Which carbon would you recommend?
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SaraB
2500 Club Member
I'm a believer that there is a big difference in carbon.
The topic of carbon and fish health was covered in Coral Magazine and touched on in the Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine. Please note, it is not only Tangs that can get HLLE: Activated carbon indicted in inducing head and lateral line erosion — Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine
I personally run BRS Lignite Large in my system and rinse it well!
The topic of carbon and fish health was covered in Coral Magazine and touched on in the Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine. Please note, it is not only Tangs that can get HLLE: Activated carbon indicted in inducing head and lateral line erosion — Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine
I personally run BRS Lignite Large in my system and rinse it well!
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Most gac is the same...however what form it comes in makes a difference. It has been thought that the dust from it causes (hlle)...i would try to use a thicker grained gac or at least rinse it before use.
BRS Lignite large for me. There is a significant difference in the various carbon grades. Use a good grade for performance reasons and to keep that dust out of our tank. Best performance can be realized by using a reactor and filling the chamber so that the carbon doesn't tumble. GFO needs to tumble slightly as a "fluid," but carbon should not tumble. If you are using passive carbon filtration, i.e., in a bag in a high-flow area, every couple of days you should "rearrange" the carbon granules to expose new surfaces and to make sure the bag itself isn't getting clogged with debris.
Gary
Gary
Troylee
all about the diy!!!!!
here is a pretty good write up about carbon....
Activated carbon is by far the biggest selling maintenance product in the aquarium industry and is one of the most effective absorbents currently used.
However, using activated carbon in fresh or saltwater aquarium is a controversial subject and opinions ranged from “never use it” to “can’t live without it”. Let’s have a look at this product:
What is Activated Carbon?
When carbon is treated by either chemical (with phosphoric acid or zinc) or termal (glasification or carbonization) reaction, all impurities are released which open up millions of tiny pores between the carbon atoms. This process gives the carbon a large surface area in contact with water. It can have anywhere from 300 to 2,000 square meters of surface area per gram. This forms the substance we call activated carbon which acts like a highly adsorbant sponge that is highly effective against organic chemicals. The types of activated carbon available today include granular, palletized, and powdered. Granular activated carbon is the one we usually see in aquarium while pellets and powdered are used in other applications suchs as air filtration.
How does it works?
When certain chemicals in your aquarium pass next to the carbon surface, activated carbon attracts negatively charged chemical particles with its own positive charge. Negatively charged particles gets trap in the porous structure of the activated carbon which inhibits them from re-dissolving back into the water. When the activated carbon is removed, the chemicals are removed with it.
What can be removed and what can’t?
It is important to note that there are certain substances that carbon will adsorb easily while other will not be adsorb in significant amount.
Excellent Absorption:
Amyl Acetate, Amyl Alcohol, Benzene, Bleach, Butyl Alcohol, Butyl Acetate, Calcium Hypochlorite, Organic Carbon, Chloral, Chloroform, Chlorine, Chlorobenzene, Chlorophenol, Cresol, Defoliants, Diesel Fuel, Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOC), Dyes (such as Methylene Blue), Ethyl Acetate, Ethyl Acrylate, Foaming, Gasoline, Glycols, Herbicides, Hydrogen Peroxide, Hypochlorous Acid, Insecticides, Iodine, Isopropyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Ketones, Methyl Bromide, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Naptha, Nitrobenzene, Nitroluene, Odors (general), Oil (dissolved), Organic Esters, Oxalic Acid, Oxygen, PCB’s, Pesticides, Phenol, Sodium Hypochlorite, Toluidine, Trichlorethylene, Turpentine, Xylene
Fair/Good Absorption:
Acetaldehde, Acetone, Alcohols, Antifreeze, Chloramine, Calcium Hypochlorite, Chlorophyll, Citric Acid, Ethyl Alcohol, Ethyl Amine, Ethyl Chloride, Etyl Ether, Lactic Acid, Mercaptans, Methyl Acetate, Methyl Alcohol, Methyl Chloride, Organic Acids, Organic Salts, Ozone, Potassium Permanganate, Propioc Acid, Propyl Acetate, Propyl Alcohol, Propyl Chloride, Radon, Solvents, Sulphonated Oils, Tannins, Tar Emulsion, Tartaric Acid, Xanthophyll
Poor or no absorption:
Ammonia, Calcium, Carbon Dioxide, Fluoride, Formaldehyde, Lime, Magnesium, Manganese, Microbes, Molybdenum, Nitrates, nitrites, Phosphates, Selenium, Sodium, Iron and other heavy metals
Note: Alkalinity and water hardness will not be affected by the use of activated carbon.
