What kind of algae/bacteria is this?

Saisori

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It become stringy later in the day. Originally I was feeding extra as most LFS recommend beneficial bacteria were being out competed but that just raised my nitrates after 2 weeks. I'm thinking about doing a black out and reducing my light period from 8 hr to 6hr a day.

1709589101754.png
 

REEFRIED!

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Without a microscope pic it’s still hard to say. I think most will tell you it’s Cyano, but to me it looks like Dino’s. I believe LCA
 

vetteguy53081

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It become stringy later in the day. Originally I was feeding extra as most LFS recommend beneficial bacteria were being out competed but that just raised my nitrates after 2 weeks. I'm thinking about doing a black out and reducing my light period from 8 hr to 6hr a day.

1709589101754.png
This has the characteristics of dinoflagellates. Generally, biological deficiencies cause the dino structure and Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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Saisori

Saisori

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This has the characteristics of dinoflagellates. Generally, biological deficiencies cause the dino structure and Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

I'm going to try this, I usually do a full black out with a trash bag over the tank because it sit next to another tank and they both have same schedule. Will Dr Time Waste away work? and should I try 1ML per 10G every day for 5 days?
 
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Saisori

Saisori

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Today is day 5 and look like most of the bacteria is gone. There just some left. Should I continue the black out?
 

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