I have and pics under white light.

While I assume this is the ugly phase, I just want to be sure. Not sure what I need to do. Do I let it run its course, add chemicals, add an urchin, brush the rock off? I do the turkey baster but it doesn't seem to do anything.

My levels as of 11/6 are attached. I'll test again tomorrow and post those.

Tank is a 40 gallon breeder with a 40 gallon breeder sump. I'm using a reefmat, simplicity skimmer, and some Porous Nano Media in that sump.

Just looking for some guidance. Thanks in advance.

Based on color and appearance, may be a light coverage of cyano bacteria. Dont let bacteria scare you. Cyano is and can be purple, green, yellow, orange and red.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 2-3 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 2-3 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Reef By Steele]

Do you sell that also?

How much do you reccomend I add and how often?

Do I just pour it in?

Sorry new guy disease

Yes we sell a blend of 10 strains of phytoplankton. 3 are diatoms, plus 2 golden and one red , all six of these are high in HUFA Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acids and 4 nice rich greens. All harvested and shipped fresh. If you purchase with pods on the site we discount the combo. Plus this week we offer 10% off, no code needed. Free 2 Day over $50 so if you were to order by Sunday night we would have them to you Wednesday.

 

[DadHeller]

Based on color and appearance, may be a light coverage of cyano bacteria. Dont let bacteria scare you. Cyano is and can be purple, green, yellow, orange and red.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 2-3 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 2-3 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Do you reccomend a specific type or brand of liquid bacteria? Just regular hydrogen peroxide?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do you reccomend a specific type or brand of liquid bacteria? Just regular hydrogen peroxide?

3% standard peroxide from walmart or similar and Brightwell MicroBacter 7 or XLM

 

[Reef By Steele]

Do you sell that also?

How much do you reccomend I add and how often?

Do I just pour it in?

Sorry new guy disease

So I recommend dosing 1-3ml per gallon of actual water volume per day. 1 for fish only, or lightly stocked, 2 for decently stocked reefs and three for heavily stocked reefs or reefs with filter feeders like clams, gorgonia, NPS (Non Photosynthetic Stony) corals. (I try to spell out the abreviations as I remember wondering what they were when I started.) Phyto can be stored in the fridge with lid loose and shaken daily for up to 3 months.

I dose phyto with the return pump off when I feed. The pods add at least an hour after lights off and add them all the night they arrive. We suggest after lights out to avoid a feeding frenzy. If you have a refugium with macroalgae add half of the pods to the fuge.

 

[Reef By Steele]

As for size, a 16 Oz of pods would be my normal recommendation for a 40 gallon, with the 50% bonus it would be great, that being said, 50% bonus on the 32 would really load it up.

Assuming you have 40-60 gallons actual water volume a 64 Oz phyto has 1892 ml so would dose for a month.