Zoa Melting Help

[AAReef13]

I've had about 12-13 types of Zoas over the past year and only 5 of them have survived. The ones that survive, thrive. The ones that don't survive, typically only last 1-3 weeks. There is nothing visually wrong with them ever, they just kind of shrink and shrink until they disappear. What could the issue be? I use the blue bucket of Red Sea Reef Salt and have decent lighting (for lower light requirement corals). Any thoughts are helpful.

 

[Salty_Northerner]

Are you adding any iodine to the tank?

 

[AAReef13]

Are you adding any iodine to the tank?

Yes. I add 1 drop of kent lugols solution weekly. My tank is a 50 gallon.

 

[Salty_Northerner]

@vetteguy53081 what's your thoughts?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've had about 12-13 types of Zoas over the past year and only 5 of them have survived. The ones that survive, thrive. The ones that don't survive, typically only last 1-3 weeks. There is nothing visually wrong with them ever, they just kind of shrink and shrink until they disappear. What could the issue be? I use the blue bucket of Red Sea Reef Salt and have decent lighting (for lower light requirement corals). Any thoughts are helpful.

This happens mainly due to stress which can be can be to too much light or water flow, sudden change in parameters and even use of vodka or carbon dosing which reduce nitrate quickly. Assure salinity and Phos has not become elevated. A lack of feeding can generally cause meltdowns also. Zoa s do not the type of flow SPS require and moderate flow to keep sediment off them is sufficient but most adapt to any flow. Zoas that show short stalks closer to rock are suffering from high flow. If stretching towards water surface- light is inadequate.
Some ranges you want them in are:
dKH: 8- 11
Calcium: 400 - 450
Magnesium: 1300 - 1350
Iodide: Maintained via regular water changes or manually at small dosages
Temperature: 78-79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.3
Phosphates: .06 - .08
Nitrates < 10-12

Add iodide to the water which they covert to iodine. You can give them iodine bath with Lugols version

 

[AAReef13]

This happens mainly due to stress which can be can be to too much light or water flow, sudden change in parameters and even use of vodka or carbon dosing which reduce nitrate quickly. Assure salinity and Phos has not become elevated. A lack of feeding can generally cause meltdowns also. Zoa s do not the type of flow SPS require and moderate flow to keep sediment off them is sufficient but most adapt to any flow. Zoas that show short stalks closer to rock are suffering from high flow. If stretching towards water surface- light is inadequate.
Some ranges you want them in are:
dKH: 8- 11
Calcium: 400 - 450
Magnesium: 1300 - 1350
Iodide: Maintained via regular water changes or manually at small dosages
Temperature: 78-79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.3
Phosphates: .06 - .08
Nitrates < 10-12

Add iodide to the water which they covert to iodine. You can give them iodine bath with Lugols version

The zoas aren't extended towards light and they are near the wavemaker, but they are receiving medium flow. Lack of feeding meaning lack of fish being fed or lack of direct feeding the coral?
dKH - 10
Calcium - 410
Magnesium - 1260
Temp - 78 degrees
pH - 8.3
Phosphate - .25 (how do I lower it?)
Nitrates - < 5 (I have a HOB skimmer and a .5 gallon HOB refugium with chaeto)

 

[vetteguy53081]

The zoas aren't extended towards light and they are near the wavemaker, but they are receiving medium flow. Lack of feeding meaning lack of fish being fed or lack of direct feeding the coral?
dKH - 10
Calcium - 410
Magnesium - 1260
Temp - 78 degrees
pH - 8.3
Phosphate - .25 (how do I lower it?)
Nitrates - < 5 (I have a HOB skimmer and a .5 gallon HOB refugium with chaeto)

Lack of feeding to coral. Mine get mysis and Red Sea A/B

 

[AAReef13]

Lack of feeding to coral. Mine get mysis and Red Sea A/B

I direct feed my coral a mix of reef roids and coral cane once a week. Both powdered foods. I also broadcast feed Redsea AB one a week. Should I be doing more?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I direct feed my coral a mix of reef roids and coral cane once a week. Both powdered foods. I also broadcast feed Redsea AB one a week. Should I be doing more?

While it should work, try mysis and even fish eggs also. Best is to turn pumps off a few minutes and feed - you will see them close up

 

[littlebigreef]

I've had about 12-13 types of Zoas over the past year and only 5 of them have survived. The ones that survive, thrive. The ones that don't survive, typically only last 1-3 weeks. There is nothing visually wrong with them ever, they just kind of shrink and shrink until they disappear. What could the issue be? I use the blue bucket of Red Sea Reef Salt and have decent lighting (for lower light requirement corals). Any thoughts are helpful.

Happen to know the names of the strains that didn't make it?

 

[AAReef13]

Happen to know the names of the strains that didn't make it?

I know a couple. Spiderman Zoas, Radioactive Dragon Zoas, Pink Sunshine Zoa, Peachy Pyrite Zoa. That's all I can remember.

 

[AAReef13]

While it should work, try mysis and even fish eggs also. Best is to turn pumps off a few minutes and feed - you will see them close up

Ill give it a try.

 

[Edgecrusher28]

Yes. I add 1 drop of kent lugols solution weekly. My tank is a 50 gallon.

That is likely no where near enough to maintain appropriate iodine levels. However, without ICP test its all a guess but a few well experienced dosing groups show about 2-3 drops per 100 gallons daily to be a good target baseline. One large dose although convenient just does not yield the same results that daily dosing achieves. Too much of the weekly or monthly dose is removed from the system before being bio-available to the corals; just my opinion.