Whiter light possible without altering spectrum?

[Tmm87]

I posted a thread a few weeks ago to get some advice on changing up my lighting so my anemones would improve. That's been achieved, they're both doing wonderful. My concern now is that before my tank was brighter, now that I've altered the schedule and intensities on the 4 channels (I'm running a Maxspect Razor X) it's very very blue.

Is there a way to increase the light so that colors look more natural, the corals still pop and everything stays happy in regards to spectrum? I'm not opposed to adding another smaller fixture if needed.

 

[Reeferdood]

If the color changes, the spectrum will change too. If you want to add more white you will be adding red and green as well.
I am not familiar with that fixture, are there white channels too?
A little white, red's and greens aren't a bad thing, spectral tweaking is. With Led fixtures, all of us tend to mess with the colors when we are dialing them in but it really upsets the livestock when we do.
So, with that being said I would pick what you want and leave it for a while to let the critters adjust.

 

[jda]

You can turn everything up at the same time... more white/red/green but also more blue. ...this is kinda what 20K Halides do where they have lots of red/yellow/green, but also huge blue spikes.

Which 'nems do you have? If BTAs, LTAs and stuff, then they are likely fine. If mag or gig, then they might appreciate some more daylight.

 

[Tmm87]

You can turn everything up at the same time... more white/red/green but also more blue. ...this is kinda what 20K Halides do where they have lots of red/yellow/green, but also huge blue spikes.

Which 'nems do you have? If BTAs, LTAs and stuff, then they are likely fine. If mag or gig, then they might appreciate some more daylight.

Both are BTAs. Everything in my tank seems happy now. The question was more for my viewing pleasure. I like the growth and extension that I'm seeing so if altering the light is going to mess with that again then I'll just leave it alone. It seems really dialed in at the moment.

 

[jda]

Go with your eyes and your gut. If the BTAs are happy, then do not touch anything. BTAs are not all that demanding as long as you are not cutting them in half all of the time.

Most tanks would be better if people did not have the ability to change their LEDs once they got them right. You can do more harm than good sometimes.

 

[Reeferdood]

Go with your eyes and your gut. If the BTAs are happy, then do not touch anything. BTAs are not all that demanding as long as you are not cutting them in half all of the time.

Most tanks would be better if people did not have the ability to change their LEDs once they got them right. You can do more harm than good sometimes.

 

[Reeferdood]

+1

 

[oreo54]

I posted a thread a few weeks ago to get some advice on changing up my lighting so my anemones would improve. That's been achieved, they're both doing wonderful. My concern now is that before my tank was brighter, now that I've altered the schedule and intensities on the 4 channels (I'm running a Maxspect Razor X) it's very very blue.

Is there a way to increase the light so that colors look more natural, the corals still pop and everything stays happy in regards to spectrum? I'm not opposed to adding another smaller fixture if needed.

this it?
current settings?

Colors
Channel A: Deep Blue + Cool White

Channel B: Deep Blue + Light Blue

Channel C: Violet + Deep Blue

Channel D: Cyan + Deep Red + Warm White

 

[Tmm87]

this it?
current settings?

45/100/80/20

I had Channel 1 much higher to begin with. The coral didn't seem to care but the BTAs were not impressed. Since the change everything in the tank looks better.

 

[mcarroll]

Anemones are also phosphate hogs....any chance your nutrient levels are very low?

 

[Tmm87]

Anemones are also phosphate hogs....any chance your nutrient levels are very low?

Phosphate reads low on the API kit I have. By low I mean nearly undetectable. I'd like to pick up a different tester for it but other expenses come first for now.

I enjoy watching my fish eat so I tend to feed heavy so I'm sure there's plenty of nutrients.

Ammonia is 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrates typically sit in the 10-20 range. I know there's extra in the system because I've got an algae explosion in my sump. The red dragon macro is growing like crazy and I've got hair algae in the sump too.

The only change to the system was the spectrum adjustment. Both nems were eating still and firmly planted, they just didn't look like they should. After the change they look much better.

The main reason for my question was just to see if I could brighten up the tank a bit for my viewing pleasure without ticking them off again.

 

[mcarroll]

Phosphate reads low on the API kit I have. By low I mean nearly undetectable.

Bingo.

The only change to the system was the spectrum adjustment.

Which added light.

Added light and plentiful nitrates tends to supercharge photosynthesis...but photosynthesis requires a supply of dissolved phosphate for a variety of reasons, not least of which is repair from photo-damage.

When you change spectrum, a coral may have to build a whole new defense system for it....time- and resource-intensive for the coral. And if a key ingredient (P) is missing or deficient....

So, problem solved....e

Either eliminate some of the demand on dissolved PO4 (those macro) or increase the supply (my recommendation) with a phosphate fertilizer. (Seachem, Brightwell, et al...)

When calculating your dose, plan at least a +0.03 ppm increase. 0.10 ppm would be a fine target as well and would provide more reserve.

Don't let NO3 run out in the process as there could be a surge in demand.

(Make lighting changes smaller and keep nutrients available and you shouldn't have a problem making one last adjustment to get the look you want.)

 

[Tmm87]

Bingo.



Which added light.

Added light and plentiful nitrates tends to supercharge photosynthesis...but photosynthesis requires a supply of dissolved phosphate for a variety of reasons, not least of which is repair from photo-damage.

When you change spectrum, a coral may have to build a whole new defense system for it....time- and resource-intensive for the coral. And if a key ingredient (P) is missing or deficient....

So, problem solved....e

Either eliminate some of the demand on dissolved PO4 (those macro) or increase the supply (my recommendation) with a phosphate fertilizer. (Seachem, Brightwell, et al...)

When calculating your dose, plan at least a +0.03 ppm increase. 0.10 ppm would be a fine target as well and would provide more reserve.

Don't let NO3 run out in the process as there could be a surge in demand.

(Make lighting changes smaller and keep nutrients available and you shouldn't have a problem making one last adjustment to get the look you want.)

These should be in order. All the same Nem. First was when it initially went in the tank, second is from when it was thoroughly unimpressed with what was going on and third is from about a week or two ago after the spectrum adjustment.

The other BTA is more expanded and brighter. It didn't have as large of a change.

View attachment 20180612_200448.jpg

 

[oreo54]

Channel A and D run at 100% is roughly 18000K white..
Ch D alone is red rich 4000-ish K w/ decent CRI

Though none of this matters much..

any addition of B and C just drives "blue"


Point is yes, need to change spectrum to get "whiter"
the balance between your goals and the tanks may be at odds and you need to decide which direction to go..