zoas palys and 1.010 hyposalinity

[ZoWhat]

Having a major ICH outbreak in my zoa paly dominated DT.

Decided to do something different this time around (15yrs experience) ..... with dropping the SG within the DT in stages: 1.020 for a few days, 1.015 for a few, now at 1.010.

I've been watching all my zoas and palys and to my SURPRISE they are all looking pretty dang good for now being at 1.010 for 2 days.

Everything from BamBams to Utter Chaos to SunnyDs to about 10 other variations.... all are open and don't look stressed.

My only concern are my Grande Palys which are completely closed up but show no sign of melting away.

So fish are doing a TON better. Eating. Looks like 95% of the ICH has fallen off.....of which I have three 15watt UV-C sterilization submersible lights in the sump to hopefully kill all eggs.

So the plan is to continue the 1.010 SG until I start seeing zoas and palys struggle.... then its back to slooooowly raising SG over days.

Any thoughts on how long I can or SHOULD keep this 1.010 thing going????.



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[Reefing_addiction]

Bump for you out of curiosity

 

[vanpire]

I would like to see your progress also. This is very interesting.

 

[Cabinetman]

I can’t see them lasting long at that salt level. I’d be monitoring for amonia that’s for sure!

 

[vanpire]

Having a major ICH outbreak in my zoa paly dominated DT.

Decided to do something different this time around (15yrs experience) ..... with dropping the SG within the DT in stages: 1.020 for a few days, 1.015 for a few, now at 1.010.

I've been watching all my zoas and palys and to my SURPRISE they are all looking pretty dang good for now being at 1.010 for 2 days.

Everything from BamBams to Utter Chaos to SunnyDs to about 10 other variations.... all are open and don't look stressed.

My only concern are my Grande Palys which are completely closed up but show no sign of melting away.

So fish are doing a TON better. Eating. Looks like 95% of the ICH has fallen off.....of which I have three 15watt UV-C sterilization submersible lights in the sump to hopefully kill all eggs.

So the plan is to continue the 1.010 SG until I start seeing zoas and palys struggle.... then its back to slooooowly raising SG over days.

Any thoughts on how long I can or SHOULD keep this 1.010 thing going????.



.

I don't see that all the eggs would be killed via UV and anyway, not all eggs would go through the sump. I still would like to know your results. I know I can soak my zoas in RODI for 10 minutes or so without issues. Would like to see how long they can really last at hypo-salinity. Up to learning new things. Good luck with your ich treatment. Rooting for you.

 

[CCauthers]

Definitely following, very interested

 

[ZoWhat]

I realize my UV-C lights in the sump won't kill all the ICH eggs.... but maybe enough to where my fish can build up enough immunity.

On the health of all.my zoas palys.... if any sign of losing then pops up, im pulling the LR and putting it in a 75g im not using..

My intent is this bold move is to hold my fish in hyposalinity as long as possible while watching the zoas palys like a hawk.


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[ZoWhat]

Ok.... here's a Review and Update

Last Tuesday morning shock dropped from 1.020ish to 1.015 a day after a significant ICH outbreak hit all my tangs.

Held at 1.015 for 6 days. All tangs must have dropped their ICH bc they cleared up 2-3 days in.. Only a few zoas closed up. So that was tues > weds > thurs > fri > sat > sun.... 6 days at 1.015

The night of day6 (Sunday night) dropped to 1.010 for 24hrs bc a powder brown started showing very veryight spots again. Gave me an excuse to drop from 1.015 to 1.010 to see what would happen

Its Monday night and the powder brown cleared up.. But my Zoas palys after 24hrs @1.010 looking to be taking a slight beating...slightly closed up, polypheads slightly shrinking.

The fish have zero signs of ICH white spots but even at 1.010 .... theyre still flashing their bodies on the bottom of the BB...and have been thruout this whole ordeal. Flashing doesn't freak me out....looking like they were rolled in sugar, does

There is an African cleaner wrasse working overtime.

So tonight, Monday night, I don't think I can watch my many zoas palys take much more.... i just added salt to my 280gal'ish water volume to get it to 1.013

I have a half dozen 13w 254nm UV-C submersibles thst were being stored in boxes for future use. I just added all 6 UV-C lights in the sump all spaced out.

My sump which is in the basement is now glowing like Las Vegas with UV-C light. I know, I know watch skin and eye exposure. The sump is in its own dedicated room

Plan tmrw is to get it to 1.016 ..... then by this weekend back to 1.020

I'm going to hold on 1.020 this weekend to assess things. Fish ICH -vs- health of the zoas palys.

If fish continue to flash but really don't show white spots on their side flipper fins (which on my experience is the first area of their bodies to show ICH) nor breathing problem...i will hold at 1.020 despite their minor issues with ICH

BUT....

If fish go back to having white spots everywhere then its netting them and into a 75g im not using at 1.010.

I think ultimately my DT i want at 1.022 bc I've seen zoas palys AND fish have less stress at that number. I think 1.026 is counterproductive. IDK... we'll see...

I'll post updates tmrw and thru the weekend


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[Daniel@R2R]

Interesting. Following along.

 

[Tired]

Flashing indicates discomfort, if not outright pain. You should really be aiming to eradicate ich from your tank, not reduce it to where it won't kill them. If it's in the tank, it's waiting, and any stressor could give it the upper hand again.

I would very strongly advise removing your fish entirely, treating them properly (with medication!) until the ich is completely gone, and keeping them out of the tank until it's been fallow for long enough that the ich in it dies. Then you can have no ich in your tank, and, assuming you quarantine, can continue not to have it in your tank.

 

[ZoWhat]

Putting a cap to this experiment....

Tank back to 1.023

Hard to say if was a success or failure bc the ICH was hard hitting

Still alive:
* 7in blue hippo
* Adult yellow
* Super young adult sailfin
* CBB
* Super young adult atlantic blue
* Neon back dotty

R.I.P.
* Convict
* Clown tang
* Marble wrasse
* Two Ocellaris'
* Cleaner wrasse
* stripped bennie

Coral R.I.P.
* Duncan with about 5 heads
* Encrusting Cyphastrea

Tons of zoas and palys closed their disc's but reopened.

I'm mixed if I would ever do this this again.

 

[Tired]

So you're planning to remove and properly treat the fish? Absolutely the best way to go. You need the ich gone, not just kinda hiding out.