Ich in my display tank...

AlexR9364

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Well ****. Have just upgraded from a 200L to a 500L aquarium (I think from 48 Gal to 125 Gal). Was previously running UV but the old set up won't accommodate for this much water. I have opted to go sumpless, so I will need to plumb in a new UV steriliser, which after Christmas and all the new equipment I don't have the funds for. I don't want to remove the fish from the DT as they are only just settling back in from the stress of moving. What are my options here?
Big push come to shove I can remove the inverts and treat the tank with copper, but will this kill my coral?
 

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Well ****. Have just upgraded from a 200L to a 500L aquarium (I think from 48 Gal to 125 Gal). Was previously running UV but the old set up won't accommodate for this much water. I have opted to go sumpless, so I will need to plumb in a new UV steriliser, which after Christmas and all the new equipment I don't have the funds for. I don't want to remove the fish from the DT as they are only just settling back in from the stress of moving. What are my options here?
Big push come to shove I can remove the inverts and treat the tank with copper, but will this kill my coral?
Ideal is to leave inverts especially if youre going to set up a tank for them anyway. Problem is, your fish are host for ich and you want to remove them and leave tank without hosts (fish) to allow them to starve and die off through various stages and doing this for 6-8 weeks, preferable 8 weeks to assure their life cycle is ended
Sterilizer up front rather than after would have proven to be effective with protozoans
There will be higher stress to fish if disease is present rather than moving to a treatment tank which will require less coppersafe
Please also provide pics under white light intensity of the fish with ich to confirm its not anything other
 
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AlexR9364

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Ideal is to leave inverts especially if youre going to set up a tank for them anyway. Problem is, your fish are host for ich and you want to remove them and leave tank without hosts (fish) to allow them to starve and die off through various stages and doing this for 6-8 weeks, preferable 8 weeks to assure their life cycle is ended
Sterilizer up front rather than after would have proven to be effective with protozoans
There will be higher stress to fish if disease is present rather than moving to a treatment tank which will require less coppersafe
Please also provide pics under white light intensity of the fish with ich to confirm its not anything other
I shall try and get some pics tomorrow as the lights are ramping down for tonight. They are all eating amazingly and super active. I have got a hospital tank set up, but it wouldn't fit them all (two coral beauties two clowns, one blue eyed kole tang, one mandarin dragonet and one scooter blenny). I could have used my old dt tank but my partner dropped it as we were moving it and it is now massively cracked.
 

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Well ****. Have just upgraded from a 200L to a 500L aquarium (I think from 48 Gal to 125 Gal). Was previously running UV but the old set up won't accommodate for this much water. I have opted to go sumpless, so I will need to plumb in a new UV steriliser, which after Christmas and all the new equipment I don't have the funds for. I don't want to remove the fish from the DT as they are only just settling back in from the stress of moving. What are my options here?
Big push come to shove I can remove the inverts and treat the tank with copper, but will this kill my coral?
It's unclear what you're asking - are your fish showing illness? Many hundreds *thousands) of reefers do not use UV. The way I read this thread - you are not having an illness - unless my computer is not picking up posts - there is nothing to do. In other words there is no illness you're changing your tank - there is nothing you need to do -IMHO - I you want to add a UV - the larger gallons of your new tank would require a bigger UV - yet hundreds of reefers have no UV and do fine. I'm sorry if I'm misunderstanding your question:). Good luck with the new tank. I just re-read it all- if you think you have Ich - you have a couple choices (assuming no corals, inverts). you could do hypo salinity in the display (if no inverts) you could do that also in a hospital tank. Unfortunately your question (to me) is not clear.
 
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AlexR9364

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It's unclear what you're asking - are your fish showing illness? Many hundreds *thousands) of reefers do not use UV. The way I read this thread - you are not having an illness - unless my computer is not picking up posts - there is nothing to do. In other words there is no illness you're changing your tank - there is nothing you need to do -IMHO - I you want to add a UV - the larger gallons of your new tank would require a bigger tank - yet hundreds of reefers have no UV and do fine. I'm sorry if I'm misunderstanding your question:). Good luck with the new tank
I think my fish have ich as the blue eyed kole tang has small white specks along the dorsal fin and upper body. My larger coral beauty has a few on their face.
They have been picking at the substrates, so it could be that stuck in their slime coat. I might be panicking over nothing here as they are the healthiest they have ever been, but I am just not sure. I will grab some pictures tomorrow.
 

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I re-read your initial post - still do not understand -- if this is a FOWLR
Well ****. Have just upgraded from a 200L to a 500L aquarium (I think from 48 Gal to 125 Gal). Was previously running UV but the old set up won't accommodate for this much water. I have opted to go sumpless, so I will need to plumb in a new UV steriliser, which after Christmas and all the new equipment I don't have the funds for. I don't want to remove the fish from the DT as they are only just settling back in from the stress of moving. What are my options here?
Big push come to shove I can remove the inverts and treat the tank with copper, but will this kill my coral?
I'm going to re-answer based on your question. There should be no new disease/issues because you have upgraded your tank - unless the stress of the changeover has caused enough stress to cause a disease in your fish
 

MnFish1

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I think my fish have ich as the blue eyed kole tang has small white specks along the dorsal fin and upper body. My larger coral beauty has a few on their face.
They have been picking at the substrates, so it could be that stuck in their slime coat. I might be panicking over nothing here as they are the healthiest they have ever been, but I am just not sure. I will grab some pictures tomorrow.
Pictures under white light - as others have said - are important - and correct you might be panicking over nothing - however. its best to catch things early as compared to late
 

MnFish1

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I think my fish have ich as the blue eyed kole tang has small white specks along the dorsal fin and upper body. My larger coral beauty has a few on their face.
They have been picking at the substrates, so it could be that stuck in their slime coat. I might be panicking over nothing here as they are the healthiest they have ever been, but I am just not sure. I will grab some pictures tomorrow.
Pictures under white light would be very nice. Also - if they do not appear acutely ill, you can wait a bit - do the spots move day to day (suggestive of Ich) - as compared to not moving over a couple days)
 

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I’d wait an observe a bit more before ick diagnosis.
A few specs on a couple fish. I’d see where that goes over the next few days, do they disappear and reappear, with more in count. Stop eating, flashing, lathargic, something plus white dots then maybe a parasite infection.

Just keep everything normal.
 

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If it’s ick and it’s just starting, you can try Polyp Lab Reef Medic. It helps when there are only a few spots on the fish.

But read on ick management. Ick is in many tanks and people learn to manage it. Jay has written an article about it I believe.
 

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I shall try and get some pics tomorrow as the lights are ramping down for tonight. They are all eating amazingly and super active. I have got a hospital tank set up, but it wouldn't fit them all (two coral beauties two clowns, one blue eyed kole tang, one mandarin dragonet and one scooter blenny). I could have used my old dt tank but my partner dropped it as we were moving it and it is now massively cracked.
If ich, post a few pics asap than waiting another day and ich can be transferred with fish, so a new tank does NOT disqualify having parasites
Oh no on the tank
 
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AlexR9364

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After several hours by the tank this is the best I could get. Checking my larger CB and all spots seem to have gone?
On the tang they seem to mostly be on the top of the head, upper body where the dorsal fin attaches to the body and on the pectoral fins.
Still really active and eating with great gutso.
 

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AlexR9364

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So I am holding fire at the moment. All spots have gone and all fish seem fine. Very active and eating loads. I have prepared a hospital tank and got the necessary medications in stock, just in case anything takes a turn for the worse.
 

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