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Then sack it off and revert to old skool tried and tested methods, a simple thermometer that costs £2 with minimal effort, rent a proper/ high end light spectrum 'par meter' for £25 with £200 deposit, your initial and constant post was originally about temperature 'hence the title'The app is a PAR meter (which I also don't exactly trust fwiw). I calibrated my temperature probe with a meat thermometer that was calibrated at 0c in a bucket of ice.
Then sack it off and revert to old skool tried and tested methods, a simple thermometer that costs £2 with minimal effort, rent a proper/ high end light spectrum 'par meter' for £25 with £200 deposit, your initial and constant post was originally about temperature 'hence the title'
A 10g aquarium will get hot in so many ways No1 being it's so small, you may have it on your desk next to a hot radiator, lights, wavemakers, plugs, computer underneath, so many variables, an app on your phone won't pin point these.
£10 for 5 X thermometer, stick these anywhere to source the heat.
I guess you have to go with your understanding of how these 'work'How do you verify the calibration of a "simple thermometer". I own 5 devices that read temperature including 2 "simple thermometers", Hannah salinity tester, the meat thermometer and the apex probe. Between them I'm sure the meat thermometer is most accurate (the hannah meter reads closest to it fwiw) and it's the only one that is actually actively calibrated.
I started talking about PAR because I wanted to turn the lights down thus less heat. I can rent a light meter, but why when the app has a documented history of being within the margin of error of high quality apogee meters (https://growlightmeter.com/underwater-par-measurements-for-reef-aquariums/).
Sorry I think you are misunderstanding. The app was just to measure PAR to determine if I could turn down my lights which you will agree is a source of heat. The knowledge that I could turn them down, supported by a measurement of their output, allows me to reduce heat transfered to the tank. So yes a phone app will accomplish exactly this, and a thermometer will... not.
Just for info ' none of the instruments you provided is for par meter readings'I guess you have to go with your understanding of how these 'work'
Its your aquarium and my suggestion was only another alternative to what your currently using.
I wish you the best success
LIterally the post you responded to was about using a PAR meter to tune down my lights while keeping PAR in a good range. I think you are just caught up in arguing and trying to prove I don't understand but you are not reading through the thread in good faith. The relationship between light and heat is not exactly up to debate, if you can turn down your lights you can save yourself excess heat transferred to the tank. Predictably, turning down the lights 25% has fixed the heat problem I was having; they didn't need to be as high as they were to get enough PAR. In the end, it was the most important adjustment. Thanks everyone for the help.Just for info ' none of the instruments you provided is for par meter readings'
Are you running the 95 watt light at full power?I started a little 10G nano and over the last 3 days I've had really weird heat issues. I have my heater set between 78.5 and 79.5. My lights (a standard 95w) is set to turn off at 81. Over the last three days my temperature has shot up to 81 starting at 1pm my time. I live in the north east and my house isn't getting hotter than mid 70s. My heater isn't coming on (blue line in the apex plot), even when my lights turn off the temp seems to continue to rise (lights are purple line). The other equipment in the tank is a small return pump (forget which, it was an old one) and a newer koralia kps powerhead (or whatever the small one is called).
No, I think it was more around 70%, I took that recommendation from some other thread for those settings but they were definitely a problem. I turned the channels down roughly 25% and it made things better.Are you running the 95 watt light at full power?