Why do some zoas hate me??

[FastandCurious]

Hey guys!

I have been trying to grow out my zoa garden and its coming along pretty good so far for just starting it less than a year ago. But I'm having a problem with always 1 or 2 random zoas that will start billowing sort of. They almost look like the are melting a little bit. And right next to it is a zoa head that is super happy. Is it the lighting that is causing this? My blues and UV are at about 60% and my coolwhite at 10% and I have an AI prime 16 for a 75gal cube. My water parameters are all in good range just checked a cpl days ago when I did last WC. It's starting to happen to other ones at different heights so either on the sand bed or frag rack it's still effecting them. Does anyone know what this is and what is causing it. Bc the majority of my zoas and corals are all happy so hmmm ?? Any help is appreciated!

 

[vetteguy53081]

infrequent feeding and ultra low nutrient conditions can lead to entire colony meltdowns. The "cheesing out" syndrome can be the result of limited nutrients (Phosphates, Nitrates). Zoanthids need fish poop, dissolved food matter and the resulting nutrients to thrive.
generally, zoanthids can thrive in the same conditions that SPS corals do. Good dissolved organics levels, high light, good nutrient export, low nutrient byproducts like Nitrates and Phosphates. I am not claiming that Zoanthids need the pristine conditions that SPS corals require but they do thrive in similar conditions. However, I have learned from experience that Phosphate levels below .02 can be detrimental to the health of the polyps. Always remember that Nitrogen and Phosphorus are the building blocks for coral life, so zero Nitrate reading or zero Phosphate reading are not a good thing for your aquarium life.
Zoanthids do not require the level of, or the amount of trace elements that SPS corals do but they certainly benefit from consistent water quality/chemistry. Qualities that should be monitored regularly in a reef aquarium are -- Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, Iodine, temperature, Phosphates, Nitrates, and pH. I am not indicating that they require all of the aforementioned items specifically, only that consistent levels keep Zoanthids happy and healthy. My chemistry is consistently maintained in this range:

dKH: 8.0 - 9.0
Calcium: 430 - 440
Magnesium: 1250 - 1300
Iodine: Maintained via regular water changes (be careful if you are dosing without testing!)
Temperature: 77 - 79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.2
Phosphates: .02 - .03
Nitrates < 5

Adding iodide weekly also benefits them

 

[Paul B]

I don't think they hate you, they just don't know you.
Zoa's like many things in this hobby grow and ebb in cycles that no one understands but most people don't keep a tank long enough to see this.

I used to have them all over the place and now they look much worse than yours. (Maybe they hate me too)

In a few years they will come back and again cover everything
.
Why?

No one knows but the Zoa's probably do.

 

[Reef and Dive]

Reasons I have found over time that seem to have melted some colonies:

1 - Mg too high (I keep mine around 1200)
2 - The combination of too low nutrients and too scarce bacterial population
3 - Low iodine
4 - UV too intense (can be acclimated)
5 - Sponges covering the colony
6 - Pests (nudis, spiders etc)

 

[Stoney]

Don't mean to be a pessimist, but there's a million threads like this, and most are inconclusive. Best way I've found to keep zoas alive is to frag em while you can and spread them, preferably to a second tank.

 

[FastandCurious]

infrequent feeding and ultra low nutrient conditions can lead to entire colony meltdowns. The "cheesing out" syndrome can be the result of limited nutrients (Phosphates, Nitrates). Zoanthids need fish poop, dissolved food matter and the resulting nutrients to thrive.
generally, zoanthids can thrive in the same conditions that SPS corals do. Good dissolved organics levels, high light, good nutrient export, low nutrient byproducts like Nitrates and Phosphates. I am not claiming that Zoanthids need the pristine conditions that SPS corals require but they do thrive in similar conditions. However, I have learned from experience that Phosphate levels below .02 can be detrimental to the health of the polyps. Always remember that Nitrogen and Phosphorus are the building blocks for coral life, so zero Nitrate reading or zero Phosphate reading are not a good thing for your aquarium life.
Zoanthids do not require the level of, or the amount of trace elements that SPS corals do but they certainly benefit from consistent water quality/chemistry. Qualities that should be monitored regularly in a reef aquarium are -- Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, Iodine, temperature, Phosphates, Nitrates, and pH. I am not indicating that they require all of the aforementioned items specifically, only that consistent levels keep Zoanthids happy and healthy. My chemistry is consistently maintained in this range:

dKH: 8.0 - 9.0
Calcium: 430 - 440
Magnesium: 1250 - 1300
Iodine: Maintained via regular water changes (be careful if you are dosing without testing!)
Temperature: 77 - 79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.2
Phosphates: .02 - .03
Nitrates < 5

