Why is my tank getting hot?

Rick's Reviews

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Buy 5 X of these, you could even stick to your lights, powerhead, in your sumps and next to your heater, I would definitely choose these over some app on my phone :) :)
 

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Areseebee

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The app is a PAR meter (which I also don't exactly trust fwiw). I calibrated my temperature probe with a meat thermometer that was calibrated at 0c in a bucket of ice.
 

Rick's Reviews

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The app is a PAR meter (which I also don't exactly trust fwiw). I calibrated my temperature probe with a meat thermometer that was calibrated at 0c in a bucket of ice.
Then sack it off and revert to old skool tried and tested methods, a simple thermometer that costs £2 with minimal effort, rent a proper/ high end light spectrum 'par meter' for £25 with £200 deposit, your initial and constant post was originally about temperature 'hence the title'

A 10g aquarium will get hot in so many ways No1 being it's so small, you may have it on your desk next to a hot radiator, lights, wavemakers, plugs, computer underneath, so many variables, an app on your phone won't pin point these.
£10 for 5 X thermometer, stick these anywhere to source the heat.

I would not recommend using a meat probe/ food in your aquarium due to cross contamination, also meat probes are designed for uses for 'unfrozen' meat, generally room temperature.
Also 0 degree's is not a great calibration point... especially a bucket of ice unless you have another let's say 'device' to compare it with like a thermometer for £2

Good luck in your endeavours ;) :)
 
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Areseebee

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Then sack it off and revert to old skool tried and tested methods, a simple thermometer that costs £2 with minimal effort, rent a proper/ high end light spectrum 'par meter' for £25 with £200 deposit, your initial and constant post was originally about temperature 'hence the title'

How do you verify the calibration of a "simple thermometer". I own 5 devices that read temperature including 2 "simple thermometers", Hannah salinity tester, the meat thermometer and the apex probe. Between them I'm sure the meat thermometer is most accurate (the hannah meter reads closest to it fwiw) and it's the only one that is actually actively calibrated.

I started talking about PAR because I wanted to turn the lights down thus less heat. I can rent a light meter, but why when the app has a documented history of being within the margin of error of high quality apogee meters (https://growlightmeter.com/underwater-par-measurements-for-reef-aquariums/).

A 10g aquarium will get hot in so many ways No1 being it's so small, you may have it on your desk next to a hot radiator, lights, wavemakers, plugs, computer underneath, so many variables, an app on your phone won't pin point these.
£10 for 5 X thermometer, stick these anywhere to source the heat.

Sorry I think you are misunderstanding. The app was just to measure PAR to determine if I could turn down my lights which you will agree is a source of heat. The knowledge that I could turn them down, supported by a measurement of their output, allows me to reduce heat transfered to the tank. So yes a phone app will accomplish exactly this, and a thermometer will... not.
 

Rick's Reviews

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How do you verify the calibration of a "simple thermometer". I own 5 devices that read temperature including 2 "simple thermometers", Hannah salinity tester, the meat thermometer and the apex probe. Between them I'm sure the meat thermometer is most accurate (the hannah meter reads closest to it fwiw) and it's the only one that is actually actively calibrated.

I started talking about PAR because I wanted to turn the lights down thus less heat. I can rent a light meter, but why when the app has a documented history of being within the margin of error of high quality apogee meters (https://growlightmeter.com/underwater-par-measurements-for-reef-aquariums/).



Sorry I think you are misunderstanding. The app was just to measure PAR to determine if I could turn down my lights which you will agree is a source of heat. The knowledge that I could turn them down, supported by a measurement of their output, allows me to reduce heat transfered to the tank. So yes a phone app will accomplish exactly this, and a thermometer will... not.
I guess you have to go with your understanding of how these 'work'
Its your aquarium and my suggestion was only another alternative to what your currently using.
I wish you the best success
 

Rick's Reviews

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I guess you have to go with your understanding of how these 'work'
Its your aquarium and my suggestion was only another alternative to what your currently using.
I wish you the best success
Just for info ' none of the instruments you provided is for par meter readings'

I think your getting confused

Good luck
 

Rick's Reviews

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Good luck my man
 

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Areseebee

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Just for info ' none of the instruments you provided is for par meter readings'
LIterally the post you responded to was about using a PAR meter to tune down my lights while keeping PAR in a good range. I think you are just caught up in arguing and trying to prove I don't understand but you are not reading through the thread in good faith. The relationship between light and heat is not exactly up to debate, if you can turn down your lights you can save yourself excess heat transferred to the tank. Predictably, turning down the lights 25% has fixed the heat problem I was having; they didn't need to be as high as they were to get enough PAR. In the end, it was the most important adjustment. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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I started a little 10G nano and over the last 3 days I've had really weird heat issues. I have my heater set between 78.5 and 79.5. My lights (a standard 95w) is set to turn off at 81. Over the last three days my temperature has shot up to 81 starting at 1pm my time. I live in the north east and my house isn't getting hotter than mid 70s. My heater isn't coming on (blue line in the apex plot), even when my lights turn off the temp seems to continue to rise (lights are purple line). The other equipment in the tank is a small return pump (forget which, it was an old one) and a newer koralia kps powerhead (or whatever the small one is called).

Screenshot_20231004-202213.png
Are you running the 95 watt light at full power?

Edit did not see this was an old post
 
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Areseebee

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Definitely. Overall I found the koralia is using roughly 8 watts and the ac return pump is at 12. These are going to hard to improve on I think. I tried ordering a cheap dc pump for the return hoping to save 4ish watts but it didn't fit well in the return.i figured these gains would be modest enough that they aren't worth reworking the plumbing over.
 

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