“Freshwater dips” (FW Dips) are commonly used to dislodge certain parasites from the skin of marine fishes. This is more of a diagnostic tool, and less of a permanent cure. Dips can be used to lower the parasite load temporarily, while waiting for another treatment to begin.
Looking at the bottom of the black dip container after the fish has been returned to the tank can sometimes help identify flukes. Neobenedenia flukes are the only species large enough to be seen with the naked eye, other flukes and Turbellarian worms require the use of a microscope or strong hand lens to see them.
To perform these dips, the fish is captured and placed in a dimly lit container (black is best) of clean freshwater the same temperature as the aquarium system it came from. It is usually best not use reverse osmosis or deionized water, as there is no buffer capacity and the pH can drop too low. If you do use that water source, adjust the pH to 8.0 with baking soda. Dechlorinated tap water is suitable unless it is very acidic. The dip container should be covered with a clear material so that the fish is kept from jumping out, yet can still be observed for overt signs of stress. Hold the fish in the freshwater for five minutes (up to seven minutes for larger parasites such as copepods). If acute stress is seen, the dip may need to be terminated early. The idea is to dislodge the parasites, without unduly harming the fish. Some advocate to not aerate the water during the dip, but this is incorrect. The water motion from air bubbles can help keep the fish active so that they can be better assessed for stress. Additionally, the air bubbles help dislodge some parasites during the dip process.
Some caveats:
1) Some fish will give extreme reactions to being dipped (hepatus tangs for example), as long as they were swimming well before the dip, it is best to ignore that behavior and continue for a full five minutes.
2) Moribund (dying) fish can be dipped, but understand that the acute stress from the dip may prove fatal. The dip water should still be checked for parasites in order to possibly help any remaining fish. Moribund would include any fish that was easy to capture or a fish with a respiration rate of 200+ BPM.
3) Choose the type of net wisely, some fish have spines that will become caught in the netting. Have a pair of scissors handy to cut the net if this happens.
4) Dropping a fish while moving it to and from the dip is common, take care. Some fish have venomous spines, so know that before trying to handle any fish.
5) Fish shaking their heads violently after capture is one cause of mechanical exophthalmos (popeye), so try to gently restrain them in the net while moving them.
Aquarists are often inclined to perform a FW dip when it really isn't advisable, simply because it can be done without buying medications. However, catching fish up to perform a dip is stressful and can damage/kill the fish if not done properly - far outweighing any benefit from the dip itself.
Looking at the bottom of the black dip container after the fish has been returned to the tank can sometimes help identify flukes. Neobenedenia flukes are the only species large enough to be seen with the naked eye, other flukes and Turbellarian worms require the use of a microscope or strong hand lens to see them.
To perform these dips, the fish is captured and placed in a dimly lit container (black is best) of clean freshwater the same temperature as the aquarium system it came from. It is usually best not use reverse osmosis or deionized water, as there is no buffer capacity and the pH can drop too low. If you do use that water source, adjust the pH to 8.0 with baking soda. Dechlorinated tap water is suitable unless it is very acidic. The dip container should be covered with a clear material so that the fish is kept from jumping out, yet can still be observed for overt signs of stress. Hold the fish in the freshwater for five minutes (up to seven minutes for larger parasites such as copepods). If acute stress is seen, the dip may need to be terminated early. The idea is to dislodge the parasites, without unduly harming the fish. Some advocate to not aerate the water during the dip, but this is incorrect. The water motion from air bubbles can help keep the fish active so that they can be better assessed for stress. Additionally, the air bubbles help dislodge some parasites during the dip process.
Some caveats:
1) Some fish will give extreme reactions to being dipped (hepatus tangs for example), as long as they were swimming well before the dip, it is best to ignore that behavior and continue for a full five minutes.
2) Moribund (dying) fish can be dipped, but understand that the acute stress from the dip may prove fatal. The dip water should still be checked for parasites in order to possibly help any remaining fish. Moribund would include any fish that was easy to capture or a fish with a respiration rate of 200+ BPM.
3) Choose the type of net wisely, some fish have spines that will become caught in the netting. Have a pair of scissors handy to cut the net if this happens.
4) Dropping a fish while moving it to and from the dip is common, take care. Some fish have venomous spines, so know that before trying to handle any fish.
5) Fish shaking their heads violently after capture is one cause of mechanical exophthalmos (popeye), so try to gently restrain them in the net while moving them.
Aquarists are often inclined to perform a FW dip when it really isn't advisable, simply because it can be done without buying medications. However, catching fish up to perform a dip is stressful and can damage/kill the fish if not done properly - far outweighing any benefit from the dip itself.