How much should I use, and for how long?
Because every aquarium is different and the quality of the activated carbon is different from a brand to an other, it is almost impossible to recommend a specific amount of activated carbon.
Some activated carbon products give recommendations while others give no indication at all. For ongoing maintenance, I use 1 cup of activated carbon per 50 gallons and change it monthly. When I use a high grade activated carbons such as Tri Base Pelletized Carbon, I use half a cup per 50 gallons and change it every 3 months. Independent research has shown that “more is better” when using activated carbon. Greater quantity of carbon will work faster and longer than a lesser amount.
For Activated Carbon to work effectively, you should filter the water mechanically before it reaches the carbon.
Activated Carbon de-adsorption
We are often told that exhausted activated carbon will leach adsorbed substance back into the aquarium and cause problems. To avoid this, we are told to replace old activated carbon monthly. This assumption is actually wrong. De-adsroption can only be done by switching from one pH extreme (very acidic or basic) to the other pH extreme. These extreme pH values are way outside the normal range of aquarium so don’t worry about de-adsorption.
If you leave activated carbon too long without changing it, it will no longer be effective as a adsorbant and will instead become part of the biological filtration.
Medication And Activated Carbon
Activated carbon effectively remove medications from the water. So whenever you use medication, first remove any carbon in your filtration system. Once you are done with the treatment, put some carbon back in your filter to remove the medication.
Activated Carbon And Trace Element
A big problem with Activated Carbon is that it also removes some of the good things such as trace elements. Activated carbon actually has a greater affinity for organics than trace metals. Actually, the uptake of substances like iron, manganese, molybdenum, cadmium and zinc is extremely limited and is insignificant if used only occasionally. Saltwater aquarists should also keep in mind that protein skimming will remove much more trace elements than activated carbon.
Phosphate In Activated Carbon
An other problem is that carbon carbons can leach phosphate into the aquarium water. The phosphate can be a naturally occurring part of the carbon or it can be from phosphoric acid which is used in the activation process. If you have problems with phosphate, the best thing to do is to switch for an other brand of carbon. One way to tell is to look on the product label. If the label talks about the carbon process of using oxygen, carbon dioxide or steam, then it is truly phosphate-free. If the activated carbon is simply marked “phosphate-free”, you can assume it was steam activated. If the label does not mention about the activation process and does not mention “phosphate-free”, ask the vendor or switch to an other brand.
Activated carbon is by far the biggest selling maintenance product in the aquarium industry and is one of the most effective absorbents currently used.
However, using activated carbon in fresh or saltwater aquarium is a controversial subject and opinions ranged from “never use it” to “can’t live without it”. Let’s have a look at this product:
What is Activated Carbon?
When carbon is treated by either chemical (with phosphoric acid or zinc) or termal (glasification or carbonization) reaction, all impurities are released which open up millions of tiny pores between the carbon atoms. This process gives the carbon a large surface area in contact with water. It can have anywhere from 300 to 2,000 square meters of surface area per gram. This forms the substance we call activated carbon which acts like a highly adsorbant sponge that is highly effective against organic chemicals. The types of activated carbon available today include granular, palletized, and powdered. Granular activated carbon is the one we usually see in aquarium while pellets and powdered are used in other applications suchs as air filtration.
How does it works?
When certain chemicals in your aquarium pass next to the carbon surface, activated carbon attracts negatively charged chemical particles with its own positive charge. Negatively charged particles gets trap in the porous structure of the activated carbon which inhibits them from re-dissolving back into the water. When the activated carbon is removed, the chemicals are removed with it.
What can be removed and what can’t?
