Why is my Phosphate zero, Nitrite 1, and Hammers bleaching at what appears to be lessening of the ugly stage that started about 3 weeks ago?

BWV

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I began the ugly stage about 3 weeks ago, with brownish hairy algae and diatoms. (looked like em under the scope) It got pretty ugly...
The hair seemed to die down a lot, and diatoms mostly gone, I got excited that I had navigated that well.. but then cyano began and there's lots now.
(I have had Dinoflagellates Since July 14th.. they died down mid November.. I wont say gone yet.. but I think so)

I noticed my 2 of my three hammers looking less colorful this week (much.. I'd say "bleaching"), and the other hammer and torch seem to extend a little less (not clamped.. but not all out). All my coral has looked great from placing each in the tank 'til last week. Most still seem ok 'cept the hammers.

I tested (Tank chemistry was stable for a while.. so I got a little lazy.. weekly instead of daily, then bi weekly) and I see zero Phosphates and some increase in Nitrite now.(0.1 now) My thinking is the hair algae consumed the Phosphate. No idea why the nitrite increase.

--- My main concern is saving my Hammers... what is my next best step? ---

I began feeding more, in the hopes to get measurable Phosphate (pellet food).. but I just drove the Nitrates and Nitrites up instead.

I do 10% water changes every week, and usually a 20% once a month when I do the deep clean (filter sponge, gravel vac, etc..)
Tank was new July 5th, it's a Fluval Evo 13.5 gallon.
Data below (I have more data points, trying to be "breif")
1643002606910.png

Notes:
New light on Nov 9th - 3 hours at 85% blues, 70% white, 10% red with 2 hour ramp up, 2hr ramp down. (Aquaticlife Reef LED)
The tank was Fallow from Sept 20 to Dec 4 (ick.. maybe velvet, dunno.. gone now though..)
I dose 1ML of fuel a week, Reef Roids once a week (1/16th tsp, direct fed) since Nov 11th
I added Copepods and Phyto(10ml) Dec 11th
I add 1/2 dropper of Rhodo Feast once a week since Dec 11th and now Alternate the Reef Roids and Coral Feast since then as well (still only once a week)

Life in the tank...
3 Hammers(2X1 head and 5 head), a Torch(1 head), 2 leptoseris frags, 2 Cyphostrea, a 6 head Duncan, a Toadstool, some GSP, a Ricordia florida, 2 heads of Goniastrea, 3 hermits, an emerald mithrax, 7 snails (3 Astrea, 2 Nas, 1 Marg, 1 Cerith, 2 Nerite), and a Goniopora
All appear well except the now pale hammer, and the torch not extending quite as much.

Again... I just want to keep my Hammers and other coral healthy (and the fish) .. I'm not a vain tank person, and am ok with the ugly stage (felt like an accomplishment to get to it). I also don't "chase numbers", but I am aware, and do have goals once the tank is established (the commonly accepted/published "good" levels)

Can anyone point out a next step, or things to add, stop, or continue?
Thanks is advance.
 

YOYOYOReefer

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If you have hair alge you have phosphates your test kit is not going to be accurate.
Its either coming in with your water changes, top off, or its already sunk in your sand or rocks.
Figure our what the algaes food source.

Never chose to add extra food or phosphates to a tank with cyano and hair algae problems.
Limit light/ go dark are good things to do as well.

AlK needs to be stable, dont worry bout a number , worry bout keeping it stable
 
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If you have hair alge you have phosphates your test kit is not going to be accurate.
Its either coming in with your water changes, top off, or its already sunk in your sand or rocks.
Figure our what the algaes food source.

Never chose to add extra food or phosphates to a tank with cyano and hair algae problems.
Limit light/ go dark are good things to do as well.

AlK needs to be stable, dont worry bout a number , worry bout keeping it stable
Thanks.
Water is 0 TDS RODI
Rock is "life rock" (Not Live...)
sand is Caribsea Hawaiian Arag-alive black.

I fed thank tank a little while the fish were out, to keep the crabs, snails, coral and bacteria fed, and didn't have any "ugly"... And the Dinos died off as time went by. I don't mean to sound like I'm overdoing it...just a little more than normal. Will reduce for sure.

