What makes a refugium light a refugium light? (Share your setup!) | BRStv Investigates

phillygeeks

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I use a TaoTronics 2 watt LED grow bulb in a cheap hang on socket from the hardware store. It is mounted 6 inches above the water of my sump. Just below the water surface (6.5 inches from the light) the PAR read 1150, at a depth of 6 inches from the water surface (12 inches from the source) the PAR is 550 and at 12 inches from the water surface (18 inches from source) the PAR reads 499 using the Apogee SQ-420 sensor
 

hart24601

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I haven't explored this enough to say this for certain but I think a lot of reefers may find that a high powered fuge strips too much of the carbon dioxide from the water. Net result is the pH will be higher than desirable and you actually need a skimmer to introduce more co2 and keep the pH down. This is counter intuitive to the way that many reefers think about this type of thing but I can tell you for sure the skimmers in the office lower the pH because of the amount of co2 in the air is higher than what's in the tank.

however, if this is the purpose for the skimmer it can probably the cheapest skimmer out there.
Like this?

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/very-high-ph-8-7.321486/
 

bif24701

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I put a Chinese LED Grow light intended for smoke I assume as all the reviews referred to growing it well. It draws ~130 watts actual, with fan, puts out same if not more PAR than the H380 and spectrum is similar to the Kessil put more strong on the blues than reds unlike the H380. I am throwing away a huge mass every two weeks, nearly fills a 5 gallon bucket! Just a few days ago I essentially doubled the flow through it by replacing the 3/4" braded vinyl with 1" PVC feeding the fuge. Performance as far as pH help has had a dramatic increase and seems to be growing even faster.




Lots and lots of PODS!




The shape of the light and spread is perfect for this sized fuge.


pH improved drastically the first night.
a629802ba57270b5128f92e33552d9bc.png


I love having a big fuge, the amount of work it does is obvious when you harvest.
 

bif24701

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Some how Photobucket made some of my chaeto disappear.
378420a1335401bfe6f18785429df84a.jpg
 

Bouncingsoul39

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Bonfish

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I am running a 2x 24" t5 unit with Geismen superflora bulbs with great results.
 

bif24701

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Orm Embar

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I would add my voice to those concerned about Caulerpa as a refugium macroalgae - I have also had it "go sexual" and cloud the tank, only to start regrowing over everything. I lost a tank that way . . . which is a shame, as Caulerpa is actually a really beautiful macroalgae. I stick to chaeto, dragon's breath, and gracilaria these days (I do want some ochtodes/hypnea, but probably ochtodes as hypnea got eaten in a day by my hermit crabs).

On a different note, I like the grow bulbs (red and blue) as well - https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Light-Organic-Style-plants/dp/B01ARI3HIG
 

bif24701

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I think we all agree that the RapidLED is just the worst. @Ryanbrs, you've got to know that the PAR38 is terrible. Years ago it was competitive however now it's dead.

I have seen almost any and every type and size of CFL on refugiums and grow chaeto so I don't see the comparison here being all that antiquated.
 

Emerson

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I've been running an H80 over a small 8"x12" fuge section in my 20L gal sump for my 75 gal DT two months into cycling (new build, up since March). $129 for the light, and another $25 for a gooseneck seems a little much, but space is a concern and the H380 (still double the price) seemed like overkill for such a small area. Initially I had the H80 mounted to the underside of the tank stand, about 24" above the sump water level. Chaeto was growing, with zero PO4 and ~5-10ppm NO3. Also running BRS GFO/Carbon reactor. The spill light outside the reticulum refugium did grow green slime algae in my reactor and skimmer, as well as other parts of my sump.
A month ago I cleaned the sump system of green slime algae. I moved the H80 and mounted it to the side of the sump using the Kessil house gooseneck, ~8" above the water level. Definitely more/better chaeto growth, and less slime algae elsewhere; PO4 still zero, NO3 now undetectable/unreadable.
Next cycle for GFO/Carbon change I'm going to skip the GFO and see how the chaeto does on its own for PO4 control.
Maybe related: I've been battling a cyano outbreak for a month.
 

reefluvrr

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Thanks for the great info as always!

Curious if you would consider using a LED red/blue grow light instead of using a PAR 38 light in a fuge?
 

