If this is the case ive made anemone baskets out of dryer vent covers before. Keeps the anemone in the spot you want while being able to feed it and other tank inhabitants can't get in the cage to eat the food. U may have to feed it food until its zoanthel population grows back.
white..the rose tip is green..it only shrinks during the darker hours. the white seems to prefer shade. they both appear healthy
Without seeing a pic i would agree that its a bleached bubble tip. This happens a lot during transportation. They get stresses and expel their zoanthele
It's a bleached BTA, a LFS near me has a tank full of BTA from extremely bleach to partial bleach in their clownfish tank and it look exactly the one in picture, some big and at least 8 inches in diameter when open, it does look healthy but just bleached badly.this is not it, but it looks exactly the same. Same color shape... Ill post in the AM. Maybe its not a bubble? I dont think its ill
A local reefer used to have extreme bleach Sebae Anemone, and took him close to a year to get it back to its original color.
I had a green BTA that was also bleached. It was a pale translucent yellow. I made a point of feeding it mysis and dosed Phycopure Zooxanthellae. My local LFS had mentioned they found it helpful for bleached corals. I am not sure if the dosing helped, but the BTA is now dark green.Here is what I would do if I had a BTA that bleached(which I've had before due to...experimenting with lighting/spectrum) assuming water quality is on point, and life support system/lights are in order + some totally anecdotal comments.
1. Target Feed small mysis shrimp
-twice a week - needs time to consume, digest, and poop. Remember: one hole for all functions
-no large foods. Without their zoo partners helping true food consumption is their primary way to gain energy. Large food requires more energy to attempt to consume (that mouth has to open wider), and theres no guarantee a larger food item wont just get spit out.
2. Do a lighting acclimation cycle over a week (or two)
-If you don't know how to do one, hit the lighting section here and guarantee you'll find a guide.
3. Seek consistency - avoid tinkering w/ any doser settings, or trying any new snake oils or regimens, or tank temps. Good time to double check your heater and/or chiller + take a peak at that skimmer too (just a good idea IMO if you have a critter not doing well. I'm not suggesting anything is kaput in your gear, nor that any gear needs cleaning/maint but no one wants to have a heater fail when they're trying to heal a critter!).
-I may get blasted for suggesting it, but I would even consider delaying water changes for a week (or month...or two...), UNLESS you've got something that requires it (e.g. WC is your nitrate export method, or tank has sps/lps corals and WC is your alk/ca replacement method). You know your tank better than me - exercise your best judgement with that
+1 to taking a while to regain its color
Just some totally anecdotal advise bud(just to reiterate). I'm no nem expert, but just a guy that's had BTAs for years. Hope it works out for you and your nem. GL and happy reefin'.
