Algae question before it takes over

[xxjokerxx0415]

hello community fish keepers, I have bryopsis in my aquarium. I got a lettuce slug but he’s focusing on other algae to eat. And I just want this stuff gone immediately. Does anyone know what kind of hydrogen peroxide percentage I can use in my reef aquarium? When I do this treatment can I spray it in the water since the algae is on the lower level of the glass along the sand bed? Should I do a water change after this treatment? Also can anyone put a link on how to do hydrogen peroxide treatment in a reef aquarium?

 

[fishyjoes]

I don't know about peroxide, but you can get a lot out by just pulling it up - pinch it between your thumb and a siphon hose and suck it out. Basically no risk that way.

 

[brandon429]

Peroxide doesn’t work on bryopsis like that it grows back

post a pic of your tank I’ll show you an option you can use on one test rock after, then if it works, do all your rocks

pics first

 

[CoralB]

Flux rx worked for me . Follow instruction if you choose to go that route . This wasn’t considered a emergency

 

[Reefer Matt]

Fluconazole will wipe it out quick. (Reef Flux, Flux rx)

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

I don't know about peroxide, but you can get a lot out by just pulling it up - pinch it between your thumb and a siphon hose and suck it out. Basically no risk that way.

yeah but it will continue to grow that way

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

Peroxide doesn’t work on bryopsis like that it grows back

post a pic of your tank I’ll show you an option you can use on one test rock after, then if it works, do all your rocks

pics first

It just started to grow on one of my rocks

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

Flux rx worked for me . Follow instruction if you choose to go that route . This wasn’t considered a emergency

Nuisance algae is an emergency considering it’s spreading like wild fire and I have coral. Is flux rx reef safe?

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

Thank you everyone for replying.

 

[CoralB]

Nuisance algae is an emergency considering it’s spreading like wild fire and I have coral. Is flux rx reef safe?

Bryopsis won’t take over a tank over night . If you just started seeing it pull out manually and treat the tank . This is not a emergency unless you waited way too long to ask for help . .

 

[brandon429]

The fluc thread in the nuisance algae forum - stickied at the top- is about 700 pages of wiping out the initial target then the keepers have dinos or cyano for two years unbeatable. flip through the jobs, read the outcomes

fluc has a place in managing green plant invasions/regardless of the genus at hand but if you don’t want a tradeoff invasion you need to wield it differently than the masses do which comprise that giant readable thread

You would clean the tank first completely

have no plants in the tank

then use fluc as growback prevention not as plant remover, thats now a different plan than what the masses do

the cause of your issue isn’t water params it’s entirely too bright + white light for that setup

once the tank is cleaned and you apply a half dose of fluc as growback prevention, drop your light power to half its current power and get those whites off, use blues.

as the bryopsis regrows you’d physically remove it and keep the fluc steady, don’t increase it in response

what increases in response to your growback is your physical cleaning, everything else holds steady. By starting off with all dry rocks vs any live rock, this is the hassle selected in order to turn that tank into live rocks over the next three years, white rock commands six times the physical intervention discipline to control the direction of the tank.

I dont mean stick a siphon hose in the tank to clean it

am talking real true surgical cleaning. Get that stuff out of your system now, good job starting early.

a rip clean is a way of deep cleaning we’ve done several times on the forum - it’s a way of taking apart your tank to clean it without recycling it. When the tank is empty you’d scrape the algae off the glass walls. When it’s apart you’d use a knife not a brush to debride and dislodge the algae from the rocks

the tap water rinse of the sandbed will likely zap the growths off the substrate

there isn’t anything in the tank so a rip clean will be easy.

 

[CoralB]

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

Bryopsis won’t take over a tank over night . If you just started seeing it pull out manually and treat the tank . This is not an emergency unless you waited way too long to ask for help . .

It is taking over my tank I have a 30 inch carpet on my lower aquarium glass that’s in the front and I have a 12 inch long carpet going down the side of the lower tank glass and now some on the rock. And I would say it will take over pretty quickly. Why I say that? Because while I was scrubbing the glass I was trying to avoid the bryopsis so it wouldn’t spread faster and not thinking and out of habit I scrubbed the Bryopsis. In 2days it came back in the same spot like I never scrubbed the tank. So yes it won’t grow take over a tank over night but in my experience it’ll do enough spreading in 2 nights. So for me imagine 4nights 6nights 8nights. In my head it’s an emergency. It has to go bye bye for good forever. Just saying‍.