Adding iodide weekly also benefits them

Ok that is very good to know eps about the Nitrates. Mine usually read less than 5 or 0 but I may need to buy a more accurate test. It's just so strange how all will be happy and then a random 1 or 2 will just check out lol. Also I will look into iodine supplements. Thank you

 

[FastandCurious]

Reasons I have found over time that seem to have melted some colonies:

1 - Mg too high (I keep mine around 1200)
2 - The combination of too low nutrients and too scarce bacterial population
3 - Low iodine
4 - UV too intense (can be acclimated)
5 - Sponges covering the colony
6 - Pests (nudis, spiders etc)

I did a cpl months slowly raise my mag bc I was getting a few newer corals that liked higher mag like a torch but with reg WC have been able to keep it at about 1400. But I used to think zoas are resilient haha but I guess not. Also I have had aptasia wipe out a whole little colony until I got my peppermint shrimp and he laid the smack down on those little jerks lol. So that's another reason for you list of pests. Thank you!

 

[FastandCurious]

I don't think they hate you, they just don't know you.
Zoa's like many things in this hobby grow and ebb in cycles that no one understands but most people don't keep a tank long enough to see this.

I used to have them all over the place and now they look much worse than yours. (Maybe they hate me too)

In a few years they will come back and again cover everything
.
Why?

No one knows but the Zoa's probably do.

Well I'm gonna need them to figure it out lol. Out of all my corals my zoas are the most resilient or so I thought. But maybe not. And they better know me, I'm the one feeding them every single day haha ;Shifty

 

[ZoWhat]

Here's what I've put together in my 10yrs of keeping zoas

A closed up zoa is a p.o.'ed zoa which is either improper flow or lighting or water quality

LIGHTING

Zoas thrive in all different depths in the wild.

Your combo of blues and whites lights simulate the depth. Trick is to find at what depth using lighting will make the various species of zoas happy..

The more blue.... the deeper the water is being simulating.

More white.... shallower.

I would say a tank where it's blue dominate is simulating depths of 20 to 60ft

If the tank is more white, deoths are more simulating 3 to 15ft

Problem is you may have a mix of shallow water zoas vs deep water. Some love bathing in whiter light. Others prefer blue only. Tinkering with them takes time and experimentation

Zoas with disc that are shrinking usually means it's getting too much light, actually too much PAR.... usually over a 100 PAR. Shrinking disc means, move dem suckers to lower light, bottom of tank or in the shade of a rock. Goal for zoas is to not max their PAR past 100 if you can help it.

Zoas with stretching stems means they are not getting enough light/PAR. they need to be moved higher in the tank closer to the source light.

FLOW

Most every zoa (IME) thrives more with very little flow. Med to high flow can irrate them making them melt away quick.

I have the most success with flow where the zoas barely move with flow going over them. Zoas should be pretty still in your tank. Trick is to move water and nutrients around but not to where zoas are "jiggling" about bc of the flow.

Some zoas is put in too much flow just get irritated and give up and die

PEST / WATER QUALITY

Close up zoas for extended periods of time means 1) there's a pest bothering it, or 2) the water quality is not to their liking.

Zoas that are closed up have taken in a gulp of SW and pretty much like "holding their breath" holding onto the SW inside them until they feel it's okay to open back up.

Closed up zoas are like us humans who get sick and crawl into bed in the fetal position until we feel better. Zoas will remain closed up until the 1) pests are eliminated or 2) the water quality improves. If 1 or 2 doesn't happen fir them they slowly die off closed up.

Decent water quality is a water column with proper major/minor elements while controlling Phosphates. Nitrates are not a big deal to zoas.

The goal is not to strive for 0 Phosphates or Nitrates. But 0.1 to 0.3ppm phosphate -and- nitrates at 5 to 25ppm. Those are good #s to be at.

WRAP UP

Everyone says zoas are easy but I say no theyre not....bc you really have to tinker with them on providing proper lighting, flow, water quality. If any of those are not to their liking they'll show you fairly quickly that "momma's not happy"

Tinker with them until you find the right place for them in the tank. Once they show you they are happy....don't move them and provide them consistency

Hth

 

[Just John]

A flow question for you. I have 30 or so zoas and all of them are happy and growing. For various reasons, I need more flow in parts of the tank, but that means some established zoas get a lot more flow that I would think they could deal with. A couple are getting blasted. But they are still open. Do you think they will be OK? I just put in the pump today, so I would like to sort it out now instead of waiting to see what happens.

 

[Rmckoy]

Weird coincidence but I have a hard time keeping zoas ….
Palys are good but zoas never make it longer than 1 year