Cyanobacteria Assistance

[Uncle99]

I find Nopox much better in mopping up nitrate than phosphate. Phosphate I need to bind to something and remove like GFO or like phosphate Rx.

Yesterday, your nitrate was 17.6ppm more than enough and reduction would be fine as well.

Your phosphate at 0.06ppm is very good provided it’s not constantly rising from week to week. Same with nitrate.

Your brining MG up that’s good, too low and sometimes I get weird ALK readings.

The best way to rid of pest algae is to let the good critters in your system, do it for you, but they don’t come fast.

Nothing wrong with a full reset with Chemi when you feel the system is ready.

Once you go clean, (and it’s easy to see) as long as the system maintains it’s stability, the pests can’t outcompete the good guys anymore.

But if things change fast, they wait in the background.

 

[devlinsreef]

I find Nopox much better in mopping up nitrate than phosphate. Phosphate I need to bind to something and remove like GFO or like phosphate Rx.

This is what I have read as well. It’s more of a nitrate attacker than phosphate. In a perfect world of levels I need to get my phos up and nitrates down a bit to be closer to that 1:1 ratio.

 

[Uncle99]

This is what I have read as well. It’s more of a nitrate attacker than phosphate. In a perfect world of levels I need to get my phos up and nitrates down a bit to be closer to that 1:1 ratio.

You’re at 17.
Iam at 15 for years.
But I can keep there week after week.
Reduce nitrate, sure, but super super slow.
We want to ensure everyone getting fed.
5-15ppm nitrate steady
0.05-.15ppm phosphate steady
See which your system likes under normal feedings and water changes.

 

[MT. Reefer]

I too have a 150 with 60 gal sump. I have tried Chemi Clean more than once because everyone seems to recommend it. However each time the Cyano just came right back. So, I switched to UltraLife Red Slime Stain remover, repeated treatment in two days and haven't seen it again. Just sayin.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Many resort to chemical treatments without first determining the source. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Charles Zinn]

Hello fellow reefers!

Yes, the dreaded thread of Cynaobacteria. I've done quite a bit of research before this, but I am looking for some other thoughts on what I should do to eradicate this issue and suggestions. I guess we can start by my current levels and what I am dosing.
Nitrate: 17.6
Phosphate 0.06
Mag: 1200
Calc: 460
Alk: 7.8

Currently working on getting my mag and alk levels higher, but just started adjusting those numbers over the past week with dosing.
Dosing: Nopox and Phyto. I just started doing weekly coral snow and biodigest. ( I just started all this dosing within the last two weeks)

The tank is a 150-gallon SC aquarium with two 2k gyers on the back and 4k gyers on the sides of the display. I run 2ks on the sine wave setting and the 4ks on the SPS reef setup. The tank has been up and running for over a year. I did however purchase this tank from someone and moved the tank about 4 months ago. I had an original cynao outbreak that went away and then for the last month or so I have been dealing with it once again. I am not sure if it is a lack of biodiversity within the system, not enough flow, or what is going on. Most of the cynao is bound up in the sand and occasionally I will get some buildup on my rocks. I have been trying my best to baste off my rocks and sand as much as possible. I have been also doing water changes to siphon out the cynao but I have not had much luck making a dent.

I have recently purchased Chemi-Clean but this is probably something I would want to stay away from a really get to the root cause of the issue so that it goes away for good. Any thoughts on what my next move should be on trying to beat the Cynao. It seems from what I have read and learned that the tank inbalance is allowing the Cynao to out compete other bacteria in the system. Am I in the process of waiting and taking the right steps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, or success stories will help. Thanks for your time in advance!

I’d stop dosing except phyto and bacteria.
The move sets your system back, your parameters look fine so they would not be contributing, hold fast your parameters, suck it out when seen, make no changes and wait to your system resets in a few months.

Chemi clean I’ve used without issue but run an airstone and skim.

After listening to Lou Ekos, Using Live Rock Enhance, Adding Copapods and Ampapods, If you get a past on bottom Suck it up in a water change. Continue to add copapods and ampapods . and what type of bacteria diversity do you have in tank., I it in balance. I plan to do tank test with Aquabionics. Currently no cyano in 12 months

 

[dandi]

I watched this series of videos and it explain a great deal. If you have the time give it a view.

 

[Dburr1014]

Hello fellow reefers!

