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Ballast box contents:
Isaac's CADE 1500s2/ Peninsula Reef Build
- Build Thread
- Thread starter Isaac Alves
- Start date
- Tagged users None
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Straightened the feet and tightened the bolts a tad with a number 18 ratchet adaptor and wrench.
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Hardest part is going to be mounting this thing. I think it needs to go here vertically against the wall.
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Let’s do some glueing first and pipe threading to let dry while I figure out the mounting.
Hopefully a good seal
Hopefully a good seal
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Another hiccup…
Decided to use the heavy duty brackets on the UV hosting instead of the printed ones. The unit hosting is heavy. And it’s going to just get heavier with water.
Issue is I need the feet on the other side…
So the tubing comes from and leads toward the aquarium.
I don’t like loosening these bills since I’m not sure how the joint is sealed.
Decided to use the heavy duty brackets on the UV hosting instead of the printed ones. The unit hosting is heavy. And it’s going to just get heavier with water.
Issue is I need the feet on the other side…
So the tubing comes from and leads toward the aquarium.
I don’t like loosening these bills since I’m not sure how the joint is sealed.
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At minute 8 and 12 seconds the guy shows what is connecting the bolted parts:
I have the same UV albiet the 90 Watt version, seems to be working really well.
Mine is just sitting horizontal though beside my sump, so no mounting issues.
Mine is just sitting horizontal though beside my sump, so no mounting issues.
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Ok. Pivoted the mounting feet:
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Able to mount ballast inside of the CADE electronic cabinet plywood section door. And the cables are long enough to reach where I tubing I’m mounting the uv housing.
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For the 3/4” tubing attached to the manifold and the return nozzle.
Through the pipe cabinet:
Out to here:
And the return nozzle stop go on directly to the display here:
Through the pipe cabinet:
Out to here:
And the return nozzle stop go on directly to the display here:
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Ok mounted to studs. But only to the right side of the housing since the left side is unreachable for me. I’m feeling confident that my lag screws will hold this thing. It seems solid.
And in think it still is somewhat hidden if you’re not looking for it…
And in think it still is somewhat hidden if you’re not looking for it…
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I used 1/4-in x 2-in Black Epoxy Hex-Head Exterior Lag Screws with epoxy coated washers:
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Now to slip in the quartz sleeve with the tapered gasket and get it ready for water testing tomorrow.
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And of course my bad luck kicks in….
The quartz sleeve will not fit through the union housing. Is the union machined wrong?
@ChampionLighting can you guys send me a replacement part?
Here’s a video of the issue:
The quartz sleeve will not fit through the union housing. Is the union machined wrong?
@ChampionLighting can you guys send me a replacement part?
Here’s a video of the issue:
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I reached out to @ChampionLighting this morning and they responded immediately and that they are contacting Lifegard Aquatics. So big plus on the customer experience response time.
Hopefully I can get a new part soon.
Hopefully I can get a new part soon.
The tapered gasket is for the old-style endcap and you cannot use it with the new endcap. The new endcap should have a flat non tapered gasket preinstalled.
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It came with the flat non tapered gasket but not preinstalled. Although, the most recent video from Lifegard Aquatics shows the new housing, which allows you to change out the UV bulb while housing is full of water, does still show using both the flat non tapered as well as the tapered gasket -- they bookend the quartz sleeve and seal as well as hold it in place.
I have one of these myself. The tapered gasket is not used if you have the new endcap.
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I’ll need to reread the directions to make sure. Although in the meantime I can’t really test anything.
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Interestingly, in the comment section of the @lifegard_aquatics install video other users have gotten defective double sided threaded connectors that won’t allow the sleeve to slide through — same experience I’m having…
Video link:
Video link:
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