I'm wonder what's triggering the bleaching hammers? ... They have been perfectly happy til the ugly started to subside. In my head it's the zero phosphate I see in the salifert test I use, as the algae lessened as well.
 

BostonReefer300

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First of all, nice summary and thanks for including a lot of helpful detail. We all wish more people did that. Sorry to hear about your troubles with your hammers. I don't think you said, how long have those hammers been in the tank? How many inches are their tops from the surface? Also, all the other corals (except the torch) are looking well (growth tips, good coloration, polyp extension, etc.)?
Based on everything you wrote, my first guess would be that your lighting is too intense, but there could be many other causes. Do you have a PAR meter or the ability to borrow one?
On a side note, you don't need to measure nitrite anymore once your tank is cycled and I wouldn't bother with ammonia either unless something died or your system crashed.
Lastly, regarding PO4 testing, in my experience the only reliable, accurate tests are the Hanna ultra low phosphorus tester (HI736) or the ultra low phosphate one (HI774), with my preference being the phosphorus one---but that's a story/debate for another time. Salifert makes great tests for most everything, but phosphate is tough because of the very low levels.
 

Aqua Man

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I'm wonder what's triggering the bleaching hammers? ... They have been perfectly happy til the ugly started to subside. In my head it's the zero phosphate I see in the salifert test I use, as the algae lessened as well.
How’s the flow in the tank? Can post a pic of the Hammer?
 
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How’s the flow in the tank? Can post a pic of the Hammer?
Sure! I did a major tank clean yesterday...got rid of a lot of ugly. When I return from my trip this week I'm sure it will be back and I will update. These is right now.
I did forget to mention that my Mr Freeze leptoseris is what got my attention first and they did bleach a bunch... the cyphostrea and goniastrea are not showing distress. The goniopora are too new to tell..but extend nicely. Duncan is fine too.
PXL_20220124_153622348~2.jpg
PXL_20220124_153633663~2.jpg
PXL_20220124_153640754~2.jpg
PXL_20220124_153645786~2.jpg
PXL_20220124_153814033~2.jpg
PXL_20220124_153717274~2.jpg
 
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First of all, nice summary and thanks for including a lot of helpful detail. We all wish more people did that. Sorry to hear about your troubles with your hammers. I don't think you said, how long have those hammers been in the tank? How many inches are their tops from the surface? Also, all the other corals (except the torch) are looking well (growth tips, good coloration, polyp extension, etc.)?
Based on everything you wrote, my first guess would be that your lighting is too intense, but there could be many other causes. Do you have a PAR meter or the ability to borrow one?
On a side note, you don't need to measure nitrite anymore once your tank is cycled and I wouldn't bother with ammonia either unless something died or your system crashed.
Lastly, regarding PO4 testing, in my experience the only reliable, accurate tests are the Hanna ultra low phosphorus tester (HI736) or the ultra low phosphate one (HI774), with my preference being the phosphorus one---but that's a story/debate for another time. Salifert makes great tests for most everything, but phosphate is tough because of the very low levels.
Thanks for taking the time to share all of that!!
No par meter, and pretty far from civilization to borrow one..
Top of the big one is about 6-8" from the light.
Critters in this order... Big hammer has been in since 9/7/21 adapted super quick and has been beautiful since.
Screenshot_20220124-105411.png
 

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You are running way to much white light and 0 phosphate is not good either. Your other parameters are not bad currently but a few areas were low in the past
 
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You are running way to much white light and 0 phosphate is not good either. Your other parameters are not bad currently but a few areas were low in the past

Looking at these picture imo you have to much light for such low nutrient levels

I dropped the white by 10% and the blue and deeper blue by 5 each.
Without a PAR reference it's tough to guess...
I'll drop the white more in a week.
Small bites :)
 

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Coral stress, lack of nutrients, disease, etc...can sometimes take weeks and weeks before they obvious external signs show. However, internally they are slowing dying off. Stabil good parameters are key along with proper flow and lighting.
 
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Just thought I'd add...the pics I posted of today, I did turn on (and way up) the white LEDs... This pixel can't ever white balance the blue lights.

The YouTube vid is more representative of day to day and it's at those levels for maybe 2 hours with long ramps
 

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