It is important to note that there are certain substances that carbon will adsorb easily while other will not be adsorb in significant amount.
Excellent Absorption:
Amyl Acetate, Amyl Alcohol, Benzene, Bleach, Butyl Alcohol, Butyl Acetate, Calcium Hypochlorite, Organic Carbon, Chloral, Chloroform, Chlorine, Chlorobenzene, Chlorophenol, Cresol, Defoliants, Diesel Fuel, Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOC), Dyes (such as Methylene Blue), Ethyl Acetate, Ethyl Acrylate, Foaming, Gasoline, Glycols, Herbicides, Hydrogen Peroxide, Hypochlorous Acid, Insecticides, Iodine, Isopropyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Ketones, Methyl Bromide, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Naptha, Nitrobenzene, Nitroluene, Odors (general), Oil (dissolved), Organic Esters, Oxalic Acid, Oxygen, PCB’s, Pesticides, Phenol, Sodium Hypochlorite, Toluidine, Trichlorethylene, Turpentine, Xylene
Fair/Good Absorption:
Acetaldehde, Acetone, Alcohols, Antifreeze, Chloramine, Calcium Hypochlorite, Chlorophyll, Citric Acid, Ethyl Alcohol, Ethyl Amine, Ethyl Chloride, Etyl Ether, Lactic Acid, Mercaptans, Methyl Acetate, Methyl Alcohol, Methyl Chloride, Organic Acids, Organic Salts, Ozone, Potassium Permanganate, Propioc Acid, Propyl Acetate, Propyl Alcohol, Propyl Chloride, Radon, Solvents, Sulphonated Oils, Tannins, Tar Emulsion, Tartaric Acid, Xanthophyll
Poor or no absorption:
Ammonia, Calcium, Carbon Dioxide, Fluoride, Formaldehyde, Lime, Magnesium, Manganese, Microbes, Molybdenum, Nitrates, nitrites, Phosphates, Selenium, Sodium, Iron and other heavy metals
Note: Alkalinity and water hardness will not be affected by the use of activated carbon.
How much should I use, and for how long?
Because every aquarium is different and the quality of the activated carbon is different from a brand to an other, it is almost impossible to recommend a specific amount of activated carbon.
Some activated carbon products give recommendations while others give no indication at all. For ongoing maintenance, I use 1 cup of activated carbon per 50 gallons and change it monthly. When I use a high grade activated carbons such as Tri Base Pelletized Carbon, I use half a cup per 50 gallons and change it every 3 months. Independent research has shown that “more is better” when using activated carbon. Greater quantity of carbon will work faster and longer than a lesser amount.
For Activated Carbon to work effectively, you should filter the water mechanically before it reaches the carbon.
Activated Carbon de-adsorption
We are often told that exhausted activated carbon will leach adsorbed substance back into the aquarium and cause problems. To avoid this, we are told to replace old activated carbon monthly. This assumption is actually wrong. De-adsroption can only be done by switching from one pH extreme (very acidic or basic) to the other pH extreme. These extreme pH values are way outside the normal range of aquarium so don’t worry about de-adsorption.
If you leave activated carbon too long without changing it, it will no longer be effective as a adsorbant and will instead become part of the biological filtration.
Medication And Activated Carbon
Activated carbon effectively remove medications from the water. So whenever you use medication, first remove any carbon in your filtration system. Once you are done with the treatment, put some carbon back in your filter to remove the medication.
Activated Carbon And Trace Element
A big problem with Activated Carbon is that it also removes some of the good things such as trace elements. Activated carbon actually has a greater affinity for organics than trace metals. Actually, the uptake of substances like iron, manganese, molybdenum, cadmium and zinc is extremely limited and is insignificant if used only occasionally. Saltwater aquarists should also keep in mind that protein skimming will remove much more trace elements than activated carbon.