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

The fluc thread in the nuisance algae forum - stickied at the top- is about 700 pages of wiping out the initial target then the keepers have dinos or cyano for two years unbeatable. flip through the jobs, read the outcomes

fluc has a place in managing green plant invasions/regardless of the genus at hand but if you don’t want a tradeoff invasion you need to wield it differently than the masses do which comprise that giant readable thread

You would clean the tank first completely

have no plants in the tank

then use fluc as growback prevention not as plant remover, thats now a different plan than what the masses do

the cause of your issue isn’t water params it’s entirely too bright + white light for that setup

once the tank is cleaned and you apply a half dose of fluc as growback prevention, drop your light power to half its current power and get those whites off, use blues.

as the bryopsis regrows you’d physically remove it and keep the fluc steady, don’t increase it in response

what increases in response to your growback is your physical cleaning, everything else holds steady. By starting off with all dry rocks vs any live rock, this is the hassle selected in order to turn that tank into live rocks over the next three years, white rock commands six times the physical intervention discipline to control the direction of the tank.

I dont mean stick a siphon hose in the tank to clean it

am talking real true surgical cleaning. Get that stuff out of your system now, good job starting early.

a rip clean is a way of deep cleaning we’ve done several times on the forum - it’s a way of taking apart your tank to clean it without recycling it. When the tank is empty you’d scrape the algae off the glass walls. When it’s apart you’d use a knife not a brush to debride and dislodge the algae from the rocks

the tap water rinse of the sandbed will likely zap the growths off the substrate

there isn’t anything in the tank so a rip clean will be easy.

So I have read everything you put in here and I will research more into it more. Thank you for your response. But you are wrong there are living things in the tank it’s not empty. I have one super small clown fish, a linear blenny, bta, Kenya tree, neon green toad, gsp, and Duncan coral all in the tank.

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

The fluc thread in the nuisance algae forum - stickied at the top- is about 700 pages of wiping out the initial target then the keepers have dinos or cyano for two years unbeatable. flip through the jobs, read the outcomes

fluc has a place in managing green plant invasions/regardless of the genus at hand but if you don’t want a tradeoff invasion you need to wield it differently than the masses do which comprise that giant readable thread

You would clean the tank first completely

have no plants in the tank

then use fluc as growback prevention not as plant remover, thats now a different plan than what the masses do

the cause of your issue isn’t water params it’s entirely too bright + white light for that setup

once the tank is cleaned and you apply a half dose of fluc as growback prevention, drop your light power to half its current power and get those whites off, use blues.

as the bryopsis regrows you’d physically remove it and keep the fluc steady, don’t increase it in response

what increases in response to your growback is your physical cleaning, everything else holds steady. By starting off with all dry rocks vs any live rock, this is the hassle selected in order to turn that tank into live rocks over the next three years, white rock commands six times the physical intervention discipline to control the direction of the tank.

I dont mean stick a siphon hose in the tank to clean it

am talking real true surgical cleaning. Get that stuff out of your system now, good job starting early.

a rip clean is a way of deep cleaning we’ve done several times on the forum - it’s a way of taking apart your tank to clean it without recycling it. When the tank is empty you’d scrape the algae off the glass walls. When it’s apart you’d use a knife not a brush to debride and dislodge the algae from the rocks

the tap water rinse of the sandbed will likely zap the growths off the substrate

there isn’t anything in the tank so a rip clean will be easy.

I’m sorry Brandon the picture of the of the empty tank is my friends saltwater 10gallon I have cycling. The big purple rock is just one of my live rocks from my tank to help him with his cycle considering my tank is cycled. But this is my tank with the bryopsis in it.

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

The fluc thread in the nuisance algae forum - stickied at the top- is about 700 pages of wiping out the initial target then the keepers have dinos or cyano for two years unbeatable. flip through the jobs, read the outcomes

fluc has a place in managing green plant invasions/regardless of the genus at hand but if you don’t want a tradeoff invasion you need to wield it differently than the masses do which comprise that giant readable thread

You would clean the tank first completely

have no plants in the tank

then use fluc as growback prevention not as plant remover, thats now a different plan than what the masses do

the cause of your issue isn’t water params it’s entirely too bright + white light for that setup

once the tank is cleaned and you apply a half dose of fluc as growback prevention, drop your light power to half its current power and get those whites off, use blues.

as the bryopsis regrows you’d physically remove it and keep the fluc steady, don’t increase it in response

what increases in response to your growback is your physical cleaning, everything else holds steady. By starting off with all dry rocks vs any live rock, this is the hassle selected in order to turn that tank into live rocks over the next three years, white rock commands six times the physical intervention discipline to control the direction of the tank.