Yes, the dreaded thread of Cynaobacteria. I've done quite a bit of research before this, but I am looking for some other thoughts on what I should do to eradicate this issue and suggestions. I guess we can start by my current levels and what I am dosing.
Nitrate: 17.6
Phosphate 0.06
Mag: 1200
Calc: 460
Alk: 7.8

Currently working on getting my mag and alk levels higher, but just started adjusting those numbers over the past week with dosing.
Dosing: Nopox and Phyto. I just started doing weekly coral snow and biodigest. ( I just started all this dosing within the last two weeks)

The tank is a 150-gallon SC aquarium with two 2k gyers on the back and 4k gyers on the sides of the display. I run 2ks on the sine wave setting and the 4ks on the SPS reef setup. The tank has been up and running for over a year. I did however purchase this tank from someone and moved the tank about 4 months ago. I had an original cynao outbreak that went away and then for the last month or so I have been dealing with it once again. I am not sure if it is a lack of biodiversity within the system, not enough flow, or what is going on. Most of the cynao is bound up in the sand and occasionally I will get some buildup on my rocks. I have been trying my best to baste off my rocks and sand as much as possible. I have been also doing water changes to siphon out the cynao but I have not had much luck making a dent.

I have recently purchased Chemi-Clean but this is probably something I would want to stay away from a really get to the root cause of the issue so that it goes away for good. Any thoughts on what my next move should be on trying to beat the Cynao. It seems from what I have read and learned that the tank inbalance is allowing the Cynao to out compete other bacteria in the system. Am I in the process of waiting and taking the right steps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, or success stories will help. Thanks for your time in advance!

Lots of advice.
Some I agree, some not so much.
I do agree to get mag up. Retest alkalinity after it's up to 1300+

I do agree to stop nopox and see what happens over the coarse of a couple weeks.
Nopox is great at reducing no3 and not po4. It's allowing bacteria to build populations. Bacteria then get exported via skimmer or socks.

I do agree cyano generally starts because of an imbalance of nutrients. It starts mats in areas of low flow and are very good at creating its own food if there are none to be found.
So saying it starts in high nutrient tanks I do not agree with. They can start in any tank. They also can persist in low light.
Personally I would not use chemiclean unless you have exhausted all other avenues.
Check your flow on your matted areas. Suck out the mat and adjust flow if needed.

Do continue phyto. This is feeding pods and they will help.

 

[dandi]

This is a very informative video.

 

[Dburr1014]

This is a very informative video.

You should post it again then Beatlejuice will appear. JK, of course.

 

[dandi]

This was before I had coffee

 

[devlinsreef]

Many resort to chemical treatments without first determining the source. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Thank you Vetteguy, this is some great takeaways! I will add additional cleaner crew as well.

After listening to Lou Ekos, Using Live Rock Enhance, Adding Copapods and Ampapods, If you get a past on bottom Suck it up in a water change. Continue to add copapods and ampapods . and what type of bacteria diversity do you have in tank., I it in balance. I plan to do tank test with Aquabionics. Currently no cyano in 12 months

Interesting theory here. Ill have to do some more research on this method

I watched this series of videos and it explain a great deal. If you have the time give it a view.

Thank you, I will take a look!

Lots of advice.
Some I agree, some not so much.
I do agree to get mag up. Retest alkalinity after it's up to 1300+

I do agree to stop nopox and see what happens over the coarse of a couple weeks.
Nopox is great at reducing no3 and not po4. It's allowing bacteria to build populations. Bacteria then get exported via skimmer or socks.

I do agree cyano generally starts because of an imbalance of nutrients. It starts mats in areas of low flow and are very good at creating its own food if there are none to be found.
So saying it starts in high nutrient tanks I do not agree with. They can start in any tank. They also can persist in low light.
Personally I would not use chemiclean unless you have exhausted all other avenues.
Check your flow on your matted areas. Suck out the mat and adjust flow if needed.

Do continue phyto. This is feeding pods and they will help.

Thanks Dburr. Okay, so a lot of people are talking about stopping Nopox. Now a question regarding that. I only started Nopox over the last two weeks to try to find a balance with my nitrates and phosphates. I had a recent test today and my nitrates were down to 14 and my phosphates are at 0.11. Do you think I should stop the Nopox.

I also agree with the research I have done it can be seen in both types of environments. I would like to not use Chemiclean as I am going to take a few suggestions from this group and see if I can make a dent. I may add that the cynao is not that bad, but I would like to of course eradicate before getting to the bad stage. I will absolutely check my flow. As far as flow I have the 2ks on the sine wave setting and my 4ks on the SPS setting. Thought I had a decent amount going but I'll see what I can play with to make a difference.

 

[Troylee]

Stay away from nopox or any carbon source as it fuels cyano! Manual removal or just use chemiclean and be done.. I’ve never had a issue with chemiclean

 

[Mikeltee]

I see what you’re saying. Thanks for the clarification. Wanted to get a better understanding of your thought process there and your experience. Okay so you’re suggesting to stop Nopox so my phosphates can climb. (I will say I only started this over the last week and my phosphates went form 0.03 to 0.06. Not saying that’s from Nopox. Nitrates went from 27 to 17 over this span.) Would you suggest feeding phyto as well, along with food. How about a water change, or let that go for now. What was your best way of keeping them away after using chemi clean

I'd wait on the water change until after the chemiclean dose because its going to lower phosphates even more. Follow the instructions for the chemiclean and dont forget about rock and sand displacement. You need to do a big water change after it works its magic... and I assure you that it's magic as it's worked everytime. Your skimmer will go nuts for weeks. You need to keep it on for aeration so just remove the cup and turn it down. After the cyno is gone, which will be about 24-48hours, I wetskim. I'd empty my cup 10 times a day. Do this for 2 or 3 days and you won't have to wait 2-3 weeks for your skimmer to settle down. I learned this trick the last 2 times I had it. The first 2 times I just waited.