Mike.kel

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I have a 18" two bulb t5 light. Have used it with a rose and daylight colored bulb. Awesome coverage. They set in the top edge of my sump. 1/2" of water and 9" of air between the chaeto and the light. Has noooo problem outmatching the power the display lights produce. I recommend it to anyone.
 

Ashish Patel

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It depends on how much nutrient demand your putting on your system really. For my 130 gallon water volume I use a small fuge with a gooseneck light bulb holder with a $25 5K LED bulb.. Chaeto grows faster then I am willing to prune and keeps my NO <1PPM and PO around 0.02-0.05. I recently started running the photoperiod at 16 hours and found it grows much faster.

This picture was from 5 months ago LR is removed as cheato needs space to grow

20170624_021508.jpg
 

Berlibee

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I'm not sure how to understand my Kessil ... it's burning out the chaeto like crazy. It's just become white over night in the middle.
I've changed the position of the light, now it's about 6" over the water level and about 11" over the chaeto itself I've fixed it in a "egg crates sandwich" and it's still burning it.
Red algae like Gracilaria also have burning tips time to time but tolerate better this light.

I Run it opposite to the display light cycle, average pH is 7.9 and difference between Day / Night is 0.1 so it's a very minor swing after the lights are OFF in the display tank.
But again, not crazy growth, lot of dead bubbly green chaeto on the surface etc.

PS: This is not the current look of the refugium.

Kessil_R.jpg
 

Ryanbrs

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I'm not sure how to understand my Kessil ... it's burning out the chaeto like crazy. It's just become white over night in the middle.
I've changed the position of the light, now it's about 6" over the water level and about 11" over the chaeto itself I've fixed it in a "egg crates sandwich" and it's still burning it.
Red algae like Gracilaria also have burning tips time to time but tolerate better this light.

I Run it opposite to the display light cycle, average pH is 7.9 and difference between Day / Night is 0.1 so it's a very minor swing after the lights are OFF in the display tank.
But again, not crazy growth, lot of dead bubbly green chaeto on the surface etc.

PS: This is not the current look of the refugium.

Kessil_R.jpg

In that image, it looks like the light is like 4 or 5 inches off the water. The PAR levels in the center are probably like 2000+. I would try and raise the light. If you can't do that put it off to the side a bit. It is possible the cheato could be acclimated to that level of light. I would maybe try a diffuser panel from home depot. You can find it near the lighting panel section.
 

Berlibee

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Yes :) I've said in my message that I've changed it already to another position. If it will not adjust will need to think about other options. Thanks.
 

ReefLEDLights

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I use a 110gal tall with lots of LR fro my Refug... Its lit with Our DIY Royal Blue and Cool White LEDs. Macro Algae grow like crazy. I export about 1/2 a salt bucket a month.

This setup is not friendly to Cheato as there is limited Red Spectrum. Cheato and a few others thrive in shallow water. If you want Cheato I would go with a Mix of 410-470nm LEDs (Violet, Royal Blue and Blue) with an even mix of White, Red and Photo Red LEDs. This is basically our grow board which has proven great for hydroponics as well.

CRI 057 Plant.jpg


If you are on a budget, the Cree CXA 2530 is a single chip led with a proven record of growing "Tomatoes" in Colorado... I've had a friend use it to grow Phyto and the count came out to be the same as his T5 but at 1/2 the electricity and no annual bulb replacement.

d18eb9b6-b737-4782-941a-ec70b566ab56.png


I would avoid EBay Import fixtures especially in the sump area as they often have exposed (not IP63 or 62 rated) and non CE or UL listed electrical parts. These do not play well in a high humidity high salt air environment like a sump.
 

Orm Embar

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bif24701

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This is my biweekly harvest (2 weeks).
f6bf9f022d1a24e81cc6cfaea136f1cb.jpg

This is a huge amount for any fuge.

My light was picked up new for <$100.00.
6fee08caa046c063bd036c623fc19b31.jpg


This is what it looks like after the harvest. Need to siphon the bottom soon. Just cleaned the glass, clean glass reflects more light back onto the cheato.
38c947c9d7f512f71b0a376514a346d9.jpg
 

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