I dont mean stick a siphon hose in the tank to clean it

am talking real true surgical cleaning. Get that stuff out of your system now, good job starting early.

a rip clean is a way of deep cleaning we’ve done several times on the forum - it’s a way of taking apart your tank to clean it without recycling it. When the tank is empty you’d scrape the algae off the glass walls. When it’s apart you’d use a knife not a brush to debride and dislodge the algae from the rocks

the tap water rinse of the sandbed will likely zap the growths off the substrate

there isn’t anything in the tank so a rip clean will be easy.

I’m sorry Brandon the picture of the of the empty tank is my friends saltwater 10gallon I have cycling. The big purple rock is just one of my live rocks from my tank to help him with his cycle considering my tank is cycled. But this is my tank with the bryopsis in it.

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

The fluc thread in the nuisance algae forum - stickied at the top- is about 700 pages of wiping out the initial target then the keepers have dinos or cyano for two years unbeatable. flip through the jobs, read the outcomes

fluc has a place in managing green plant invasions/regardless of the genus at hand but if you don’t want a tradeoff invasion you need to wield it differently than the masses do which comprise that giant readable thread

You would clean the tank first completely

have no plants in the tank

then use fluc as growback prevention not as plant remover, thats now a different plan than what the masses do

the cause of your issue isn’t water params it’s entirely too bright + white light for that setup

once the tank is cleaned and you apply a half dose of fluc as growback prevention, drop your light power to half its current power and get those whites off, use blues.

as the bryopsis regrows you’d physically remove it and keep the fluc steady, don’t increase it in response

what increases in response to your growback is your physical cleaning, everything else holds steady. By starting off with all dry rocks vs any live rock, this is the hassle selected in order to turn that tank into live rocks over the next three years, white rock commands six times the physical intervention discipline to control the direction of the tank.

I dont mean stick a siphon hose in the tank to clean it

am talking real true surgical cleaning. Get that stuff out of your system now, good job starting early.

a rip clean is a way of deep cleaning we’ve done several times on the forum - it’s a way of taking apart your tank to clean it without recycling it. When the tank is empty you’d scrape the algae off the glass walls. When it’s apart you’d use a knife not a brush to debride and dislodge the algae from the rocks

the tap water rinse of the sandbed will likely zap the growths off the substrate

there isn’t anything in the tank so a rip clean will be easy.

I’m sorry Brandon the picture of the of the empty tank is my friends saltwater 10gallon I have cycling. The big purple rock is just one of my live rocks from my tank to help him with his cycle considering my tank is cycled. But this is my tank with the bryopsis in it.

You can’t tell where it is in the photo. But if you look along the bottom where the black trim is you’ll see it looks a little hazy, that the bryopsis.

 

[OctaviusBrine]

Reef flux I doubled the dose it’s whipping mine out pretty quickly. I was hoping for a side effect of taking out my bubble algae as well. We will see

 

[xxjokerxx0415]

I really would like to not dose the tank if I don’t have too. After doing some research I found that companies don’t even test their products on aquarium. Which is why products like Vibrant have a 50/50 shot of working or killing your coral. Reef flux is a brand that you can get some decent results with like you’re seeing judging all by the reviews but again it’s an additive that’s not been tested. Don’t tell the fish tank companies I told you .

 

[I never finish anythi]

I really would like to not dose the tank if I don’t have too. After doing some research I found that companies don’t even test their products on aquarium. Which is why products like Vibrant have a 50/50 shot of working or killing your coral. Reef flux is a brand that you can get some decent results with like you’re seeing judging all by the reviews but again it’s an additive that’s not been tested. Don’t tell the fish tank companies I told you .

You say in the first post you want it gone immediately. That ain't gonna happen unfortunately. Bryposis is a pita tbh. If you ain't gonna use any chemicals then lots of manual removal is needed. Rocks need to be taken out of the DT and you need to get the roots of the bryposis out or it will just keep returning. Good luck tho. Keep us updated on the journey