Yea you want to stop the NoPox to prevent your Phosphates from bottoming out. Something else is causing that rise. That low of a reading could just be your testing procedure. I use Hanna checkers. I remove fingerprints before I place it in the reader and I also ALWAYS line up the 10ml writing with the front of the meter. Deformations in the glass will skew the numbers so it needs to be in the same spot for both readings with no fingerprints. You also don't want to contaminate the packet of chemicals. Figure out how to open the packet without touching the packet near where you pour. Make sure you rinse your vial with RODI after testing and another trick would be to rinse the vial in your tank right before you test. With numbers as low as yours, you want to take all variables out of the mix! I tested wrong for 10 years...

 

[Dburr1014]

I'd wait on the water change until after the chemiclean dose because its going to lower phosphates even more.

Why would a water change lower phosphates?

 

[devlinsreef]

I'd wait on the water change until after the chemiclean dose because its going to lower phosphates even more. Follow the instructions for the chemiclean and dont forget about rock and sand displacement. You need to do a big water change after it works its magic... and I assure you that it's magic as it's worked everytime. Your skimmer will go nuts for weeks. You need to keep it on for aeration so just remove the cup and turn it down. After the cyno is gone, which will be about 24-48hours, I wetskim. I'd empty my cup 10 times a day. Do this for 2 or 3 days and you won't have to wait 2-3 weeks for your skimmer to settle down. I learned this trick the last 2 times I had it. The first 2 times I just waited.

Yea you want to stop the NoPox to prevent your Phosphates from bottoming out. Something else is causing that rise. That low of a reading could just be your testing procedure. I use Hanna checkers. I remove fingerprints before I place it in the reader and I also ALWAYS line up the 10ml writing with the front of the meter. Deformations in the glass will skew the numbers so it needs to be in the same spot for both readings with no fingerprints. You also don't want to contaminate the packet of chemicals. Figure out how to open the packet without touching the packet near where you pour. Make sure you rinse your vial with RODI after testing and another trick would be to rinse the vial in your tank right before you test. With numbers as low as yours, you want to take all variables out of the mix! I tested wrong for 10 years...

Thanks for the info. I couldn't agree more on the Hannah checkers. Those dang things are finky. Good thoughts on making sure to line them up and removing as much fingerprints as possible. I try to do all these precautions and keep it consistent.

I am going to try one water change and get some of the cynao sucked out. I would ideally like to stay away from the chemiclean. But I understand that I am getting closer to that being the option and route I have to take.

 

[Mikeltee]

Why would a water change lower phosphates?

You remove what's in the water column but you are right... the rocks and sand which are leeching the phosphates will equalize in a short period of time. While it's not the most effective source of nutrient transport, it still must be considered. I would assume that most people vacuum their sand while doing a water change which will remove buildup on the sand bed which is a major source of increasing nutrients.

 

[bratfink]

I think I put this in a different thread on the topic.
Trocus snails will eat some types of cyano. I have red slime growing, been battling it the last few weeks. My trocus snails do eat it, but it grows faster than they can eat it.
I am determined to beat it without adding chemicals.

But I’m wondering if a quick reaction force of large numbers of trocus could clear out cyano without chemical intervention. Of course doesn’t fix the underlying reason the cyano arrived. And you have to figure out how to offload 100 trocus snails after a week or so.

Maybe it’s a crap idea after all.

 

[Lavey29]

I have not, but ill be sure to read up on it and see if I can implement the process to see if it makes an impact.

Extreme Water Clarity and Cyano Eradication, Made Easy!

Edit 10/092023: Note that I have tweaked the formula a bit. You can find an updated video here: Coral Snow Link: Coral Snow Hello all! I have been reefing now for about 25 years, and over those many years I have picked up many tips, tricks, and best habits/practices. From a hobbyist and...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[devlinsreef]

Extreme Water Clarity and Cyano Eradication, Made Easy!

Edit 10/092023: Note that I have tweaked the formula a bit. You can find an updated video here: Coral Snow Link: Coral Snow Hello all! I have been reefing now for about 25 years, and over those many years I have picked up many tips, tricks, and best habits/practices. From a hobbyist and...

www.reef2reef.com

I’ve seen him explain this on ig, believe it’s reefsite. Gonna see what this can do for me!