Phosphate In Activated Carbon
An other problem is that carbon carbons can leach phosphate into the aquarium water. The phosphate can be a naturally occurring part of the carbon or it can be from phosphoric acid which is used in the activation process. If you have problems with phosphate, the best thing to do is to switch for an other brand of carbon. One way to tell is to look on the product label. If the label talks about the carbon process of using oxygen, carbon dioxide or steam, then it is truly phosphate-free. If the activated carbon is simply marked “phosphate-free”, you can assume it was steam activated. If the label does not mention about the activation process and does not mention “phosphate-free”, ask the vendor or switch to an other brand.
swannyson7
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I've tried the ROX and Lignite from BRS and haven't noticed a big difference between the two for the price. The ROX is supposed to be low dust, but as long as the Lignite is rinsed well, it works just fine.
CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
I use BRS ROX 0.8 - Every comparison I've seen places it among the top performers.
Use carbon only for your first few months, like during and after your cycle. After that, only use carbon if the water is a little cloudy, or if you OD additives/trace elements to help stabalize params.
Steven Pro
Active Member
I like Two Little Fishies carbon. Have not used Bulk Reef Supply, though.
Just a heads up brs gave my tangs HLE I took it off line switched back to E.S.V brand carbon and the problem has been correcting itself so if you have tangs I wouldn't use that type of carbon I use it on just a coral system with no problems though!
I wouldn't be so quick to blame a particular brand for HLLE problems. The research indicates that the dust is more of the culprit than a brand. Here's the article on the research. Note in the research that the most dramatic appearance of HLLE was in the tank that was treated with unwashed lignite carbon.
In our tanks, we tend to buy higher quality carbon than public aquariums can afford and wash it thoroughly (or we should). Carbon is most effective when used in a reactor. It should not be allowed to tumble in a reactor or bag because that generates carbon dust. The research is a huge step forward in our understanding of the role carbon plays in HLLE, but the results do not necessarily apply directly to what happens in our aquariums. There are far too many variables involved in hobbyist aquariums.
Gary
In our tanks, we tend to buy higher quality carbon than public aquariums can afford and wash it thoroughly (or we should). Carbon is most effective when used in a reactor. It should not be allowed to tumble in a reactor or bag because that generates carbon dust. The research is a huge step forward in our understanding of the role carbon plays in HLLE, but the results do not necessarily apply directly to what happens in our aquariums. There are far too many variables involved in hobbyist aquariums.
Gary
SaraB
2500 Club Member
+1 to Gary's comments. I saw the thread reponse notice in my email earlier today and intended on responding once I was done with work ... and Gary beat me to it!
You should also not generalize "BRS carbon" as they sell 3 different grades of carbon on their site and one has a particle size option as well. Bulk packaged carbon for aquariums - English
You should also not generalize "BRS carbon" as they sell 3 different grades of carbon on their site and one has a particle size option as well. Bulk packaged carbon for aquariums - English
toyencounters
Active Member
I use Dick Boyd's Chemipure anyone else use this carbon?
Yes in note to that I used the brs lignite fine paticle wasn't bashing on brs to say I was just pointing out what I found the cause to be, I'll also note I know not to tumble carbon for the reason this will cause it to slowly disintegrate and end up in the water column. I use a reactor and stuff it full so it is to not tumble always done it this way for better than six years now, I didn't and haven't ever had this problem with carbon until I used this brand once again not bashing it works very well, I always soak my carbon in Rodi water then rinse very well before placing in the reactor but it just never seemed I could get it clean and I'd know this because for the first 24-48hours I'd run the effluent line into the filter sock (always have done this as well) and even after all the soaking and rinsing my filter socks would always be black the next 3 days I'd say within 3 weeks I noticed the problem starting to occur, so I went over everything of what I was doing/ feeding ruled out nutrition problem then remembered an article about carbon dust causing this problem so I switched back to brand that I've always used and within a week it started to clear up and now it is almost back to normal! Just simply pointing out my experiences with a certain brand type of carbon that I had used was all but like I said it works very well and I still use it on my coral prop tank crystal clear water!
Also like to mention that I'm sorry for not being mor specific to which of the carbons I used it was the brs lignite small particle mentioned that In another thread about carbon just a mix up!
Thanks for the clarification Reef Up on which product and how you prepare and run your carbon. Sounds like you are doing everything right
No problem just wanted to spread my experience is all I love it for my coral prop system but not for my tank with tangs haha
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