FRAGHOUSE CORALS 10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY LIVE SALE 2 DAY EVENT MARCH 9TH-10TH 1500 SPS FRAGS UP TO 80% OFF PLUS CODYBOT GAMES
- Thread starter FraghouseCorals
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 1, Members: 0, Guests: 1)
OP
OP
Free over $299
OP
OP
Yes that’s the normal price. The modules were only for the livesale Free over $299 tho
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
I placed an order last night before seeing the Clear out Code I could have added a few more acros...
I could have added a few more acros...
OP
OP
Clear out code just went into affect… you can still add to your orderI placed an order last night before seeing the Clear out Code
Mikeltee
Valuable Member
Did you light acclimate it? That's a controversial subject. I always put my acros on a frag rack and slowly raise to the top over the course of 7-10 days then mount. I suppose that if you get it from someone that had 300-400 par on it, it is best to put it right back under the same conditions. Buying from a LFS that has had it in 100 par for a few weeks would be a different story.
I'd like to hear from some expert stickheads on the topic.
billyocean
10K Club member
All depends on who you get it from. It never hurts to acclimate but "par" isn't just a standard number so to speak...spectrum has a lot to do with it. Pretty much everything of mine goes into 300+ but if it looks like it's in need of some shade I will oblige.
Mikeltee
Valuable Member
Thanks for this. What is a sign that a frag might need some shade?
billyocean
10K Club member
If they look pale or less vibrant or if PE seems to be limited. There's a lot of factors involved that play a part really. Safest way would be work them up as you see fit. It's always easier to raise them up in par than burn them and try to save them. 250 should be a reasonably safe zone. After enough time you'll be able to develop an eye for it. Then at the end of the day...acros can just die out of nowhere randomly and really make you scatch your head..lol.
Mikeltee
Valuable Member
That's my luck for sure. I got a couple of moderately expensive frags a couple of weeks ago that are straight up brown. The guy told me it's just shock and the tissue looks fine. Do you reduce lighting in this case? They are under about 250 par at the moment. Once my FHC pack lands, I'm going to add another light and get everything to about 350. I use Hydras and an Apogee so I assume that I have the necessary tools to get the job done. I've never had much luck with SPS before because I would burn them out. I realized that after I got an Apogee. They were exposed to about 600 par for a couple of years. They wouldn't last more than a month. Whoops! The dang Red nuisance discomas loved it though and took over the tank.
Here's my spectrum. Do you have any recommendations?
billyocean
10K Club member
As l9ng as algae isn't growing on them they aren't dead..lol. as far as lighting I run viparspectra "black boxes" and have no lighting issues at all...so the hydras should be fine. Looks like the Saxby schedule? It should be ok but I'm not a lighting expert. IMO flow is as important as water quality as most lights will be fine these days. I prefer heavy/random/indirect flow..think washing machine. There are a ton of people out there with more experience and knowledge than me for sure. What i do works well for me so some tweaking and experimentation on your own recipe will be needed...as all tanks/owners are different. The real thing I chase is seeing new growth and all the other things usually fall in line. Others might be more suited to guide you on the brown..I always get that mixed up for solutions/causes
acropora4u
Valuable Member
Yes, I always acclimate starting at about 200 par and leave it there for a few days before moving it up
OP
OP
It just depends really…. If you put them in lower par coming from me then they’re probably going to darken, dull, or green/brown out if you’re running similar parameters and lighting. When I cut the corals they go directly on the rack in the same par the colony is in. I run higher par OR a warmer spectrum than majority of the vendors you guys buy from. How do I know this? Easy, when I buy from those same vendors majority of the time they lighten up even in my lower lit spots. When I ship the corals they’re already getting jacked out of some of the photo period for that day so I’d say place them a little lower than I recommended on the bag and see what it does, if in a couple days it hasn’t bleached then you’re probably good to place permanently. Spectrum/par is key along with the alkalinity of your tank. If you run higher than 9 DKH it’s probably a good idea to start them lower in the tank. This subject is tough but Iv learned a lot from bringing in maricultured colonies and how they react to lighting and parameter changes. As long as your parameters are pretty close to mine then success rate is higher. Temperature I believe also plays a role. I keep my tanks at 77 degrees so if you’re one that keeps his tank at 81 you might loose some. Iv tweaked many things in the 18 years Iv been keeping sps and I like lower alk, lower temp, and lower nutrient with high lighting. I see the biggest growth spurts at those levels. Still need to school the hobby on these white growth tips lol if you don’t have white growth tips then you ain’t growin acro lol or at least not as fast as you could be!!! But that’s a whole different topic!!!!
OP
OP
Here’s a great example, top pic is old growth and more than likely will just encrust and you will get new growth from the encrustation. bottom is a new growth shoot that has 6 baby new growth branches that will more than likely keep growing once you get the frag in your tank (if it likes your tank). I think majority of reefers think the white tips are a bad thing or think it’s bleached but it’s actually a cut of the most thriving part of the colony. STICKHEADS that know know and the others are just missing out and wonder why the frag might take a year or 2 before it grows into a colony. Just thought I’d drop some wisdom on the topic because I feel like a lot of people get scared or turned off and it actually really bothers me. It used to happen at shows sometimes, have a big old nice church of new growth and they want to argue saying it’s bleached or dead…. No sir you just have never seen fast acro growth and maybe don’t have much experience in the acro game lol
Similar threads
